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S16MM SR 3 Pushed 1 stop


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#1 Sebastien Scandiuzzi

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 06:40 PM

Hello Everyone, 

 

I'm shooting a short this week on Vision3 7207 pushed 1 stop with ARRI SR 3 and would love any tips or helpful info regarding best practice (I'll of course be using a light meter, metering at 400). I haven't shot film since '92 so its been a long time, too long! 

 

As for exposing and dynamic range, I've read either 14 or 16 of useable stops, which is accurate in your experience? If 14 (or 16) is accurate, when pushing 1 stop will the dynamic range shift to 8 under and 6 over, similar to Alexa when adjusting ISO from 800 to 1600? Or will I loose 1 stop above middle grey = 7 under 6 over? Even if 14 useable stops is accurate, I would assume 5 stops over and 5 stops under is the limit if I wanted to save an over/under exposed shot? 

 

Thanks for your thoughts, I really appreciate it! 

 

Sebastien 


Edited by Sebastien Scandiuzzi, 31 October 2017 - 06:47 PM.

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#2 Samuel Berger

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 06:43 PM

Did you mean 7219?

And did you buy your camera from Rick?


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#3 Sebastien Scandiuzzi

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 06:46 PM

Hi Samuel, 

 

I meant 7207, thanks for the correction! We're renting from Koerner in Seattle, maybe it's subleased, I'm not sure. 


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#4 Karim D. Ghantous

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 12:18 AM

I don't have a technician's answer, but logically, if you underexpose by one stop, you're gaining one stop in the highlights but losing at least one in the shadows. I have heard different people say that for every stop that you push, you lose a stop of DR.

 

If you're pushing, you will lose the highlight headroom you would have got had you just underexposed. So it seems that highlights are the same, but you're losing some shadow detail. I wonder if it would be better to underexpose and correct the negative in the computer. Unless you want optical prints the whole way.


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#5 Robin Phillips

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 03:29 PM

you might want to consider dropping an LLD filter in and shooting 500T rated at 400 instead. theres no light loss with that filter, and it makes it a bit easier to match to daylight stocks. 250D is fairly grainy I've found on its own when rated/exposed per the box compared to 50D, so if you're diving into grain land may as well just do 500T and color correct and save the cost of push processing.


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