Hello every one. I shot this film in a Nikon r10 .
The camera hasn’t been used in 32 years so… as a result of these tests, I will get it checked as far as the lens and the mechanism goes. The thing is, I did expected to see some grain, but this is excessive right? The B&W is a reversal 200 ASA, and the color one is a Negative 250 daylight. I did use the auto exposure meter built in, in the camera. I shot it at 24fps and 59 fps (the b&w). Got it transferred at pro8mm and color corrected scene – to –scene.
So, if any one can share his or her ideas, pls do. I want to know what I did wrong not to repeat it again.
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Also keep in mind the difference between grain and noise. Some of this is likely CRT noise from the Millenium at pro8mm. It is a fairly noisy setup. For non-noise-reduced super 8, this does not look excessive. Super 8 is grainy.
I think the footage you shot, shows that your camera is underexposing by at least two stops on the 250D roll of film.
I bet your camera, has only ever had Kodachrome inside of it, and is stuck at a 40asa setting. Try to go by, if you live in L.A., or call Spectra Film and Video and try their Fuji Velvia 50D reversal. The people there are very helpful. If your camera is stuck on 40asa, the Velvia should come out looking much better, than the 250D.
For negative Kodak film stock, slight overexposure can actually reduce grain and a lower ASA negative stock will have less grain. You might want to try the Kodak Vision3 50D. I think it is one of the least grainy films available. If like I suspect, your camera is stuck on 40asa, the Kodak Vision3 50D will come out perfectly slighly over-exposed.
If you live in L.A. swing by Kodak in Hollywood, you can buy one roll of Kodak 50D for $17.16 If you're a student it's only $12.01 a roll.
Tri-X reversal is $13.50 and $9.45 for students if you buy the film directly from Kodak. There is a toll free number if you're not in L.A.
In regards to your Nikon R10. If you know somebody with really strong fingers, they might be able to loosen the exposure compensation dial. Those dials are notorious for becoming stiff when not used for long periods of time. I have the same camera and mine loosened up after I rotated it back and forth a few dozen times but when I got the camera, at first, I could barely get it to move.
Edited by Richard Hadfield, 06 July 2013 - 10:16 PM.
Thanks!! that is very helpful too. I will try those films stocks, I just have one more question for you. What do you mean that my camera is stucked in a 40 asa? I will have it checked...
And I am already trying to loosen up the wheel know that i know I can force it a little bit with out damage.
in your experience do you under expose by a 1/3 of a stop or you go all the way to 1/2 .....
thanks for every body's answer they are all very helpful.... much to do know.
Don't forget to push the unlock button when rotating this correction dial
Considering the reputation of pro8mm you should first shoot some standard film like Tri-x and have it processed at a different place. Saves a factor three on the expences. You might also do manual set exposure... Use a lightmeter and voilá. Do some clips with 1 and 2 stops up and down. Take notes.
Forgot to ask, the prices, were they for 16 mm rolls or 8 carts?
Those were the prices for Super 8 carts, without tax. The tax in California is around 9%. The three super 8 Vision3 stocks that Kodak sells directly from their Hollywood location, are all the same price $17.16 plus tax. For students Vision3 Super 8 is $12.01 plus tax.
Below is the Hollywood location's Kodak Motion Picture Film price list for 16mm.
The prices for 16mm direct from Kodak are as follows:
All Vision3 100' $37.57 ----For students $26.30
All Vision3 400' $146.18---For students $102.33
Tri-X 100' $26.20---For students $18.34
Tri-X 400' $99.56---Forr students $69.70
Double-X 100' $24.40---For students $17.08 (film code 7222)
Double-X 400' $97.60---For students $68.32
High Contrast Positive 400' $53.25---For students $37.27 (film code 7363)
Edited by Richard Hadfield, 07 July 2013 - 02:16 PM.
If the camera was stuck at 40 ASA, the 250D stock would be 2 2/3's stops overexposed, and it looks underexposed to me.
You are absolutely correct. That was a very misleading posts that I made about a possible problem with the camera owned by Marisa Aurora V.. If the Nikon R10 was stuck in the 40asa position it would severly over-expose the film. The footage Marisa Aurora V, posted looked grainy and under-exposed. So that was not the problem
A Nikon R10 I owed would only correctly exposed film rated at 40asa or 64asa. My camera might not have had the same problem. It still might be worth a try to see what happens with that camera with a lower asa film.
Edited by Richard Hadfield, 07 July 2013 - 02:34 PM.