Canon 814 Auto Zoom Electronic problem
Posted 14 February 2006 - 03:04 PM
I'm entering the Straight 8 film festival and I wanted to upgrade from my old Yashica Electro 8 to a camera that would meter the 64T correctly (and have a nice lens) without spending a bundle.
Maybe I'll just make a movie about clouds.
Posted 16 February 2006 - 02:36 AM
I'm going to shoot a test roll anyway...
Posted 16 February 2006 - 03:47 PM
Posted 16 February 2006 - 08:10 PM
i think single frame should be the same.
mine had same problem with batteries, i've done nothing and camera started to work... i think you can check batteries compartment.
Edited by mik, 16 February 2006 - 08:11 PM.
Posted 17 February 2006 - 05:44 PM
360 x 18 / 220 = 29,45 ----> 1/30 sec.
Ian, I get the same result with the cable release. And the motorized zoom works (as well as the battery check) so it's not something quite as simple as the battery connections - but I'll double check. I'm planning on sending it out to be fixed - either to http://www.ijmincorporated.com, or to http://www.super8stuff.com
Anyone have suggestions on a good camera tech?
Posted 03 June 2017 - 12:04 AM
This is an easy fix. I have fixed this issue many times before. There are three possibilities.
Send it to Spectra or Pro 8 and pay out of your nose. Or send it to me and pay a fair amount. I have fixed over 600 Canon 814 A's D's , 1014's and others These are really very easy to work on, the problem is time and money. I purchased junk Canon Supers and Nikons to do one thing, open them up and see how they work. That and sending away for every Canon Super, Scoopic , Nikon R8, R10, Elmo 600 and 1000 series top line and a few Bauer as well. They are not cheap,$36 includes shipping for OTC in Britain. I;m in the U.S. I have a real job but my hobby (nightly) is fixing Super 8 and 16mm cameras.
Spectra and Pro8 are excellent at what they do but they have overhead. I have my shop in my home. I offer advice, or how to's for the simplest repairs.
Most folks and rightly so are too afraid of opening up their cams as they should be. But if you have the right tools, are patient and can follow directions many fixes can be done on your own.
Posted 30 August 2017 - 11:13 PM
I might have to take you up on that, Kirk. I have an 814E that has a sticky trigger. When you press it down, the only way you can get it to stop is to hit the side of the camera. Also, the camera seems to be stuck on manual exposure, and the exposure knob doesn't work, so it's stuck on f/32 (?).
I also have a 518SV which doesn't seem to want to run, either when I push the trigger or use the cable release. The lightmeter and everything else works, though; if I could get the motor running again, it would be my new go-to camera.
Edited by Larry Wilson, 30 August 2017 - 11:14 PM.
Posted 03 September 2017 - 10:58 AM
The 518SV, I have four of them in my shop and just like the 514XL-S , Canon used the plastic gearing that over time breaks down due to the lubrication that was used. Over decades (and minimal use) the lubrication slowly softens the plastic, turns the gear yellow and the teeth begin to tear off . This then jams the adjoining metal gears to the film motor.
So if you have already checked off the electrical contacts and you have power to the auto zoom and meter, then I will all but guarantee you the 518SV is toast based off of my findings. I really like that camera, fits well in the hand, sleek and performs well when working.
Unfortunately, taking a "good" gear from another SV is doable but if any of the surrounding gears of succumbed to the softening from the lube also, then it's a futile fix.
On the 814E, the main issue (I have 6 with this issue) is with the introduction by Canon to use the magnetic release shutter. I have simply been altering the M.R to permanent open status inside the camera and resorting to using the on off dial as the my go to. This is where Spectrum and Pro8 , both extremely good are the go to folks. Would love to spend a week with them.
Posted 03 September 2017 - 11:02 AM
You can easily open the SV and rule out the soft gear as the problem. I think I shot a tutorial for a guy and will check to see if I still have it.
If it;s the problem it will stick out like a sore thumb, just look for the yellow gear with bits of teeth around it. If that is not the issue then it's a great thing because now you can go in and clean contacts , blow out any loose debris and lubricate the gearing with Silicone oil.
Let me know.