Thanks everyone, ideally Id like to make a projection print in 16, so when I say dupe I mean print.
CIN meaning color internegative.
The reason I ask if I could make an IN of a timed work print is because Id like to experiment with scratching and paint on the film, and if I were to do this with the negative, the printed image wouldnt be accurate to what I set out to do. Can this be done and would an IN of my cut print yield a good quality image when striking prints for future screenings? How about for scanning? Id like to also get these scanned for festival entries or to release on the web, but Id like to have a physical print to project as well when the opportunity arises.
I could splice my negative to match my print, no problem. I have a hot splicer though so Id be using cement.
Honestly Im just trying to figure out the cheapest way to work with what I have stocked up which is expired color reversal and b&w neg. Your advice is incredibly helpful, thanks a ton.
Heres just one last question. If I were to shoot on color neg, would I be able to get a timed print, work with that, and create a CIN from that for dupes instead of ever having to cut the camera original neg? Id like to try to take a negative cutter out of the equation, again simply for costs.
Id splice my own color neg, but the orange mask makes it hard to get an accurate representation of color. Would a CIN of my workprint degrade the image quality cvs working with the original negative?
Thanks David, I would be using reg 16. If I flipped the dupe would there be any change in image or anything like that?? What would be the difference in image, if any?
I could scan the negative separately, but I wanted to have a digital representation as well as a projection print, for the off chance that I may be able to screen the film as a print versus a DCP.
I jus wanted to get any advice before I begin splicing a project to what whats possible and what I should steer clear from. aesthetically Id prefer not to use a&b roll, I want the film to have a raw and rough feel to it, so splice markings and other artifacts are welcomed.
If I were to get a print of just the b&w negative, what would render the best quality for splicing? Perhaps I should keep this project only reversal based and use Tri-X? I just have a ton of 7222 laying around that I want to use.