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k-3 loading question


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#1 Jesse Anthony

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 02:15 AM

I got my k-3 the other day and I practiced loading it with some exposed film and i did it many times till i felt comfortable loading it, then when I went to load it with a new unexposed roll I couldnt get it to stay along the film loop guides will this effect the film or ruin it?

Also I put in the light meter battery adapter on the k-3 and when I turn on the light meter and set the film speed and iso speed the only time the needle will move is when i set the iso, it will not move when i set the aperature.
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#2 Laurent Andrieux

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 10:31 AM

I think the guides are for loading only. Once loaded they should "removed".
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#3 zrszach

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 04:51 PM

I think the guides are for loading only. Once loaded they should "removed".

The loop guides don?t just pop out after loading. They can be removed to prevent scratching the film. They?re actually kinda useless once you know how to make the loop right. The top loop should have about 4 perforations visible. The bottom loop about 7. As
long as the camera runs properly, exact loop size is not critical.

You can see how to take the loop guides out here:

http://www.k3camera....6mm-install.stm
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#4 Jesse Anthony

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 10:43 PM

ok thanks, anyone know why i cant get the lightmeter working?
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#5 zrszach

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 11:36 PM

ok thanks, anyone know why i cant get the lightmeter working?


Not sure... but I don?t know that I would trust the in camera spot meter. Quality control is kind of an issue with these cameras. Some cameras meters work great, while others may have been made faulty. Either way a spot meter is a cheap investment. I would just spend a little money and get one that you know will work.
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#6 Eric Steelberg ASC

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 11:52 PM

Can't be 100% sure, but I seem to remember that the meter only works while the camera is running, thus preventing the battery from dying while the camera is not in use.

I got mine years and years ago...I'll see if I still have the manual that it came with.
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#7 zrszach

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Posted 27 November 2005 - 12:00 AM

Can't be 100% sure, but I seem to remember that the meter only works while the camera is running, thus preventing the battery from dying while the camera is not in use.

I got mine years and years ago...I'll see if I still have the manual that it came with.


could be... :huh:

heres a manual:

http://www.k3camera....s/2004k3man.pdf
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#8 Clive Tobin

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Posted 29 November 2005 - 10:28 PM

Can't be 100% sure, but I seem to remember that the meter only works while the camera is running...


I have had a few K-3s apart for converting to crystal etc. and I don't remember there being any linkage between the meter circuit and the run button. The meter is on all the time the mysterious Russian dial is set to the Meter On position.

At the same time I don't think I've ever seen a K3 whose light meter worked properly. They are either dead as a doornail, wildly inaccurate, or take about half an hour to settle down to a steady reading.
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#9 Trevor Greenfield

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 11:24 PM

My K-3's light meter was dead until I bought a new battery for it. Ive now shot 1800' on the one battery and its still going fine. Ive checked the K3 meter against my Sekonic and its pretty accurate from 1.9 to 16, above that, the Sekonic maintains better but I hope to god I never have to use 22 for a shot.

The first thing I did was remove the loop guides from the camera ( I dont really trust too many things held together with string and plastic) and check to make sure there was no dust, hairs or anything else floating around inside the cam. I cleaned the prism and shutter and viewfinder to make sure if I see some smudge or something while on set its got to be on the lens.

Edited by Trevor Greenfield, 02 December 2005 - 11:26 PM.

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#10 Andy_Alderslade

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 06:33 PM

The question is, how do you remove the loop formers without loosing the footage counter.... which is genuinly usefull.
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#11 Trevor Greenfield

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 06:36 PM

They are seperate systems, the loop formers and the counter. The counter is controlled by the arm on the load side and doesnt connect to the loop formers.
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#12 Chris Keth

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 09:37 PM

The question is, how do you remove the loop formers without loosing the footage counter.... which is genuinly usefull.



They are completely separate systems. The loop formers can be removed by taking off the baffle plate and taking out the associated "plumbing." Here's a link on how one would do that. The link is actually about changing the film gate, but it's also how you get to the loop formers. It's not perfectly accurate, but you should be able to figure it out between their descriptions and looking at your own camera. The link is:

Loop Former Removal
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#13 beanpat

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Posted 05 December 2005 - 03:21 AM

I got my k-3 the other day and I practiced loading it with some exposed film and i did it many times till i felt comfortable loading it, then when I went to load it with a new unexposed roll I couldnt get it to stay along the film loop guides will this effect the film or ruin it?

Also I put in the light meter battery adapter on the k-3 and when I turn on the light meter and set the film speed and iso speed the only time the needle will move is when i set the iso, it will not move when i set the aperature.


don't forget that once you get the meter working properly the battery type is very important. my retailers will say: "here this is the same shape and voltage, so it should work" that is only true for digital devices. an analog light meter almost always depends on a battery designed for cameras or light meters. the difference is that those batteries have a constant voltage as they age, then drop of sharply when they die. while the more common batteries for calculators and stuff will slowly drop of in voltage as they age and throw of the accuracy of the meter.
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#14 Andy_Alderslade

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Posted 05 December 2005 - 06:09 AM

They are seperate systems, the loop formers and the counter. The counter is controlled by the arm on the load side and doesnt connect to the loop formers.


Strangly in my K3 the two are connected, the wire/string that engages the loop formers is connected to and engages the counter. When I went to remove the loop formers I realised the counter became useless, so put them back.

Perhaps if I adjusted it so the counter arm is always always engaged, and move it by hand when inserting a reel.

Oh well time for another go...
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