DIY Distro Box
Posted 30 January 2006 - 03:58 PM
Posted 30 January 2006 - 04:16 PM
Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:44 PM
Posted 31 January 2006 - 12:50 PM
Posted 31 January 2006 - 01:17 PM
Posted 31 January 2006 - 01:22 PM
We can't tell you how to do this on the public forums. It is way too much liability. The moderator would have to nix the posts. However, if you'll use the email just below, I'll give you the low-down. Put "Distro" in the subject line so you don't get dumped with the spam.
Posted 04 February 2006 - 02:32 PM
Another post voiced concern about overloading the shared neutral. That is incorrect. The two legs of the power are on different phases and the shared neutral will be fine if you keep the load balanced. When you build the distro, arrange your outlets in two banks, one for each 110 volt leg. When you plug in your lights, try to distribute the load more or less evenly between the two banks.
Bear in mind that the dryer circuit will be designed for 30 amps while the stove circuit is designed for 50 amps. You will have to remember these limits. "Today I am on a dryer circuit. I can only put 30 amps on each 'leg'." Maybe write it on the distro as a reminder for the less technically inclined?
One more idea: Since recent code changes have changed 220 appliances from 3 pin to 4 pin design, it might be hard to buy one pigtail for your distro that fits every house. Newer houses will have 4 pin plugs while older ones will have 3, etc. Stove 4 pin doesn't fit dryer 4 pin, etc. If you are comfortable working inside an electrical panel you could avoid buying extra pigtails by building your dispro with a plain cable (3 wire #6 gauge with ground = big enough for 50 amps) . You could open the panel, turn off the breaker for the stove, disconnect the wires for the stove from the breaker, and then wire your distro into the stove's breaker. (Of course you would connect all 4 wires. Two hots to the breaker, white and ground to the neutral bar.) Then you would turn on the breaker to power your distro. The obvious disadvantage is that panel work is intimidating and you have to remember to replace the original stove hot wires at the end of the day. One benefit is your distro circuits would be more reliably grounded than if you had just plugged into an old three prong 220 outlet. It would save moving the stove, too.
Final Caution: If all this sounds like Greek, please get help from somebody who understands household electricity.
Posted 04 February 2006 - 08:48 PM
Posted 04 February 2006 - 09:44 PM
I wouldn't build/use it if I had any doubt in it's construction.
If you were without doubt, you would not need to look for answers in this forum.
You really should NOT attempt to do this.
Hire an electrician. And tell the electrician he shouldn't try to shoot/gaff a movie without hiring you
Posted 04 February 2006 - 11:03 PM
Could I use this 3000 Watt Step Down Transformer (see link)? I have access to 60amp bates 3-prong to edison plug adapters (which I would plug into the trasformer), we usually use them to power 2K lights. Would this work for 2.5K?
Edited by Steve Zimmerman, 04 February 2006 - 11:06 PM.
Posted 08 February 2006 - 11:30 PM
As to the 2.5k HMI, the answer really depends on the voltage and phase requirements of the fixture. If 2.5K @ 120v then you could you could actually run 1 from each "leg" (2 fixtures). Figuring 2800 watts (2500 + 300 for the ballast)/120 volts would be 23.333 amps. Given 240V, 3wire (2H/1N) 30amp dryer plug, you could run 2 fixtures - without the transformers. Depends on the fixture power requirements.
Instead of getting a transformer, you could always get a multi-tap ballast (if not already installed) and re-wire for whatever voltage you will be using.
Posted 28 April 2006 - 06:36 PM
This item has a pigtail to plug which would fit European style 220v outlets.
You would still need to replace the pigtail or create some adapters to go between this item and the US kitchen stove outlet, dry outlet, etc.