Posted 21 February 2006 - 07:54 PM
Posted 21 February 2006 - 08:19 PM
Posted 21 February 2006 - 08:23 PM
Posted 01 March 2006 - 11:21 AM
Posted 01 March 2006 - 11:47 AM
I hate to do this, but bump. Anyone know how the 500T will be read in a Cosina XL40 cam that doesn't read that high. It looks like it may pick it up as the 250, but I'm not certain and I would like to find out before getting it back from the lab five stops overexposed.
The correct answer you don't want to hear: Buy a light meter or buy a real camera with manual ASA.
Do both, preferably, and learn the basics of photography. A 500 speed film exposed at 250 is not five stops overexposed. It's more like one stop. So even if 250 is as high as your camera goes, you're probably safe. The new V2 negatives can take it. Or even add an f-stop to the reading your camera gives. f5.6 given by camera, manually fix it to f8, for example. Here's a good primer well worth reading:
Posted 01 March 2006 - 12:57 PM
This is what overexposed 200T looks like:
Does your camera allow manual aperature control? If you don't have a light meter, I suggest using an SLR that does - dial in EI 100 for your 7217 and dial in EI 250 for your 7218. Fix the shutter speed for 1/48th or whatever your S8 camera shoots at 24fps (or other) and then ask the meter for an aperature and shoot that.
Hope this helps,
Posted 01 March 2006 - 01:14 PM
EI 50 shot at EI 25 is one full stop overexposed, EI 800 shot at EI 400 is one full stop overexposed etc etc...
I was confussed about this for some time myself. MAybe you already know this and if this is the case forgive me for the photography 101 lecture..
Edited by steve hyde, 01 March 2006 - 01:16 PM.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 01:47 PM
If you look at the specs for your 7217 it will tell you that you need to rate your film at EI 125 (2/3 of a stop over) to compensate for filter factor when using a hand held meter. If you are using the internal TTL (through the lens metering system it does it for you.
So what I said above might be slightly misleading so I will try to clarify:
If you want to overexpose your 7217 by one full stop in daylight with an 85 on the lens and you are using a hand held meter, you will want to dial in roughly an EI 50 or EI 64. For your 7218 you would select EI 125 for a one stop overexposure that accounts for filter factor.
The punchline of this story is really that you need to worry more about underexposure more than overexposure most of the time. The times you really need to worry about overexposure is in really contrasty shooting situations or super bright sunlight. This is all in reference to color negatives - not reversal films. Reversal films have less exposure latitiude and therefore are slightly more difficult to expose correctly.
Edited by steve hyde, 01 March 2006 - 01:52 PM.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 02:43 PM
As for the camera, I'm just learning at the moment and unfortunately broke. Once I get the money, I'll be upgrading and getting a light meter, but unfortunately it's just not possible at the moment.
Yes though, it does have a manual aperture control. I've been playing around with that and hopefully I'll be able to upgrade to something better in the near future.
Thanks for the advice.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 03:25 PM
I then would decide which way to shift the meter, and by how much. Lets say I decide to shift the meter 1 stop under. I would then shoot half of the cartridge that way.
At the halfway point, I would just lock the camera meter at whatever it read in auto mode.
Those two tests, even if you are unhappy with the results, will steer you towards the proper method for doing exposure, for your particular camera.
Ask your Super-8 lab how little they can charge you to do a one light transfer of one roll of film just for camera test purposes. They might have some type of special pricing just for such an occasion.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 03:29 PM
See if you can find a Beaulieu 4008ZMII that has been sitting in someones closet for the past 20 years. The batteries will be useless and it won't be operable, then send it to Bjorn Andersson in Sweden who has been rebuilding Beaulieu's for 30 years and ask him to service it. Then start your film testing after that. All this might sound like a lot of money spent, but really its not....in the world of cinematography that is...
For a 1000. to 1500. USD you could have a reliable Super 8 camera that accepts c mount lenses that is film tested by you and ready for serious shooting..
Edit: and RE: Alex - I would advise against "one light" transfers of your film tests. You will learn far more if you sit in on your transfer and work scene to scene with your colorist. The two images I referenced above really can't be compared because the grainy one (I was told) is a "one light" and mine is a "best light". For the purposes of film testing you want to know how good it can look and then once your learn how to expose your negatives well, you can work off of one light work prints with the option of color correcting selects after deciding which takes your are going to use in your final cut.
Edited by steve hyde, 01 March 2006 - 03:36 PM.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 03:38 PM