Jump to content


Photo

Aggravations of a Do-It-Yourself Camera Owner


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 David Sweetman

David Sweetman
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 757 posts
  • Student

Posted 20 May 2006 - 03:50 PM

So I bought an arri 16bl almost a year ago, bought it off ebay, battery didn't work, so I re-celled it myself. Since then I bought a Tobin Crystal Sync control for the motor -- the problem I'm now facing is that it looks like with the tobin control, instead of taking the old 9-pin type battery cable, the camera will now be powered by a 4-pin xlr type.

Here's my battery.

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

There are only two cables -- the red and the black -- feeding into the cable receptor, which is 4-pin, with a slightly off-set third and fourth pin.


Could it be possible to just slap on another connector that uses the other type of cable?
  • 0

#2 Luke Prendergast

Luke Prendergast
  • Sustaining Members
  • 491 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Victoria Australia

Posted 20 May 2006 - 04:31 PM

Yes, you just need to wire pins 1(-) and 4(+) straight through.
  • 0

#3 David Sweetman

David Sweetman
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 757 posts
  • Student

Posted 20 May 2006 - 07:20 PM

Yes, you just need to wire pins 1(-) and 4(+) straight through.


cool, thanks, that's what I'll try...do wire pins go on the ends of the wires? and do you have any idea where I might be able to pick up the parts? I don't even know where to start looking for that kind of thing (battery store maybe? yeah, i guess so, there's a bunch here in burbank)

Thanks for the help
-Dave

Edited by David Sweetman, 20 May 2006 - 07:21 PM.

  • 0

#4 Clive Tobin

Clive Tobin
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 402 posts
  • Industry Rep
  • Spokane Valley, WA, USA

Posted 20 May 2006 - 08:45 PM

cool, thanks, that's what I'll try...do wire pins go on the ends of the wires? ...


XLR style 4-pin connectors are made by Switchcraft, Neutrik and others. These are sold by real electronic distributors like Mouser (i.e., not Radio Shack).

If you can't find any we stock them and can sell for $5 each. Or we can make up a straight-through cable for I think $29. Soldering is required. If you haven't wired one before you might have trouble figuring out how it goes together. I don't know if the manufacturers have assembly instructions posted on the internet. The first Switchcraft one I put together I destroyed as nobody told me one screw was a left-hand thread.
  • 0

#5 David Sweetman

David Sweetman
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 757 posts
  • Student

Posted 20 May 2006 - 10:19 PM

woah, Mr. Tobin himself??

well I was looking around on the neutrik website and found this:

http://www.neutrik.c.../210_223221.jpg

I assume it's what I want - however, it looks exactly like the one already on my battery...is there a difference?

Okay -- it just occured to me you guys are probably telling me I only need to change the 9-pin connector on the end of my cable, instead of the one on the battery. I thought I'd have to change the one on my battery and then get a new cable. Is this what you're telling me, or am I just confused?
  • 0

#6 Charles MacDonald

Charles MacDonald
  • Sustaining Members
  • 1157 posts
  • Other
  • Stittsville Ontario Canada

Posted 21 May 2006 - 04:34 PM

David. Most of the electroinics distributors have 20-30 Dollar Minimum orders.

If Clive can make you a cable for 30 Bucks, you will be way ahead of the game.

And Did I mention that I find soldering cables one of the messiest jobs in electronics. Unless you are real experienced and LIKE that job you will be better off to either buy a ready made cable or ship the stuff to clive and ask him to build the connection you need.
  • 0

#7 David Sweetman

David Sweetman
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 757 posts
  • Student

Posted 21 May 2006 - 05:11 PM

And Did I mention that I find soldering cables one of the messiest jobs in electronics. Unless you are real experienced and LIKE that job you will be better off to either buy a ready made cable or ship the stuff to clive and ask him to build the connection you need.


Well, heck, I can solder, I mean there's not much to it; i've done plenty before and that's how I re-celled the thing in the first place. I really enjoy working on my camera, i guess it's like working on a car or something. And as long as I'm installing the crystal sync myself, it makes sense to do this myself as well. The difference between 5 and 30 dollars isn't too much, but the more I do myself, the more those savings pile up. I've still got to get the focal plane adjusted and my angineux looked at, and those, obviously, I can't do myself, but I've basically saved those costs by doing myself the things that I'm able to. If I end up with a solid and functional camera for cheap, well, then I figure I'll be even further ahead of the game.
  • 0


Glidecam

Willys Widgets

Rig Wheels Passport

Technodolly

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Opal

Abel Cine

CineLab

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

CineTape

Ritter Battery

Visual Products

Metropolis Post

Wooden Camera

FJS International, LLC

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

The Slider

Tai Audio

Aerial Filmworks

Paralinx LLC

rebotnix Technologies

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Tai Audio

Glidecam

Visual Products

Abel Cine

CineLab

Paralinx LLC

The Slider

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Ritter Battery

Aerial Filmworks

Technodolly

CineTape

Rig Wheels Passport

Opal

rebotnix Technologies

Willys Widgets

Metropolis Post

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Wooden Camera

FJS International, LLC