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Settings for a film


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#1 Stasha

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 09:43 AM

hi guys,
I am starting my first short film with xl2. I have 4 scenes in the bedroom, 1 in the bathroom and 1 in the hallway. everything else is outside in the park.

I did try almost every opton (except BW) and honestly didn't notice a big difference bettween manual and dummy set-up, so I decided to stay with a green button :)

anything that I should make sure before shooting?

I do plan to compete on a short film festivals.

what field mics do you recommend me and can someone in a very simple way explain the difference between 2:3 and 2:3:3:2 (also which one I should use?)



thanks :)

Edited by Sheeba, 25 May 2006 - 09:47 AM.

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#2 Jay Gladwell

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 07:02 AM

I did try almost every opton (except BW) and honestly didn't notice a big difference bettween manual and dummy set-up, so I decided to stay with a green button :)

If that's the case, you didn't do it correctly.

Watch these videos and learn how to use the manual settings!

http://www.gooddogpr...om/exposure.htm
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#3 Jack Barker

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 10:25 PM

Jay, Nice little vids. Unfortunately, in the most intriguing one - #5 - the speaker doesn't tell us what he did to get his color "interpretation" of the scene.
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#4 Michael Nash

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Posted 12 June 2006 - 12:46 AM

It looks like he just put the white balance on "daylight" or "5600, rather than "auto." The warm color on the boats is what you would expect from a daylight balance with a setting sun. Manually white balancing in the shade could give you similar results, but you might lose some richness in the blue sky at that time of day.
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#5 Michael Deitch

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Posted 13 August 2006 - 09:09 PM

Generally when I shoot on my XL2, I adjust the settings to get the cleanest picture. Meaning that I have normal looking color and proper exposure. In post, I adjust the look of the film. Always stay away from Auto as a rule, you end up getting shifting exposures and a mess of other problems. I've always said that the main difference between the XL2 and the DVX is the XL2 is more of an advanced camera, and really takes knowing your options in the camera. The biggest bit of advice I can give you is if you can, put the Gain to -3, it really makes those blacks nice and rich. I hope this reply didn't find you too late.

Edited by Michael Deitch, 13 August 2006 - 09:10 PM.

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#6 Stasha

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Posted 13 August 2006 - 10:11 PM

Any remote (wireless) mics that you can recommend me for this camera?

I checked that video, and honestly a lot of things were misleading, but I do recommend guide to xl2 on DVD (eBay so far best prices) and it's really don't to the point.
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#7 AshG

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 02:07 AM

Auto is a terrible idea for anything but a remotely mounted camera that has no operator. Post some grabs of the looks you are after and I will help you with some settings... the XL2 is not a point and shoot camera.



ash =o)
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#8 Sampson Rolen

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Posted 27 September 2006 - 11:22 PM

For wireless on a low budget...

I use this set-up:

Azden 200ULT - It is a dual lav transmitter and a singe dual channel receiver.
MA-300 adapter - I use this to run a Sennheiser shot gun (background audio)

This is the best mix I have used. I film two outdoor hunting and fishing shows, and also do high-end weddings and being able to capture sound from 3 sources (up to 4 - I still have one XLR port to use if needed) is priceless. The actors can be on lav's and you can have the shotgun as a back-up.

For cheaper yet - don't get the MA-300 and Sennheiser shot gun - the onboard mic works good enough to get the job done - just remember to get a remote for the XL2, because the onboard mic will pick up all the sound you make with you touch the camera.

Sampson Rolen
Timeless Media Inc
Minnesota
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