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Home Processing Agfa Super 8Movichrome


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#1 grantsmith

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Posted 05 June 2006 - 07:58 AM

Hi there,

I recently got hold of some old moviechrome and have decided to 'home process' it. I'm looking for interesting results rather than what I'd expect from brand new 64t ecktachrome.

I'm not sure if I should go for the Lomo or one of the stills home kits.

I quite like the idea of just thowing it in a bucket with lots of artifacts and seeing what happens.

As I'm not expecting much I'm really looking for the cheapest option possible.

so..

1) Can I process Moviechrome like Ecktachrome or is it more like kodachrome?

2) How much (preferably in sterling) am I looking at paying to process a roll

3) I've never actually processed anything myself. Is it best to experiment as I go along or should I try and do it properly with stills first?


I also managed to get hold of some K2 - can I home process this? Kodak said they couldnt do it - they could only do K40.

Many thanks for looking


Sorry. I forgot to add:

5) What is the best 'over the counter' kit to go for? What other equipment will I need?


Thanks
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#2 John Pytlak RIP

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Posted 05 June 2006 - 11:34 AM

Films like KODACHROME film have no dye-forming couplers in the film. So processing in a normal reversal or negative color process will yield NO image.

What process was specified for your old Moviechrome film?

Many older films will not withstand the higher processing temperatures of modern processes. Really old film often has significant changes in the image (increased levels of fog, contrast loss, increased graininess, etc.), even with cold storage (due to long-term effects of ambient radiation).
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#3 grantsmith

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Posted 05 June 2006 - 12:05 PM

Hi John,

Thanks for replying so quickly.

I can't seem to find any processing type on the Moviechrome box or cartridge. it's 40 asa and seems to be agfas rival to kodachrome. (does anyone know?)

I did (on a very remote possibility) e-mail agfa to see if they would still process it. Unsuprisingly I got no reply.


Cheers,

GRant
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#4 Richardson Leao

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Posted 06 June 2006 - 05:42 AM

i thought the moviechrome was e6. i have a roll also and i thought about processing it as e6 at 24C. you can get chemicals from Olexandr (www.geocities.com/russiancamera) or you could buy tentenal e6. i would get a lomo tank too, they are very easy to load (you can also get them from Olexandr or from ebay.

K2 can be processed as a BW negative (same times).

i thought the moviechrome was e6. i have a roll also and i thought about processing it as e6 at 24C. you can get chemicals from Olexandr (www.geocities.com/russiancamera) or you could buy tentenal e6. i would get a lomo tank too, they are very easy to load (you can also get them from Olexandr or from ebay.

K2 can be processed as a BW negative (same times).


btw, i am not sure about the e6 but unless somebody corrects me i'll still try to do it as a e6.
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#5 Charles MacDonald

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Posted 06 June 2006 - 08:11 PM

K2 can be processed as a BW negative (same times).

I thought I had to be processed as reversal to be sure of removing the antihalation stuff.
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#6 John Pytlak RIP

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Posted 08 June 2006 - 09:53 AM

I thought I had to be processed as reversal to be sure of removing the antihalation stuff.


Rem-Jet will come off in any strongly alkaline solution, like a prebath or developer. If you don't have proper rem-jet removal (prebath/water wash/buffers), the remjet particles may float in solution, and could become embedded in the wet film. Once embedded, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to remove.

Most labs offering "recovery" of really old films process the films as B&W negative. Any silver-halide based film will produce a B&W negative image.
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#7 grantsmith

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Posted 08 June 2006 - 06:42 PM

Why would you process at 24C? I've bought an E6 kit (6 bottle) to ready myself which suggests doing it at 38C (for slides). Would this not make the image more blue? Or is this something to do with moviechrome?

Should I process at 24 or 38? I'm starting to get more confused now.

As the film is so old should I overexpose or, to be safe, just use auto?

Will the e6 kit (patersons) get rid of the remgel?


Many thanks again. Your help is always appreciated.
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#8 Charles MacDonald

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Posted 08 June 2006 - 08:04 PM

Most labs offering "recovery" of really old films process the films as B&W negative. Any silver-halide based film will produce a B&W negative image.

I am not sure of the movie corome is a kodachrome clone, or is based on the old Agfa/Ansco processes, it is probaly an older process than e-6 - my thought on the Antihalation is that SOME european films, FOMA r-100 Black and white comes to mind use a SILVER anti Halo layer I think some of the fuji colur negatives did at one time also.

The silver layer is removed in the colour bleach, or in the case of the FOMAPAN when the first developed image is bleched before teh second developer. The makers data sheet on R-100 Says it CANNOT be developed as a negative. I would guess that there are other films out there with the same arrangement. The silver undercoat can be very effective as the light never reaches the film base to bounce around. BUT if the film is run through a B&W negative process it would stay arround and make the resulting film opaque.
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#9 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 03:10 AM

Hi there,

I recently got hold of some old moviechrome and have decided to 'home process' it. I'm looking for interesting results rather than what I'd expect from brand new 64t ecktachrome.


I think, you need take russian LOMO tank and make experiments with processing at E-6 chemistry.
Yes, The old films not hold high temeprature of E-6 processing, but, you need test this film with normal E-6 temeprature and low temperature 35 degree.

I make a some test with old films Russian Svema CO-50 D, ORWO UT-15, use E-6 chemistry and technology, temperature 25 C and have not bad result.
Yes, of course, this is not modern Kodak Ektachrome quality of picture, but, not bad too.

I think, you have one way of processing of old film - home process on spiral tank.
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