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#1 wally

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 04:31 PM

Hello, somewhere on the web I read an article about over riding auto exposure on super 8 cameras. I haven't been able to find it again, so any comments regarding this topic can be of help.

I'll be shooting snowboard scenes and I'm not sure if setting my Yashica Super 8000 Electro to "backlight" will be enough to not overexpose the take.

Thanks,
W.
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#2 Alessandro Machi

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 04:39 PM

Hello, somewhere on the web I read an article about over riding auto exposure on super 8 cameras. I haven't been able to find it again, so any comments regarding this topic can be of help.

I'll be shooting snowboard scenes and I'm not sure if setting my Yashica Super 8000 Electro to "backlight" will be enough to not overexpose the take.

Thanks,
W.


If your yashica does not have manual exposure, the backlight function may save you, but do you have to keep the backlight button physically pressed in, or can it be set to that position?

I don't know what film stock you will be using but if it's over ASA 80 you do run the risk of overexposure and/or the f-stop being so close to the f-stop being completely closed (general rule anything at f-16 or higher) that could compromise your results.

You could always add a neutral density filter of at least one f-stop, perhaps 1.5 stops would be ideal, again it depends on what film stock and ASA sensitivity you are shooting with. If I were shooting with lots of snow cover I would ideally want the backlight to open up about 1 2/3 stops from what the camera normally reads, but most backlight compensation is around one f-stop if I'm not mistaken.
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#3 Kirk Anderson

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 08:12 PM

I shot two rolls of 64t for a snowboard video on a very sunny day in Brekenridge Colorado. I took out my Gaf super 8 and my Sekonic Light meter that i use for 16mm and took a generalized light reading every half hour and tried my luck. All the footage came back georgous, especially when projected, the cheapo transfer i paid some guy to do for $30 off craiglist did the footage no justice. If you want to see some it's spliced into some of my reel on Google video.

http://video.google....934522873476864

As far as auto exposure goes, I've only used it with Black and white 100asa super 8 on a chinon PLX 132, and even on the slopes and on the beach the images didn't have a problem with backlight. Only when I didn't switch the indoor/outdoor switch did I ever have exposure problems.

Use Manual exposure and a Sekonic for 64T, use auto exposure for Black and white. My two cents.

kirk
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#4 Alessandro Machi

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 08:40 PM

I shot two rolls of 64t for a snowboard video on a very sunny day in Brekenridge Colorado. I took out my Gaf super 8 and my Sekonic Light meter that i use for 16mm and took a generalized light reading every half hour and tried my luck. All the footage came back georgous, especially when projected, the cheapo transfer i paid some guy to do for $30 off craiglist did the footage no justice. If you want to see some it's spliced into some of my reel on Google video.

http://video.google....934522873476864

As far as auto exposure goes, I've only used it with Black and white 100asa super 8 on a chinon PLX 132, and even on the slopes and on the beach the images didn't have a problem with backlight. Only when I didn't switch the indoor/outdoor switch did I ever have exposure problems.

Use Manual exposure and a Sekonic for 64T, use auto exposure for Black and white. My two cents.

kirk


The Yashica may not have manual exposure override. Did you happen to notice how much of a difference in f-stop readings you were getting between the cameras auto meter and your sekonic?
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#5 Kirk Anderson

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 09:49 PM

honestly Machi, I only use the GAF for 64t and I only use the Chinon for black and white.

Since My gaf doesn't have a 64asa setting the meter wouldn't be near the same as my sekonic. I guess you could do some calculations as to what the camera thought the ASA was then compare to what it would be on the sekonic, but I don't have that kind of time on my hands.
and..
My chinon doesn't have manual exposure, so a black triangle comes on if theres not enough light, but there is no numbers so I just point and shoot.

I'm trying to remember and I'm pretty sure my f stops for the snowboarding was around 11-16 split for most of the day. It was bright.

If your yaschica doesn't have manual exposure, it won't properly expose 64t, so you're stuck shooting black and white.....but hey, it's still pretty damn cool and you can just point and shoot...so it's easy on the fly...

You can get a cheapo GAF with manual exposure for $30-$50 off ebay, if you're set on shooting color. I dropped $240 on My sekonic light meter, it's a basic needle, not digital, but I love it and it's my best friend with my Bolex and K3. I got it new, but you might be able to find one used for cheaper, just get it calibrated.

Hope all goes well on the slopes, I always wanted to use my 16mm K3 for a snowboard video, but never had any sponsors to pay for the film and develop. Let me know if you need a 16mm cam, I'm trying to sell one of my K3s, and it would be sick for a sweet video.
sorry to ramble....
kirk
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#6 Alessandro Machi

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 08:11 PM

I only use the GAF for 64t and I only use the Chinon for black and white.

Since My gaf doesn't have a 64asa setting the meter wouldn't be near the same as my sekonic. I guess you could do some calculations as to what the camera thought the ASA was then compare to what it would be on the sekonic, but I don't have that kind of time on my hands.
and..


Is it really that complicated? It wouldn't hurt to know what your camera reads 64T as, would it? If your camera reads 64T as ASA 40, then you know when you add the 85 filter your camera is off by a factor of 40ASA vs 25ASA, or 2/3's of an f-stop overexposure, if you have a backlight function, and it adds one f-stop, you would be perfectly positioned for the proposed 1 & 2/3's shot overexposure while in autoexposure mode. I'd be curious to see how that GAF handles 64T outside with the backlight function on (assuming the backlight option is available).


My chinon doesn't have manual exposure, so a black triangle comes on if theres not enough light, but there is no numbers so I just point and shoot.

I'm trying to remember and I'm pretty sure my f stops for the snowboarding was around 11-16 split for most of the day. It was bright.

If your yashica doesn't have manual exposure, it won't properly expose 64t, so you're stuck shooting black and white.....but hey, it's still pretty damn cool and you can just point and shoot...so it's easy on the fly...

kirk


That's why it makes sense to do a test using the backlight function that the Yashica probably offers.
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#7 Kirk Anderson

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 10:57 PM

word homie... I guess I'm not as skilled in super 8 as thou. I shall bow down and memorize your web page.

I was just giving some advice I though might help our little wally out, I guess I should leave that to the pros.
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#8 Alessandro Machi

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 05:34 AM

word homie... I guess I'm not as skilled in super 8 as thou. I shall bow down and memorize your web page.

I was just giving some advice I though might help our little wally out, I guess I should leave that to the pros.


Two smart ass answers in a row, and you don't use your real name, bro.
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#9 wally

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:58 PM

Two smart ass answers in a row, and you don't use your real name, bro.



Anyway, the concern you all show is to be thankful.

So what do you mean: 64 read as 40 + backlight positioned dial = overexposure by 1 2/3 f?

Then turning the dial to spotlight would take one f stop, resulting in underexposure by 1/3f? IsnĀ“t that better than 1 2/3f off (overexposure)??

Or is that "overexposure" the correct setting for shooting with the 85 filter under bright sunlight on high contrast snow???

thanks,
W.
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