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aaton ltr 54 amphenol connector


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#1 rob spence

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Posted 03 September 2006 - 08:27 AM

Hello all,
Can anyone tell me all of the uses the amphenol connector can be put to...many thanks- Rob
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#2 Nathan Milford

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Posted 03 September 2006 - 12:04 PM

Hello all,
Can anyone tell me all of the uses the amphenol connector can be put to...many thanks- Rob



Basically Start/Stop and 12v Power whcih includes:

Inching
Intervalometers
Eyepiece Heaters

Among other, more obscure, things.
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#3 rob spence

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 11:14 AM

Thanks Nathan,

Where can I get a wiring diagram for the start stop connections on the amphenol as I'd like to make up a remote cable ( and can you buy amphenol plugs? )
Cheers
Rob Spence

Nathan,
Also can I power my video tap from the amphenol as it currently uses an external battery connection ( it's a pulnix aftermarket assist )
Cheers
Rob pence
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#4 Luke Prendergast

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 05:35 PM

The manual has pinouts.
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#5 Charles MacDonald

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 07:07 PM

and can you buy amphenol plugs?


Any of the larger electronic parts places can get them for you, you will have to figure out which version you need, try electrosonic, newark, or Mouser. Note that most of these folks have a 25-50 dollar minimum order so you may as well get more than one connector.


http://www.e-sonic.com/
http://newark.com/
http://www.mouser.com/

Oops better paste those URLs in right.

Edited by Charles MacDonald, 04 September 2006 - 07:08 PM.

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#6 Nathan Milford

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 09:35 AM

Rob,

Pin 1 - Minus 12 vdc
Pin 2 - TV Sync
Pin 3 - 2400 Hz
Pin 4 - Unused on LTRs, TC in/out on XTRs
Pin 5 - Plus 12 vdc
Pin 6 - Minus 12 vdc
Pin 7 - Strobe
Pin 8 - Start
Pin 9 - Plus 12 vdc

Note the redundant power on pins 1/6 and 5/9.

I'm not familliar with your video tap, but 12 volts is 12 volts and if your tap takes it, and doesn't pull too much current you'll be fine.

You should keep current draw from that connector (the amph9) UNDER 2 AMPS as there is NO FUSE between it and the power source. But, ultimately you'd want to keep it under 2 amps for all of the accessories you're powering off of the camera (microforce, monitor, etc..) because that'll zap an onboard battery super fast.

You can probably have ICE in the UK sell you the components as they probably buy in bulk.
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#7 rob spence

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 11:35 AM

Hi Nathan,
Many thanks for your time on this.
If i want to add a remote cable with a switch ...it should be wired to pin 8 ( start ) and presumably one of the plus 12vdc pins?
Again thanks

Rob Spence
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#8 Nathan Milford

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 01:39 PM

Hi Nathan,
Many thanks for your time on this.
If i want to add a remote cable with a switch ...it should be wired to pin 8 ( start ) and presumably one of the plus 12vdc pins?
Again thanks

Rob Spence



You'd want a rocker switch, one side intermittant (inch) and one side locks (run). If you short minus 12vdc (pin 1 or 6, which is actually ground and not stricktly minus) with start (pin 8) the camera will run. If you short the two with a 5v zener diode it will inch.
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#9 Luke Prendergast

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 05:57 PM

I've always been curious about the 'strobe' and 'TV sync' connections. Is one a frame-triggered output for eg., syncing a video tap? and the other an input for locking to a monitor? Just guessing.
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#10 Clive Tobin

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 10:51 PM

Any of the larger electronic parts places can get them for you...


I don't think this is true. It might be worthy of mention that these so-called Amphenol plugs are no longer made by Amphenol who discontinued them a number of years ago. They are now made by WPI (Wire-Pro) who took over the line, but this brand is not carried by most distributors and the contacts are sold separately only in $100 bags of 100 gold-plated pieces. Allied Electronics no longer has them in the catalog but can probably special order them.

We have some left over from our years of making Milliframe Controller cables for Aaton and might be willing to sell sets. We have the solder contacts but not the crimp ones. We have the straight shells and also some custom-machined right angle ones for use with the on-board battery. I can sell these with 9 fully loaded female contacts for $15 postpaid or $32 with the right-angle shell, approximately our cost some years back, they would probably cost more now. No reason to fear old plugs as they are gold plated to prevent corrosion and retain solderability.
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#11 rob spence

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 01:06 PM

Thanks for all the great information guys...
one more question for Nathan.
One of my ltr 54 mags has a squeeky light-trap ( magazine M2334 ) which makes it noisier than the others is it possible to cure this myself...I'm pretty good with mechanicals etc so I'm cofident to try.
Cheers
Rob Spence
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