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more frezzi questions


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#1 Lee Young

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 12:16 AM

I want to first of all thank every one who helped me out on the last post. My frezzi is giving me a few problems. I have the camera powered by a lead acid battery and it powers up fine. When I power it up the motor sounds like it is running but the object that spins (i think it actually drives the film) is not spinning. I have to give it a little help by spinning it with my fingers and then it spins fine. Is this a lubrication problem or something more serious? If it is a lubrication problem what kind of lubrication should I get? If it is a more serious problem How can I fix it? It indicates that it is running at crystal speed. Also my camera is not a reflex camera. I was wondering if there is a way to do a video tap in order to make it reflex. Also, this is a little off topic, but I've been wanting to do some outdoor tracking shots on rough terrain. What is the cheapest way of doing this. Thank you very very much!
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#2 Mike Rizos

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 12:47 AM

Hmmm, sounds to me like it needs lubrication, one or more of the belts is missing some teeth, or both. Is the shutter spinning when the camera tries to run? Can you itch the camera by hand easily? You probably need to open the cover on the battery side to access the belts and inspect visually.
Te camera uses three belts to relay power from the main motor to the magazine pulley, the shutter, the drive rollers, and the intermitent movement. Somewhere along the line one of the belts could be slipping.

If the camera hasn't been serviced in a while the lubricants could be drying up. I reccomend you don't try to lubricate the camera yourself-you're likely to make things worse in the long run. The old lubricants must be removed completely, the camera cleaned, and the proper amount of correct lubricant applied to specified areas only. If the main herring bone belt is damaged you can probably replaced it yourself, but make sure you remove every little morsel of rubber that may be floating around the camera. Visual Products has them for $45 and also the other smaller belts.

I've never heard of a reflex convesion or video tap addition to the non-reflex CP-16, which is basically the same as your camera
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#3 Lee Young

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 01:51 AM

Hmmm, sounds to me like it needs lubrication, one or more of the belts is missing some teeth, or both. Is the shutter spinning when the camera tries to run? Can you itch the camera by hand easily? You probably need to open the cover on the battery side to access the belts and inspect visually.
Te camera uses three belts to relay power from the main motor to the magazine pulley, the shutter, the drive rollers, and the intermitent movement. Somewhere along the line one of the belts could be slipping.

If the camera hasn't been serviced in a while the lubricants could be drying up. I reccomend you don't try to lubricate the camera yourself-you're likely to make things worse in the long run. The old lubricants must be removed completely, the camera cleaned, and the proper amount of correct lubricant applied to specified areas only. If the main herring bone belt is damaged you can probably replaced it yourself, but make sure you remove every little morsel of rubber that may be floating around the camera. Visual Products has them for $45 and also the other smaller belts.

I've never heard of a reflex convesion or video tap addition to the non-reflex CP-16, which is basically the same as your camera


I have not yet removed it like you said, but the part is now spinning, but it is weak at first. Is this usual? Should I continue to open the camera. Also, I didn't see the part on the visual products website. Do i have to ask for it by phone or email? Also, if I wanted could I shoot test footage at this stage? Im guessing not. Who could service this for me and how much would it cost?

Edited by Lee Young, 05 December 2006 - 01:53 AM.

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#4 Kenny N Suleimanagich

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 07:45 PM

My advice: after making this camera what you want(or will settle for) and jumping through those hoops, why dont you instead sell it and with that money get something that works and is reflex.
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#5 Mike Rizos

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 09:01 PM

I have not yet removed it like you said, but the part is now spinning, but it is weak at first. Is this usual? Should I continue to open the camera. Also, I didn't see the part on the visual products website. Do i have to ask for it by phone or email? Also, if I wanted could I shoot test footage at this stage? Im guessing not. Who could service this for me and how much would it cost?


It should not spin weak at first. The camera reaches speed in under one second.

First turn the manual inching knob by hand and see if it turns easily. This is the scalloped knob that you use to thread the film. I would then open the camera and examine the belts carefully for any missing teeth. Also check the belt tension. You should be able to push easily on the middle of the belt, about 1/8". If ok, run the camera with the cover open and observe the moving belts for any slipping. If ok, past this point I'm afraid I can't help you.

Ask for the belts by phone, they have them. But make sure you need them first.

If you can get the camera to hold speed by all means shoot a test.

Visual Products and Whitehouse Audiovisual service the camera. A complete rebuilt including paintjob goes for around $1000. Maybe you can bypass some of the services to get a cheaper price.
In the end it may not be worth spending more than a few hundred on this camera.
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#6 Lee Young

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 12:51 AM

I know this is lazy, but if anyone here is willing to do the repair for under $200 you've got a job. Of couse I'll pay for the parts once you've figured out what the problem is. I have checked with Whitehouse AV and there price is over $400.00. I would do it myself, but I can't get the damned back open.

1. some of the screws are stripped
2. I can't get the damned microphone port type thing off.

If anyone can tell me how to open it or wants a job please tell me.

here's the video I showed to whitehouse AV. It may help you to see what the problem is

http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.avi
http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.mp4
http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.mov
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#7 Kenny N Suleimanagich

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 03:03 AM

I know this is lazy, but if anyone here is willing to do the repair for under $200 you've got a job. Of couse I'll pay for the parts once you've figured out what the problem is. I have checked with Whitehouse AV and there price is over $400.00. I would do it myself, but I can't get the damned back open.

1. some of the screws are stripped
2. I can't get the damned microphone port type thing off.

If anyone can tell me how to open it or wants a job please tell me.

here's the video I showed to whitehouse AV. It may help you to see what the problem is

http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.avi
http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.mp4
http://www.nautilusrock.com/camera.mov

Interesting video, were you running the camera at 24FPS without film in it? I heard that's bad, do you, or can anyone tell me why? I've always been told not to do that but i have no clue as to why
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#8 Lee Young

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 04:19 AM

Interesting video, were you running the camera at 24FPS without film in it? I heard that's bad, do you, or can anyone tell me why? I've always been told not to do that but i have no clue as to why


yes. one was at 24 and the other was at its non-crystal mode, which is a lower frame rate. I've never heard that before. I guess it could be true.
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#9 Mike Rizos

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 05:56 PM

I've heard it's not ok to run the camera without film more than 24fps.

From the video it looks like the clutch drive belt doesn't have the correct tension or is missing teeth. I am not sure about about this, because I'm not a repair man, but that's what I think.

It's strange that the side cover screws got stripped. Make sure you use the correct hex key and it fits snuggly. It's probably metric, but it could be imperial(standard).
Here's what I would try:
Put a little WD-40 or even better lighter fluid on each screw, and let it stand for a few minutes. Place a punch on the head of each screw, and give it a good whack with a hammer. Now with the correct wrench try again. First turn the screw clockwise as if your trying to tighten it more. If it turns try to unscrew it. If not it's time to go to the hardware store to get drill bits and screw extractors.
Screw extractors work because the have reversed threads. They're cone shaped, wider at the base. You need to drill the appropriate size hole for them to work. This is very important. I would get 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4 extractors. Each should be stamped with the drill bit needed.
First try the 3/16" directy on the allen head bold. Give a tap with a hammer and turn it by a T-handle, slowly. It will bottom out and hopefully start unscrewing the bolt.
If that doen't work you need to drill them. Now remember, you only got the head of the screw to work with. Don't drill them too deep, as they likely to break as they go into the base(camera shell).
If that doen't work or the screws break off into the base you'll have to drill them out and retap slighly larger threads.
Make sure you use straight flute extractors, and not spiral as they were designed for weaker bolts and have a better hold.
While at the hardware store get a .050 allen wrench. This will be used to adjust belt tension if you ever get to it.
Good luck!!!
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#10 Clive Tobin

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Posted 10 December 2006 - 07:46 PM

I've heard it's not ok to run the camera without film more than 24fps....

I think this only applies to spring-wind cameras with a mechanical governor. With no film the governor takes almost all the power of the spring and can overheat.
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