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Refurbishing Shiny Boards


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#1 Michael Morlan

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 04:23 PM

Hi all,

I'm refurbing the two, used shiny boards I recently purchased. I've successfully stripped, used Bondo on the dents, and covered the "hard" side.

In working out how I'm going to cleanly apply aluminum leaf on the "soft" side, I realize that it might be time to discard that classical method in favor of a simple Lee Soft Silver Reflector (#273.) That will certainly be easier to apply, longer wearing, easier to remove, and of very similar effect on the set.

That choice would be fine if I was doing it just for myself, but I also have to consider rental and production clients. Soft Silver Reflector, affixed to a foamcore and beadboard sandwich, has become quite common on the set but what about using it on my shiny boards as well?

Any opinions from the seasoned pros? What do the DoP's think?

Thanks,

Michael
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#2 Jim Feldspar

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Posted 06 January 2007 - 09:33 AM

Hi all,

I'm refurbing the two, used shiny boards I recently purchased. I've successfully stripped, used Bondo on the dents, and covered the "hard" side.

In working out how I'm going to cleanly apply aluminum leaf on the "soft" side, I realize that it might be time to discard that classical method in favor of a simple Lee Soft Silver Reflector (#273.) That will certainly be easier to apply, longer wearing, easier to remove, and of very similar effect on the set.

That choice would be fine if I was doing it just for myself, but I also have to consider rental and production clients. Soft Silver Reflector, affixed to a foamcore and beadboard sandwich, has become quite common on the set but what about using it on my shiny boards as well?

Any opinions from the seasoned pros? What do the DoP's think?

Thanks,

Michael


Why did you cover the hard side? Would you never use it? I haven't used Lee Soft Silver
reflector but how does it compare to the aluminum leaf? Is there a difference in strength/
quality?

I'd like to make some reflectors. I worked at a rental house and was asigned the job of
redoing some reflectors with aluminum leaf and everybody laughed because those fumes
are so toxic that they said I'd lose a billion brain cells. (I'm just thinking now, shouldn't I
have been given a respirator or at least a mask? Wasn't smart enough to ask then!)
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#3 JD Hartman

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 10:38 AM

Please define the classic method? Whay kind of adhesive is used?
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#4 Michael Morlan

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 02:15 PM

Please define the classic method? Whay kind of adhesive is used?


As handed down to me by a senior grip/electrician:

Shiny Board Refurbishing

Tools & materials

? Gilding size ? hobby stores do NOT have this ? order @ guildedplanet.com
? 3M ?Spray 77? ? home builders store
? Acetone ? home builders store
? Aluminum leaf squares - eBay
? wire brush ? hobby or home builders store
? Scotch Brite pad ? home builders store
? Putty knife ? home builders store
? Bondo ? home builders store
? 6? Rubber roller ? hobby store
? hard-side foil - from where?

Both sides:

? Smooth dents with Bondo ? from home builders store

aluminum leaf side:

? Wire brush to remove existing leaf and most of varnish. (Consider spinning wire wheel.)
? Scotch Brite scrubber and acetone
? Mask edges with tape
? Mask edges
? Paint thin layer of varnish on whole board
? Let sit until lightly tacky
? Lay leaf with 1/2" overlap

Hard side:

? Peel off all foil from the paper first,
? Soak paper with acetone in sections, lift/scrap up edge and simply peel the entire section.
? Follow up with acetone and Scotch Brite scrub until clean and smooth.
? Bondo all dents
? Mask edges and yoke
? 3M ?Spray 77? to mount new foil
? Hard side reflector can be purchased at Matthews or American. Or, you can use Lee Mirror silver. Paper works best.

Gilding Basics (from a web-site):
Step 1: Prepare work area: Cover working surfaces and floor areas with drop cloths or newspaper. Use low-tack painters tape to mask any areas not to be gilded. Lightly sand the surface if necessary with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any blemishes.

Step 2: Prime surface: Remove sanding dust with a tack cloth and apply a quality primer like Rolco Burnish Sealer. This primer-sealer has been specially formulated for gilding processes and is available in 3 color tones - Red, Grey and Ochre. Rolco Burnish Sealer produces a high quality, smooth surface for gilding. Ochre, red or grey can produce fault hiding bases or color enhancing undertones.

Step 3: Apply adhesive 'size'. Size refers to the adhesive used to adhere the leaf to a surface. There are different kinds of size adhesive dependant on the finished look you desire. For most common gilding practices there is a choice of sizing available, water-based or oil-based. Apply carefully and evenly, working the size to an even film as much as possible.

Step 4: Testing your 'tack' - This is perhaps the most important phase in achieving a properly gilt surface, and determining the proper 'tack' time of adhesive sizing will result in the professional finish you are after. As your 'size' dries it naturally goes from a wet to a dry state. The proper time to apply your leaf is when the 'size' is not wet but 'tacky', just before it dries completely.

Step 5: Applying Aluminum Leaf

Surface leaf: Placing a book of leaf in your hand, carefully fold back the protective paper to expose the Aluminum Leaf. Lay the leaf onto the sized area and 'roll' out the leaf. Hold firmly and carefully. Attach leaf to surface.

Patent Leaf: Carefully remove a single sheet of Aluminum Leaf transfer paper and gently apply to your surface. Rub over the back of the paper with a gilder's brush, or gently with your fingers. Carefully remove the paper to leave the leaf adhered to the surface. Continue in this manner.

Step 6: 'Burnishing' the leaf -After the leaf is laid on, rub gentle and thoroughly with a soft squirrel or goat mop gilder's brush to insure complete adhesion.
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#5 Michael Morlan

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 02:34 PM

Here's a version updated by my own experience:

Shiny Board Refurbishing

Tools & materials


? gilding size ? hobby stores do NOT have this ? order @ guildedplanet.com
? 3M ?Spray 77? ? home builders store
? acetone ? builders store
? aluminum leaf squares - eBay
? wire brush or flat wire wheel ? home builders store
? Scotch Brite pad ? home builders store
? 3? putty knife ? home builders store
? 3? metal scraper ? home builders store
? Bondo dent repair compound ? home builders store
? 4? Rubber roller ? hobby store
? masking tape
? surveyer?s snap line ? home builders store
? 2x #2 grip clips
? hard-side foil - Matthews or American. Or, you can use Lee Mirror silver. Paper works best.

aluminum leaf side:

? Use wire brush or wheel to remove existing leaf and most of varnish. (Existing Bondo?d dents will have to be re-filled.
? Use Scotch Brite scrubber and acetone to remove rest of varnish.
? Smooth dents with Bondo ? from home builders store
? Mask edges with masking tape
? Mark masking tape and snap line every 5-1/8? over 41? (8 segments)
? Paint thin layer of varnish on whole board
? Let sit until lightly tacky
? Lay leaf with 1/8" overlap (read ?Guilding Basics? for tips & tricks)
? Secure snap line between marks on tape to serve as guide. Secure with grip clips.
? Lay first leaf with 1/8? overlapping frame edges.
? Lay subsequent leaves overlapping frame edges or other leaves by 1/8?.
? Last line of leaves will fit inside frame.

Hard side:

? Peel off all foil from the paper first.
? Soak paper with acetone in sections, lift/scrap up edge and simply peel the entire section.
? Scrub remaining adhesive with acetone and Scotch Brite until clean and smooth.
? Smooth dents with Bondo
? Mask edges and yoke with masking tape
? 3M ?Spray 77? to mount new foil
? Requires two people
? Adhesive dries fast so position paper, spray in strips, and smooth down from center outward while still tacky.
? Avoid stretching paper if possible.
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Opal

rebotnix Technologies

Technodolly

Metropolis Post

Visual Products