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Another K-3 Questions


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#1 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 09:48 AM

Hello again!

As a beginner of using K-3 I have some another questions.

1. Could I change lenses in my standard K-3 (I don't know if this model have M42 Mount) If so, what models of lenses could I get?
2. How to check If i have M42 mount in my K-3? And If I don't have M42 Mount where I could get one? It will fit from the old Zenit model?
3. Does every m42 lens fit to K-3 with M42 mount?
4. If I am goint to shoot footage at 48fps Am I supposed to change some exposure settings (like f, shutter speed etc.)?
5. What stock is the best for shooting in slow-mo at daylight?
6. I hear that I must load film in total darkness, heh, how to do this in total darkness because loading footage to K-3 is not so simple... Can I use some light? If yes, what kind of light?
7. When I just loaded film, how long I can keep this in the camera?
8. When I finished shooting whole reel, Am I supposed to reaload this movie in "total darkness" (like in load settings), and keep this in special temperature? (I'm talkin about negatives)
9. And the last one - could you guys give me some advices for begginer?

I think that is all for now:) Thanks for any answers and forgive me any mistakes because I am begginer at 16mm:) And forgive my language also. Cheers, Mateusz.
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#2 Nate Downes

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 11:35 AM

Hello again!

As a beginner of using K-3 I have some another questions.

1. Could I change lenses in my standard K-3 (I don't know if this model have M42 Mount) If so, what models of lenses could I get?

Yes, every K-3 you can change lenses

2. How to check If i have M42 mount in my K-3? And If I don't have M42 Mount where I could get one? It will fit from the old Zenit model?

Easiest way to check is to take a firm grip of the lens, and twist. If it unscrews, you have an M42 mount. If not, you likely have a bayonet mount

3. Does every m42 lens fit to K-3 with M42 mount?

90% of them

4. If I am goint to shoot footage at 48fps Am I supposed to change some exposure settings (like f, shutter speed etc.)?

Use the internal meter and you'll get proper exposure

5. What stock is the best for shooting in slow-mo at daylight?

250D is my recommendation

6. I hear that I must load film in total darkness, heh, how to do this in total darkness because loading footage to K-3 is not so simple... Can I use some light? If yes, what kind of light?

No, you can't

7. When I just loaded film, how long I can keep this in the camera?

Years if you really wanted

8. When I finished shooting whole reel, Am I supposed to reaload this movie in "total darkness" (like in load settings), and keep this in special temperature? (I'm talkin about negatives)

yup

9. And the last one - could you guys give me some advices for begginer?

Based on the questions here, you've skipped a LOT of knowledge you should have before you ever pick up a movie camera. My suggestion, put the K-3 down, and pick up an old Pentax screw-mount still camera with 3 lenses, and shoot some with that first. You'll learn more with that still camera than I can ever impart here. Plus, those 3 lenses would work on your M42 mount

I think that is all for now:) Thanks for any answers and forgive me any mistakes because I am begginer at 16mm:) And forgive my language also. Cheers, Mateusz.


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#3 Mike Panczenko

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 11:53 AM

Well, the K-3 only takes daylight spools, so you can use a little light and be safe.
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#4 Walintino Nording

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:10 PM

. I hear that I must load film in total darkness, heh, how to do this in total darkness because loading footage to K-3 is not so simple... Can I use some light? If yes, what kind of light?


once i had some "load in total darkness " 30 meters , after one week rock-and-roll prob to change in total darkness i arrived to a solution ;

go to the toilet , or any dark space ,
take out 2 or 3 feets of film out of the box than close it with the few feets out
put on the light and work normaly to load the film , once u have it load in , go back to the dark room
open the box and take out the spoon and fix it at its place ,

that s it
it worked with me with no problemes , and saved alot of time ...

w
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#5 Andy_Alderslade

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 02:22 PM

4. If I am goint to shoot footage at 48fps Am I supposed to change some exposure settings (like f, shutter speed etc.)?

6. I hear that I must load film in total darkness, heh, how to do this in total darkness because loading footage to K-3 is not so simple... Can I use some light? If yes, what kind of light?


Think about this, 48fps is twice the speed of 24fps, so that means its running through twice as fast, meaning that the film is only getting half the light than it would be at 24fps, that means you have to compensate by opening the iris an extra stop, which lets twice as much light through.

So for example if shooting at 24fps your meter reads f/4 and you switch to shooting 48fps you will have to open the iris up to f/2.8. If the meter shows f/11 for 24fps then open up to f/8 etc.

Always use a handheld meter, do not trust the internal exposure meter. Also note that unlike with a video camera, most film cameras (within the beginers budget) have a fixed shutter speed, so you can change the frame rate, but you can only compensate for the change using the iris. Most film cameras have a shutter speed of around 1/48th or 1/50 of a second (an opening of 180 degrees).


The film has to be loaded in subdued darkness that will mean that the first 2 seconds or so will be flashed but loading it properly (with just enough light that you can see what you're doing) will ensure it won't go wrong forcing you to open it up and fix it in the middle of a film. Your living room with the curtains drawn should be enough.

You should of course practice on some waste film (a lab or film retailer may have some)

Incidentaly the other day i had to load an Arri ST in the middle of a train station, I knew I was having the 500 speed film push processed by a stop, making it 1000 speed (very light sensitive), I held my coat over me and the open film to protect it from direct light, but if was absolutly fine.

The pulling 2 or 3 feet out of a closed cartidge/can sounds a good idea, but in the worst case scenario the lid of the container may bend or damage the film, so run that piece of film through the mechanism, before you actually shoot anything.
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#6 Walintino Nording

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 03:30 PM

QUOTE


3. Does every m42 lens fit to K-3 with M42 mount?

90% of them



is it as simple as seeing in the viewfinder if the lens is ok , or you should make a test ?

txxs

w

Edited by Walintino Nording, 11 January 2007 - 03:30 PM.

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#7 Charles MacDonald

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 09:13 PM

QUOTE
3. Does every m42 lens fit to K-3 with M42 mount?

90% of them
is it as simple as seeing in the viewfinder if the lens is ok , or you should make a test ?

Ones that might goive you problems are generaly "special lenses" wide angles, mirror lens, ones that require you to lock up the mirror in a still camera, and so on. If the lens does not stick out more than 1/4 inch behind the threads, and it is clear in the finder you should be fine. Note that Some of the later Pentax lenses omited the Auto/manual switch on the back. Thise will give you trouble on a K-3 or on VERY old Pentax cameras. Some of them have a little pin that will lock the A/M switch if it the lens is off the Camera, they were designed for the Pentax Spotmatic F. I have heard of folks getting those stuck in the mount of a Russian Still Camera. I don't know if the offending screw hole is also in teh K-3 Mount.


Look on e-bay for a Pentax Spotmatic or SP500, Sp1000 (all actually the same camera, although the 1000th of a second speed is not marked on the SP500. If you can take good pictures with a lens on the SP-500 you are unlikely to have problems with the K-3 as LONG AS the lens can stop down manualy.
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#8 Richardson Leao

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 04:04 AM

Ones that might goive you problems are generaly "special lenses" wide angles, mirror lens, ones that require you to lock up the mirror in a still camera, and so on. If the lens does not stick out more than 1/4 inch behind the threads, and it is clear in the finder you should be fine. Note that Some of the later Pentax lenses omited the Auto/manual switch on the back. Thise will give you trouble on a K-3 or on VERY old Pentax cameras. Some of them have a little pin that will lock the A/M switch if it the lens is off the Camera, they were designed for the Pentax Spotmatic F. I have heard of folks getting those stuck in the mount of a Russian Still Camera. I don't know if the offending screw hole is also in teh K-3 Mount.
Look on e-bay for a Pentax Spotmatic or SP500, Sp1000 (all actually the same camera, although the 1000th of a second speed is not marked on the SP500. If you can take good pictures with a lens on the SP-500 you are unlikely to have problems with the K-3 as LONG AS the lens can stop down manualy.

hi there,

hopefully, this will be functional tonight. I shot a short w/ k3 and a kinor, i used several stocks and several speeds, (descriptions will come soon). most of the colours stocks w/ the k3 were shot w 48fps.

Anyway, have the clips but it's all under construction. Go to: http://jcsmr.anu.edu...o/dogheart.html

several k3 shots (that i developed myself)
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#9 Walintino Nording

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 08:13 AM

Ones that might goive you problems are generaly "special lenses" wide angles, mirror lens, ones that require you to lock up the mirror in a still camera, and so on. If the lens does not stick out more than 1/4 inch behind the threads, and it is clear in the finder you should be fine. Note that Some of the later Pentax lenses omited the Auto/manual switch on the back. Thise will give you trouble on a K-3 or on VERY old Pentax cameras. Some of them have a little pin that will lock the A/M switch if it the lens is off the Camera, they were designed for the Pentax Spotmatic F. I have heard of folks getting those stuck in the mount of a Russian Still Camera. I don't know if the offending screw hole is also in teh K-3 Mount.
Look on e-bay for a Pentax Spotmatic or SP500, Sp1000 (all actually the same camera, although the 1000th of a second speed is not marked on the SP500. If you can take good pictures with a lens on the SP-500 you are unlikely to have problems with the K-3 as LONG AS the lens can stop down manualy.



YES ! this is the first time i understand how s M42 + K3 .
tkx Andy and Charles

Edited by Walintino Nording, 12 January 2007 - 08:15 AM.

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#10 Andres Pardo aka Gral Treegan

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:24 PM

6. I hear that I must load film in total darkness, heh, how to do this in total darkness because loading footage to K-3 is not so simple... Can I use some light? If yes, what kind of light?
7. When I just loaded film, how long I can keep this in the camera?



hi!
im not a DP but i use a k3 really a lot. of course you can load the camera in daylight, but try to load in the darkest place you found, like in your car, van or your room. i always load in light and after 3-4 seconds of film runing everything looks fine. the same for unload.

about the lenses i recomend to buy a ring adapter for k3 to mount pentacon six lenses. i buy one from olex, a guy in ukraine, and work fantastic and the pentacons six lenses are cheap and brings good image quality.

http://geocities.com/russiancamera/
this is olex page, ask him for a ring adapter for pentacon 6 four your k3 m42 screw mount

have fun with k3!! play with speed ramps, are really good in this clock work camera.
Gral. Treegan
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#11 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 08:15 AM

Hello!

Thanks for so many comments, they're very helpful for me. When I wrote this post I have not this camera with myself, but yesterday I saw it, test it etc. So, it's K-3 with M42. Got to shoot some footage first at the basic Lens that came up with K-3. It's a little bit wideangle (17 is not so much, but it's not so bad for me) so it will meet my exceptations. Ah, one thing, when I push the run button, camera was working for 5 seconds, and then, stopped. It's strange for me bacuse now If I press the run button nothing happens at all and It hasn't film loaded at the camera. Ok, that's all If I would have any problems I would write it here baceuse I don't want to start a new topic.

Cheers for everyone and thanks for comments!
Mate.
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#12 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 12:12 PM

Hello!

Thanks for so many comments, they're very helpful for me. When I wrote this post I have not this camera with myself, but yesterday I saw it, test it etc. So, it's K-3 with M42. Got to shoot some footage first at the basic Lens that came up with K-3. It's a little bit wideangle (17 is not so much, but it's not so bad for me) so it will meet my exceptations. Ah, one thing, when I push the run button, camera was working for 5 seconds, and then, stopped. It's strange for me bacuse now If I press the run button nothing happens at all and It hasn't film loaded at the camera. Ok, that's all If I would have any problems I would write it here baceuse I don't want to start a new topic.

Cheers for everyone and thanks for comments!
Mate.


If you load of spring of full power and camera run of 5 second at speed 24 fps and stopped ( jam), you need repair of camera.
I think, the cogs of base cog-wheel jam on rollers.
Or the gears of transmission have problem.

Edited by Olex Kalynychenko, 13 January 2007 - 12:13 PM.

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#13 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 06:15 PM

Hmm... but I need to repair by myself? ehh... I just buy it and now I gotta to repair it... If I must fix this by myself so, how to do this? thnx for comments
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#14 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:06 PM

Hmm... but I need to repair by myself? ehh... I just buy it and now I gotta to repair it... If I must fix this by myself so, how to do this? thnx for comments


and one thing - If I would check those gears and cogs ( I will do this tomorrow ) could I run camera again without film? Just for check that is it still work fine. Cheers!
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#15 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 04:45 AM

and one thing - If I would check those gears and cogs ( I will do this tomorrow ) could I run camera again without film? Just for check that is it still work fine. Cheers!


Yes, of course,
At first, You need test of mechanism of camera without film.
If the mechanism without film will jam, you need repair of mechanism.
If the mechanism will work without film fine and will work with film bad, you need study of procedure of film loading at details and if you do all correct , will need adjust of position of wheel-cogs and rollers.
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#16 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:39 PM

Hello!
I just arrived to my home. I've noticed that my brother wanted to disassemble my K-3. He thought that he can't still remove the entire baffle plate so he started to unscrew one of two screws holding plastic "reel". It's showed up this image (it's actual my K-3) marked with red color. The spring which was in this screw shooted up with the little flat screw.I don't know what to do now... I think that this screw has a reverse thread so to fix this I must a remove the entire baffle plate. Is it right?

Posted Image

There goeas another problem:

Posted Image

This cover doesn't perfect fit the main body. I don't think that is ok... how to fix this?

And the lost one question is about how to remove this entire baffle plate. I have unscrewed all these 6 bolds and two for the film cutter, but what else Am I supposed to unscrew? on k-3 site they write that I must remove "plastic guide right below the drive sprocket (pull off)". But I don't know what it is exaclty. Could anyone mark for me what it is? I mean this plastic guide and the drive sprocket. And on the first picture I have marked on the green color one thing which has two-hard accesible bolds and I must loose them. How to do this? I must remove something to get good access for them?

That's all. Sorry for my amatour questions but I don't want to hurt my K-3 anymore:) I just want to fix this jam and start to work with this camera (I Just recieved a FOMAPAN b/w film and can't wait to shoot :) ) and I am not so good at mechanical technics:). And sorry for my bad english as always. Cheers for anyone that could help!
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#17 NCSProducts

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 05:17 PM

Hello!
I just arrived to my home. I've noticed that my brother wanted to disassemble my K-3. He thought that he can't still remove the entire baffle plate so he started to unscrew one of two screws holding plastic "reel". It's showed up this image (it's actual my K-3) marked with red color. The spring which was in this screw shooted up with the little flat screw.I don't know what to do now... I think that this screw has a reverse thread so to fix this I must a remove the entire baffle plate. Is it right?

Argh! Those screws have a reverse thread. If you try to unscrew them, they break off. :(

Then you gotta hope you can unscrew the little broken piece still left.
The good news: it's better to break the feed side then the takeup side.
It will still run with feed side broken. :)

You've got the plastic piece circled. It's towards the right. Pull it back. It will come off, unless someone glued it in place.

Once you've pulled it off, you can loosen the two setscrews holding the main drive sprocket.

Read the instructions carefully and be warned, it is easier to take cameras apart then put them back together. Much easier.
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#18 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 22 January 2007 - 02:15 PM

OK so I just removed the entire baffle plate. It's look like this:

Posted Image

I've checked the cogs and they are rotating and i dont noticed any mistakes with mechanism(their movement is limited... I dont know if this is ok)
So what Am I supposed to do know? what could be wrong? Thx for anyone that could help me.
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#19 Mateusz Kukla

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Posted 23 January 2007 - 07:58 AM

Ehh I still can't figure out this problem. I can't open front of the K-3 because those 3 screws are so hard to remove. When I turning the wind handle while pressing down the trigger camera work fine, ale gears are moving etc. When I wind it without pressing down the trigger, gears are moving too, and then, when I am pressing the trigger - nothing happens... Could I run camera without this? I mean manually wind camera while pressing down the button? Maybe battery is broken? does it make sense for running or only for lightmeter? I think that footage would be no-synchronized with fps :( . Thanks again for any help.

Edited by Mateusz Kukla, 23 January 2007 - 08:00 AM.

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#20 Andy_Alderslade

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Posted 23 January 2007 - 11:59 AM

Ehh I still can't figure out this problem. I can't open front of the K-3 because those 3 screws are so hard to remove. When I turning the wind handle while pressing down the trigger camera work fine, ale gears are moving etc. When I wind it without pressing down the trigger, gears are moving too, and then, when I am pressing the trigger - nothing happens... Could I run camera without this? I mean manually wind camera while pressing down the button? Maybe battery is broken? does it make sense for running or only for lightmeter? I think that footage would be no-synchronized with fps :( . Thanks again for any help.


When K3's jam the cogs at the front of the camera need nudging, and the camera usually springs back into action for another few years.

To access those cogs you have to remove the front of the camera (the surface that holds the lens mount), where the screw covers are hidden by the metal label finish. Carefully run a knife underneath it to unstick it.

http://www.k3camera.com/k3/k3front.stm
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