The Kino ballasts are high-frequency flicker-free ballasts that help output too -- the Kino tubes themselves are not brighter than other tubes. They do come in a protective plastic sleeve so if the tube shatters, you don't get glass everywhere. I do find that any tube closer to daylight-balance seems brighter than one closer to tungsten balance, although I've never tested this specifically.
If any large number of tubes are needed, generally productions will opt for something cheaper to buy.
That other thread had some links and the general sense that a do it yourself project could be
done because it's possible to buy high frequency ballasts which will help with flicker although
I'll have to find out if they'll help the output at all.
I've seen clear plastic protective sleeves for sale at the store and they're not terribly expensive
plus they'd be a one time purchase unlike the lights, even though they seem to last pretty long
so replacing tubes wouldn't be as much of an issue as needing to replace blue dipped photofloods.
It seems to me that if the Kino tubes aren't brighter inherently, then I probably could find some
decent tubes for less money. Right now I'm shooting mostly video (Mini-DV) and there seem to be
a fair number of tubes with CRIs above 95 and good color temperatures.
Is flicker more of a problem when shooting film than shooting video? I beleve that flicker is
caused by different frames receiving unequal amounts of light. I like to shoot 24P at 1/48th of
a second which I guess is pretty close to film at 24 f.p.s. and 1/50th sec. exposure.
with Kinos one also is paying for a nice film friendly means of attaching lights to stands or rigging and ballasts that are dimmable, each bulb may be switchable, and may be DMX ready. it is not just abvout the bulbs.
One could get the Optima 32's or 50's, or Chroma 32's or 50's, and there is a comapny called Movietone that makes color correct bulbs as well. There are probably others too.
Hey David, don't forget that the saftey coating on some flourescent bulbs not only keeps the glass from shattering all over, it also keeps the detrimental health affects to a minimum by keeping poisonious gases and phosphorous chemicals contained.
Yes, but if I have to use a more unwieldy light that I can afford rather than have none at all
that should be okay. Thanks for the specific recommendations. I'm going to check them out.
As far as minimizing detrimental health effects, it mentions on the Kino site that single tubes
used handheld if desired. Would this be unwise with other tubes and would it depend on
contact with chemicals and/or hotter surfaces? Thanks.
I have used or tried kinos on normal fixtures and the tungsten tubes went magenta and loss a lot of output...have seen in in some other cases so i dont try it to much....
I'm going to research tube and ballast combinations and see what I can get.