Jump to content


Photo

arri 2c and sound


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 Jizhong Zhang

Jizhong Zhang
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 27 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Los Angeles

Posted 04 March 2007 - 02:30 PM

I have a arri 2c I want use it to make my next movie but it`s so noise can I make it quietly?does it need this? I have it but It seem not fit 2c because the motor of 2c is in the button~and It`s a heavy metal case It`s not a good idear to use it .is anyone has good idear?

Edited by nonpop, 04 March 2007 - 02:32 PM.

  • 0

#2 David Mullen ASC

David Mullen ASC
  • Sustaining Members
  • 19759 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Los Angeles

Posted 04 March 2007 - 02:35 PM

I have a arri 2c


We seem to have a lot of new members who miss the first instructions listed when registering: use a real first and last name. "nonpop", you can go to My Controls and edit your Display Name to a real first and last name. Thanks.
  • 0

#3 Dan Salzmann

Dan Salzmann
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1143 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Paris, France

Posted 05 March 2007 - 11:53 AM

This is a very good camera but not made for sound work.
Can you shoot with long lenses further from the actors?
Get a sound barney or try leather jackets.
  • 0

#4 Mark Dunn

Mark Dunn
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2420 posts
  • Other
  • London

Posted 05 March 2007 - 12:23 PM

You can't use the blimp with the handgrip motor, apparently.
  • 0

#5 chuck colburn

chuck colburn
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 389 posts
  • Other
  • orygun

Posted 05 March 2007 - 12:57 PM

You can't use the blimp with the handgrip motor, apparently.


Yeah you need to mount the camera on a flat base. If you already have the camera and the blimp you can find flat bases on ebay. Some times they come with a crystal sync motor if you don't already have one.
  • 0

#6 Hal Smith

Hal Smith
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2280 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • OKC area

Posted 05 March 2007 - 02:07 PM

I have a arri 2c I want use it to make my next movie but it`s so noise can I make it quietly?does it need this? I have it but It seem not fit 2c because the motor of 2c is in the button~and It`s a heavy metal case It`s not a good idear to use it .is anyone has good idear?

Look in the 2C forum for a thread titled "Arri 120 Blimp". There's some good information on Arri 2C blimps there.
  • 0

#7 Jizhong Zhang

Jizhong Zhang
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 27 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Los Angeles

Posted 18 March 2007 - 12:07 PM

Look in the 2C forum for a thread titled "Arri 120 Blimp". There's some good information on Arri 2C blimps there.



if Don`t use Blimp is there any way? can we reconfigure the camera?
  • 0

#8 GeorgeSelinsky

GeorgeSelinsky
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 718 posts

Posted 03 May 2007 - 11:05 PM

I made a feature film with an Arri IIc. There is no way to get it quiet unless you get a very heavy blimp for it. Forget it, you can hear it in the next room and even on the next floor!

The only way I did it was to re-dub all the audio, dialog, moves, footsteps, ambience, you name it. It was an interesting but extremely time consuming process.

Check this out: http://www.geocities...ky/nonsync.html
  • 0

#9 James Steven Beverly

James Steven Beverly
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 4199 posts
  • Director
  • El Paso, Texas

Posted 04 May 2007 - 01:46 AM

You could always try removing the camera noise with Cool Edit, but from what I understand, (I've never tried it on a 2c) the Arri sound is in a bad part of the range and you may have some trouble. Buy a blimp and a flatbase with a crystal sync motor and be done with it if you're going to make this your sync camera. There really is no alternitive for you. You already own the camera so it's still a lot cheaper than buying a BL-! or BL-2. B)
  • 0

#10 Tim Carroll

Tim Carroll
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2165 posts
  • Other
  • Chicago, Illinois

Posted 06 May 2007 - 10:09 PM

I made a feature film with an Arri IIc. There is no way to get it quiet unless you get a very heavy blimp for it. Forget it, you can hear it in the next room and even on the next floor!

The only way I did it was to re-dub all the audio, dialog, moves, footsteps, ambience, you name it. It was an interesting but extremely time consuming process.

Check this out: http://www.geocities...ky/nonsync.html


George,

That is a great article, thanks for sharing your experience. Anyplace where we can see the finished film?

-Tim
  • 0

#11 Hal Smith

Hal Smith
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2280 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • OKC area

Posted 07 May 2007 - 09:45 AM

Reference is made in the links to a dead dubbing booth. The best inexpensive sound adsorbing material I've found is the fiberglass insulated "duct board" that air conditioning people use to fabricate ducts and plenums. It's designed to be sound absorbant but only costs around $40 for a 5'X10' sheet. It's made from a dense yellow fiberglass product, about one inch thick, and foil backed. It glues easily to walls and/or flats. There's a more expensive grade where the fiberglass has been dyed black with a material that helps to slow down any shedding (which isn't really a problem with the yellow version). I've soundproofed a bunch of studios over the years with these products - saving about 90% on soundproofing over buying Sonex, etc. If you go this route, line every square inch of the walls with it, try to cover the ceiling (if you have a dropped ceiling, cut the duct board into ceiling tile sized pieces), and use a plush carpet on a thick pad on the floor. For esthestics you can stretch burlap over the surface to create a more finished look. DON'T glue the burlap to the board's surface, that interferes with the board's sound adsorbing quality.

Also, turn the A/C off when recording or use the duct for it's intended purpose and build a custom sound baffle duct out of the board - that's its design purpose.

Baffle Design
-----------------------------------------
I-------- I---------I---------I
I----I----I----I----I----I----I
-----I---------I---------I----
-----------------------------------------

(ignore the dashes between the "I"'s, the Forum formatting won't let you insert spaces.

The "I"'s are squares of duct board constructed
out of two pieces glued back to back and attached to the side
walls with right angle brackets. A ten foot long section with
baffles every foot will suck up a lot of A/C noise - but if the A/C system has a lot of low frequency "rumble" in it you'll just have to turn it off regardless.
  • 0


Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Visual Products

Rig Wheels Passport

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

rebotnix Technologies

CineLab

The Slider

Willys Widgets

Metropolis Post

Paralinx LLC

Opal

Glidecam

Abel Cine

Ritter Battery

Technodolly

Aerial Filmworks

Wooden Camera

CineTape

FJS International, LLC

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Tai Audio

Willys Widgets

CineLab

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

CineTape

FJS International, LLC

Abel Cine

Opal

Metropolis Post

Aerial Filmworks

Rig Wheels Passport

Tai Audio

The Slider

Ritter Battery

rebotnix Technologies

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Paralinx LLC

Visual Products

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Technodolly

Wooden Camera

Glidecam