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Morse G3 home processing. Emulsion out or in?


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#1 Joseph Winchester

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Posted 04 March 2007 - 04:41 PM

I've processed a few rolls of 16mm with mixed results in a Morse G3 tank. I have noticed some rolls come out better than others as far as the 'printing on itself' effect. I imagine this has something to do with whether the emulsion is in towards the spool or outwards from the spool.

To you guys and gals that process 16mm in this tank, do you keep the emulsion in or out?

Thanks.
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#2 Richardson Leao

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Posted 04 March 2007 - 06:33 PM

I've processed a few rolls of 16mm with mixed results in a Morse G3 tank. I have noticed some rolls come out better than others as far as the 'printing on itself' effect. I imagine this has something to do with whether the emulsion is in towards the spool or outwards from the spool.

To you guys and gals that process 16mm in this tank, do you keep the emulsion in or out?

Thanks.


i keep it out. dunno if it's right though...
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#3 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 02:04 AM

I've processed a few rolls of 16mm with mixed results in a Morse G3 tank. I have noticed some rolls come out better than others as far as the 'printing on itself' effect. I imagine this has something to do with whether the emulsion is in towards the spool or outwards from the spool.

To you guys and gals that process 16mm in this tank, do you keep the emulsion in or out?

Thanks.


I recommend replace of tank and use of LOMO UPB-1, UPB-1A ( S8/16 x 50 ft ) spiral tank for processing of film.
And you forger about any " printing on itself" effect and difference in quality of processing.

I hear, Philip Akers [standard8phil@msn.com] have for sell a spiral tank and other glass lab ware of home film processing lab .
You can ask him.

You can ask me about film dryer for films, set chemistry for processing B&W reversal film.
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#4 markb

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 05:44 AM

I have a set of instructions with my tank and it definately says the emulsion should be facing out. so if your tank has the window the emulsion should be visible through it.

By the way can i ask how you develop your film because i've tried four films now and each time i end up with a blank film. everything goes well until the second development and then i loose all my images and end up with a strip of brown film!!

i'm trying to process Fomapan R100 black and white reversal.

thanks.

Edited by markb, 05 March 2007 - 05:45 AM.

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#5 K Borowski

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 04:52 PM

Emulsion out, but only if you don't mind shoddy-looking results. Rewind processing is not as high a calibre as spiral reel or roller-transport processing.

~KB
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#6 James Erd

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 05:56 PM

I agree with Karl, the G3 tends to give uneven development.

It also leaves a peculiar sort of agitation mark on the film which I find very distracting. On the other hand they are nice to have around in a post-apocalyptic pinch. I have two G3 and the original instructions. If you like I can post the instructions here.
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#7 Nick Mulder

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 06:17 PM

By the way can i ask how you develop your film because i've tried four films now and each time i end up with a blank film. everything goes well until the second development and then i loose all my images and end up with a strip of brown film!!

i'm trying to process Fomapan R100 black and white reversal.

thanks.


Goes well until the second development ? As in when you are doing the re-exposure you can see the latent image of clear film (what will be white) and left over emulsion (what will be varying intensities black) ?

If you can see these after the 1st dev, bleach, clearing bath and re-exposure - then you should be onto a winner ... Are you perhaps using the stink-bomb chemical re-exposure ?

There are plenty of instructions online for the process that we all follow more or less - I'd suggest it will be more helpful for you to tell us the formulas and timings that you are following...
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#8 Joseph Winchester

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 07:51 PM

Thanks everyone. Yes Karl, I understand this process gives 'shoddy' results. That is the reason I got the tank to begin with. I've had a few successes with it so far, very scratchy and stained. Nice for certain things. Especially shooting with an old keystone wind-up 16mm.

It would be great to have one of the Lomo spiral tanks, yes. But since I can only find them from Russia or the Ukraine, which is a bit of a hassle with shipping and customs and currency exchange, I don't bother. If I found one in the U.S., sure.

And yes, James, if you have the instructions I would LOVE to see them. I don't have any with mine.

markb, i haven't developed bw reversal yet. I have the kodak kit to do it. I've only done bw negative and 2 rolls of color developed in C41, rubbing off the remjet post-development.... those films came out DIRTY!

Thanks again.
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#9 Jizhong Zhang

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 08:39 AM

I have develop with morse G3 10 roll 100ft but it is difficult to day There is some water stains so It`s not very clean and the film also very smooth so when I transform to video the image is shake
is there any better dry method or dryer
I know morse have a model 3m dryer but I never seen it
and can I get a processor?
Kodak Versamat 5N B/W film processor or a Cramer processor?
?
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#10 Jim Carlile

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Posted 19 January 2008 - 02:52 AM

The emulsion definitely has to be facing out because you want the maximum amount of surface area exposed. There's a way to wind the film onto the take-up reel that will automatically turn the emulsion out the correct way:

http://www.marriottc...th_pictures.htm


The newer tanks don't have the little front spindle that you thread the film around to peak it away from the reels. This reduces the surface area as well so they're not as good as the older tanks.

The G-3 will work OK-- sometimes really well-- but it prefers smaller film lengths for best results and lots of experimentation. Plus patience and a strong wrist.
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