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Some 16mm questions


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#1 Zamir Merali

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 05:48 PM

I'm planning on shooting my first super independant feature this summer. I wanted to do it on 16mm but due to my limited funds I was hoping to get some advice. what would be the absolute cheapes I could get 16 mm film. I live in Canada and the one company that sells recans and shortends costs about .20 cents a foot. Could i get it any cheaper from anywhere else? Thank you.

Second, If I used reversal film and negative film in different scenes, would the difference be hugely obvious or would it be subtle?

To save some money I was considering filming at 18 fps instead of 24. Then I could slow the speed down after telicine. The only sideeffect would be a larger amount of motion blur. Do you think this would work or would the motion blur be very distracting?

Thanks for answering these questions. I am getting a small amount of film soon so I should be able to do some tests.

Zamir Merali
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#2 stoop

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 06:01 PM

I'm planning on shooting my first super independant feature this summer. I wanted to do it on 16mm but due to my limited funds I was hoping to get some advice. what would be the absolute cheapes I could get 16 mm film. I live in Canada and the one company that sells recans and shortends costs about .20 cents a foot. Could i get it any cheaper from anywhere else? Thank you.

Second, If I used reversal film and negative film in different scenes, would the difference be hugely obvious or would it be subtle?

To save some money I was considering filming at 18 fps instead of 24. Then I could slow the speed down after telicine. The only sideeffect would be a larger amount of motion blur. Do you think this would work or would the motion blur be very distracting?

Thanks for answering these questions. I am getting a small amount of film soon so I should be able to do some tests.

Zamir Merali


good luck with that
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#3 David Sweetman

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 06:26 PM

Well, just buying the raw stock and getting it processed is the cheap part. The killer part is going to be telecine and the HD xfer/online or neg cutting/printing - and I have no idea how the chemical process would work if you used both reversal and negative. I guess you'd have to make a workprint of the reversal and also make an inter-negative(?) to cut it in with the rest of the negative. I bet someone else could clear that up more.

I think 18fps duplicated to make 24 would get very hard on the eyes after an hour and a half. Plus it would make the online a nightmare, which would probably end up costing you a lot more than if you hand just shot 24fps, since the pulldown would be unfamiliar and probably give everyone a headache, but talk to the post house first and see if they've got a system for it, and if they do, test it.

Edited by David Sweetman, 28 March 2007 - 06:28 PM.

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#4 Patrick Cooper

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 05:06 AM

Good luck finding a 16mm camera that can run at 18fps. Most 16mm cameras that I have played around with have an option for 16fps, but not 18fps. I would recommend shooting at 24fps for nice looking smooth motion. Plus it's even more critical if you are planning to shoot synch sound for this feature film of yours.
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#5 David Mullen ASC

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 07:45 AM

Don't do it. Shoot at 24 fps. If this is a feature, you have to plan for the possibility of delivering it to various markets: NTSC, PAL, 35mm film. Shoot at the standard frame rate of 24 fps. If you transfer 18 fps to NTSC, you'll be stuck in NTSC with an unusual pulldown, plus some TV markets might reject the transfer for having odd these pulldown artifacts in a feature, which they probably wouldn't care if it were a music video or something. Plus there is all the sound issues.
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