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Light a Supermarket


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#1 Bruno Alzaga

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:15 AM

Recently I have to light some shelves. Thats was simple, i solve that with some Kino.
But i was wondering if i have to light an entire shelve and the aisle with a talent. I usually shoot with a Panaconic P200, HD. So, I think that i need a lot of diffused light to simulate the supermarket light and to have no shadows in the floor and in the shelves.

Can someone tell me a method to simulate a supermarket lighting.

Thanks and i will try to find some frames of what i mean
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#2 Ken Zukin

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 10:48 AM

Re-lamp your Kino with the same fluorescents that the Supermarket uses. The problem with Supermarket lighting is the direction it's coming from - straight down. You need some lower-angled flattering light for the talent. Throw some diffusion in front of your re-lamped Kino, and you're good to go. You may have to flag off some of the top-light falling on your talent though, if it's too strong.
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#3 James Brown

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 06:05 PM

Hi,

Depends on how big your area is and how much your seeing. I wouldn't be too bothered about having a few shadows otherwise you will be fighting trying to get enough soft light in there. You could use a 1.2 through a frame of diff (prob 216 or 250) washing down the shelf from behind camera and getting some nice spread.... I find a bit of hard light in a wide shot will make the products glisten and give you some nice highlights. All depends on your budget and size of supermarket but a hmi will do the trick.

James
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#4 Chris Keth

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 06:15 PM

I recently did this and found that I didn't heav the resources do light much of the set. I let practicals do that and concentrated on the talent with kinos lamped like the store and diffused with a single layer of opal.

One thing that helps is to choose where in the store you shoot carefully. Try to place talent carefully in relation to fixtures overhead to avoid strong shadows in the eyesockets.
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#5 Ken Minehan

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 09:13 PM

If you use the fluorescents for the source of your light wouldn't you get a greenish tinge. How would you correct this when the entire buildings lighting is fluorescent. I can understand correcting the lights you use for the main talent, but the overall fill?

Thanks
Ken MInehan
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#6 Chris Keth

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 10:33 PM

If you use the fluorescents for the source of your light wouldn't you get a greenish tinge. How would you correct this when the entire buildings lighting is fluorescent. I can understand correcting the lights you use for the main talent, but the overall fill?

Thanks
Ken MInehan


The idea is to get all of your sources matching (at least the ones you want to be considered "white" on film) and then filter or white balance the camera to compensate.
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#7 Ken Minehan

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 12:40 AM

ok. So if i was to use tungsten stock, what filter would i use to turn it to white light?
what about daylight stock?

regards
ken Minehan
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#8 Bruno Alzaga

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 11:19 AM

ok. So if i was to use tungsten stock, what filter would i use to turn it to white light?
what about daylight stock?

regards
ken Minehan


With 3200 stock if the sources are 3200, use nothing. I don´t thing that the supermarket use 5600 light. In this case you have to put 85 on the lights of the supermarket.

Regards
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#9 Chris Keth

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 04:48 PM

ok. So if i was to use tungsten stock, what filter would i use to turn it to white light?
what about daylight stock?

regards
ken Minehan


This depends on what type of flourescent tubes your supermarket location uses. They come in different color temperatures and CRI (Color Rendering Index) ratings, which to us is mostly a measure of how nasty the green spike in the tube's spectrum is.
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#10 Chris Keth

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 04:55 PM

Grr, I tried to edit my last post and I guess the time expired so:

"Cool White" is 4100-4200K color temp. and will have a green spike roughly corrected by 1/2-full minus green. "Warm white" is supposed to be 3000K and will have about the same green spike. The reason I say 1/2-full minus green is that the green spike tends to vary, I guess with the exect tubes used and perhaps their age.

Large buildings will tend to ahve lots of different tubes in use at once, because they buy whatever is cheapest in bulk at the time they need to buy tubes. It's probably best to get tubes representative of what is used in the store and go with any tiny variations from it in the store's tubes unless you ahve the time and budget to replace all of their tubes so they are all uniform.
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#11 Glenn Hanns

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 03:56 PM

Im doing this setup in two weeks, Ive decided to pull all the fluros out of the ceiling cavity and replace with Kinos with tungsten. Im shooting 7217 so I didnt want any nasty spikes or try to correct various brands of fluro tubes to match each other. I also dont think I could get enough level from a corrected fluro tube to light the supermarket with a base fill anyway. Im going to correct the front glass windows with some ND and 1/2 CTO just to take the excessively blue look out of it. Additionally corrected 4K HMIs are belted in from out side and suplimented inside with this backlight look where needed with smaller units. Ill also add some floor bounce on FG actors depending on where they are in the room. Hopefully to look something like this:

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#12 Diego de la Pena

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 10:36 AM

Recently I have to light some shelves. Thats was simple, i solve that with some Kino.
But i was wondering if i have to light an entire shelve and the aisle with a talent. I usually shoot with a Panaconic P200, HD. So, I think that i need a lot of diffused light to simulate the supermarket light and to have no shadows in the floor and in the shelves.

Can someone tell me a method to simulate a supermarket lighting.

Thanks and i will try to find some frames of what i mean


Hi bruno!! I really can´t believe i found you in this forum...
I don´t have the method you´re asking for... but i tell you this: if you learn how to light a supermarket, then you´re hired to work with us!!!
Just one more thing: Happy Birthday!! Sorry, i missed the date... I´ll call your cell.
Brunito carajo, nomá!!!
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Metropolis Post

CineTape

Rig Wheels Passport

CineLab

Technodolly

Aerial Filmworks

Tai Audio

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Glidecam

Abel Cine

Ritter Battery

rebotnix Technologies

FJS International, LLC

Opal

Visual Products

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Paralinx LLC

Wooden Camera

Willys Widgets