Elmo 16 CL - how can I make it brighter ?
Posted 10 May 2007 - 05:47 PM
I own an Elmo 16CL 16mm projector and am hoping there are modifications to make it brighter - I have the standard 'optical' version that uses those 24v bulbs like other projectors I've used (like the Eiki, singer etc...) - not so sure of the wattage...
I understand there is a 'Xenon' version of the 16CL that is much brighter - Anyone have any idea if I can convert mine to this ?
Or any other mod's to make it brighter - opening the shutter angle a smidge maybe ?
Using a non-blistering array of blistering LED's in 5 years from now when they are so bright you can spot the moon with them >?
I'm not so concerned with burning my film - I'll risk that as the application would in some cases call for that sort of carry on
Also my ammeter is kaput for the time being - anyone have an idea of the amps it draws ? (240V here btw)
any suggestions appreciated,
Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:41 PM
Most 16mm projectors with the ELC 250 watt bulb have a rated draw of around 350 watts. However some of this is inductive current from the motor, and current peaks from the rectifiers in the amplifier, so I would wildly guess 2 or 3 amps peak on 240 volts, never having measured it.
...I understand there is a 'Xenon' version of the 16CL that is much brighter - Anyone have any idea if I can convert mine to this ?
Or any other mod's to make it brighter ...
This is a very efficient bulb system and I don't think you could improve on it except by going to Xenon, Marc or carbon arc light. None of these would be an easy or cheap mod.
You could do a shutter swap and put in a 2-blade shutter if you only ever run 24 FPS. The Kodak Pageant projectors with the Super-40 Shutter could be set to shift to 2 blades at sound speed, then increasing the effective light by 40%, hence the name.
What is the F number of the lens? If it it is f/1.6 you could increase the light by up to 100% maybe by swapping for an f/1.2 lens. I have not tried this and don't know if this increase is available in real life, which depends on the ultimate angle of light (i.e. the f number) coming from the lamp.
Posted 14 May 2007 - 01:03 AM
It has a 1.2 lens already ... cool in some ways, bums in other
Do you have any links info on how to mod the shutter ? Is there a kit or parts supplier ? or is it a home build mod ?
I should open it up and have alook one day soon but I've been using it a heap lately ...
Posted 16 May 2007 - 08:59 PM
Folks like Elmo and Eiki used to offer a 2-blade shutter as a special order option. Anyone with a good parts stock might have one. I have heard however that Elmo and Eiki parts are now impossible to find, which is one reason we are using Bell & Howell mechanisms in our TVT Tobin Video Transfer machines despite the fatal flaws that need to be fixed first. Most of the important parts for B&H 16mm machines are still available and are even being newly manufactured.
...Do you have any links info on how to mod the shutter ?...
You could maybe make your own 2-blade shutter. You first need to mark the pulldown blade (that is the one that blocks the light path while the film is being pulled down to the next frame.) Your 2-blade shutter needs to have this blade in common with the original 3-blade one.
The other blade of the two needs to be identical to the first and exactly 180 degrees opposite. This is to double the flicker rate so your eye won't see it. (Unless your screen brightness is high.) If the size or spacing is off you will see flicker.
Shutter blades are usually made from thin sheet metal. The mounting holes may be elongated to allow exact shutter timing adjustment to the pulldown to eliminate travel ghost. If you have travel ghost, loosen the screws and move the shutter a little one way or the other and retighten, until it is gone, preferably while projecting a film with bright highlights but that is mostly dark. There is usually zero margin for error.