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First time with 16mm


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#1 Chris Loughran

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 05:11 PM

Hey,
I just got my 16mm film back from the lab and I couldn't be happier. The Kodak Tri-X came out really clean and contrasty. The Fuji 64D looks pretty with cool, soft pastel colors. I shot a roll of reala 500D and was least happy with that footage. I was surprised at the quality of the image shot with my k3. The Image is steady, it is clear of scratches, besides one little piece of hair in the gate (my fault) the footage looks great.
I was a little worried about how it was going to come out. I didn't use a changing bag to load any of the film. I hadn't seen any footage shot with this specific camera so I was a little anxious about weather the camera would run properly.
The telecine transfer looks really good too. I did a best overall light and it is pretty consistent. (cinelab)
I cant wait to buy some more film. planning on shooting some Kodak color neg next. I am even thinking of shooting a music video with this camera because everything came out so well. OK, I am done raving about my first 16mm experience, anyone who is thinking about getting a k3 to mess around and learn how to expose film, I highly recommend picking up one of these cameras. I'll post the address for the footage once I get it online. you guys can tell me what you think.
Thanks,
Chris Loughran

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#2 Robert Hughes

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Posted 27 July 2007 - 11:36 AM

Reminds me of the first time I shot 16mm. I was so jazzed - everything looked like an art film! Welcome to to a whole new realm of possibility.
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#3 Chris Loughran

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 01:07 AM

here is a link to some of the footage I shot.

http://www.chrisloug...ke-web-size.mov

http://www.chrisloug...ji-f64d-web.mov

I still have one more clip to post. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what I could have done differently to get different looks? (Filters ect?)
One of the shots of the guy playing guitar I used the yellow filter. It seemed to make the blacks blacker without really making the sky alot darker. basically adding more contrast. I liked it.
Thanks
~Chris
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#4 Chris Loughran

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 01:13 AM

here is a link to some of the footage I shot.

http://www.chrisloug...ke-web-size.mov

http://www.chrisloug...ji-f64d-web.mov

I still have one more clip to post. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what I could have done differently to get different looks? (Filters ect?)
One of the shots of the guy playing guitar I used the yellow filter. It seemed to make the blacks blacker without really making the sky alot darker. basically adding more contrast. I liked it.
Thanks
~Chris
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#5 Martin Yernazian

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 01:30 AM

Well basically the lens and teh stock that you use, yes filters help to change and accommodate your look but the first 2 are the ones that really make a difference.

BEst
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#6 Martin Yernazian

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 01:40 AM

Also which city did you shoot this at?
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#7 Jan Weis

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 04:05 AM

Well for b&w film, colored filters can really change the look. A red filter for example turns the sky into dark grey (as aposed to the white sky).

/Jan
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#8 Chris Loughran

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 10:43 AM

Also which city did you shoot this at?



I am in Boston, MA. I love shooting here. There is always something going on and endless locations to shoot. Thanks for your replies!
~Chris Loughran
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#9 AdamBray

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 07:53 PM

Looks good
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#10 Robert Glenn

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 09:50 AM

looks good... what focal length did you shoot at? the image was pretty shaky
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#11 Chris Burke

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 06:53 PM

I am in Boston, MA. I love shooting here. There is always something going on and endless locations to shoot. Thanks for your replies!
~Chris Loughran



Chris,


I am in Boston also and am never at a loss for a good frame. Check out under the Zakim bridge. I use Cinelab a lot and often go for the straight to drive option. In fact that is about all I do. did you use it, if so, whatch 'ya think? I have owned many K-3s, and the slight jitter in some of the frames of Tri-X I saw, is usually caused by the loops being too small. If you can afford it, send the camera to Duall in NYC. They will do a great overhaul and Super 16 conversion if you want to. I think using regular 16 is still very viable. You can see your work as a print for not too too much money. The F64 looks incredible, not as saturated as I would have thought, but beautiful just the same. Keep up the good work.


Chris
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#12 Bill DiPietra

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 09:08 PM

I just got some Plus-X back and I couldn't be happier either!.....and I've been shooting 16mm for a while! LOL

Every roll is a new one...
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#13 Chris Loughran

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 09:27 PM

Chris,
I am in Boston also and am never at a loss for a good frame. Check out under the Zakim bridge. I use Cinelab a lot and often go for the straight to drive option. In fact that is about all I do. did you use it, if so, whatch 'ya think? I have owned many K-3s, and the slight jitter in some of the frames of Tri-X I saw, is usually caused by the loops being too small. If you can afford it, send the camera to Duall in NYC. They will do a great overhaul and Super 16 conversion if you want to. I think using regular 16 is still very viable. You can see your work as a print for not too too much money. The F64 looks incredible, not as saturated as I would have thought, but beautiful just the same. Keep up the good work.
Chris



Chris,
Maybe we will cross paths in Boston some day. When I was shooting the guy playing guitar under the spotlight I heard an awful noise coming from the camera. I new instantly I had loaded the film incorrectly. I opened it up right away and the pressure plate had come loose and the pin wasn't catching the perfs. so I fixed it and it seemed to work it self out. In the end it just created a cool effect. I am thinking about getting the camera converted to super 16, but I'm not sure I am into the cost.
The F64D is a little de-saturated, but I am playing around with some color correction in FCP to add some contrast and saturation. I should have used the ND and maybe that would have added a little more contrast.
Thanks for your reply.
Chris
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#14 Chris Loughran

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 09:32 PM

looks good... what focal length did you shoot at? the image was pretty shaky



Robert,
It was all handheld so anything that was higher than 50mm looks kind of shaky. I need to invest in a decent support system. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chris
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#15 ryan_bennett

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 10:23 PM

Great stuff! Boston K3 shooters unite!
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#16 Patrick Cooper

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 03:47 AM

"I should have used the ND and maybe that would have added a little more contrast."

A Neutral Density filter shouldn't have any effect on contrast.

I'm a K3 shooter as well. Earlier this year I was filming wildlife on Kangaroo Island with mine, including a school of dolphins. Those Pentax Takumar lenses certainly come in handy for telephoto shots. I was shooting on negative cine film for the first time (Fuji Eterna 250D.) I had a print made but havent seen the results yet (my Bell & Howell projector needs a new bulb.)
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#17 benni

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Posted 28 August 2007 - 08:05 PM

tripod!
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#18 Michael Collier

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Posted 28 August 2007 - 08:23 PM

On the meteor lens, I would recomend not using ND to get more contrast. If you watch the iris, it starts round, then goes into a star of david pattern around an f2.0-2.8, then back to a circle around f 4/5.6 split. It seems to be soft and lower contrast (as a result of that softness) when the iris is still in star of david mode. Its kinda lame with that lens, since basicly if you want to avoid that your shooting everything at an f4-5.6, which means more DOF. If you get a chance pick up a cheap set of M42 mount 35mm lenses. I am still trying to find a C-mount adaptor so I can use quality lenses that go a bit wider than the 22mms I can find in M42. But for longer lenses, get a used set of prime still lenses.

As much as you love your K3 now, you'll really dig it with a better lens on it.....and tripod, I will concur on that. handheld good is for when a handheld shot says something other than "man sticks are too heavy to carry around". or get a handheld shot of your tripod, I suppose then we wouldn't have anything to say.

edit* sorry saw earlier you said you need to find a good tripod....they can get pricey, but a 501 head with a decent set of sticks might run you 400-500 bucks and will do the job for anything up to the HDV weight range (rated at 13 pounds, really more suited to 7 or under). Look for one with a 75mm ball level mount...it will save you a ton of time rather than trying to adjust every leg to level your head, even if it costs you a bit more. It will mean you won't get the crank up center column, but those are worthless anyway.
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#19 Chris Loughran

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 06:03 PM

Hey Guys,
Thanks for checking out my footage. I do plan on getting a tripod and a new set of lenses. I have been looking into a couple different Manfrotto modles and compatable 35mm primes. I didn't invest in this stuff at first mainly because I was just seeing if the camera even worked. And it does! Better than I thought. I posted another video on my site, its called "kodak test, first roll", and it is, the first roll I shot.
Thanks again for your advise.
~Chris
http://www.chrisloughran.com/projects/
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#20 Chris Loughran

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 10:25 PM

Hi,
I have removed the footage I shot from my website. I apologize if anyone wanted to look at it. Someone has downloaded the video, put their website stamp on it and is passing it off as their own on youtube. I know the name of the person who did it and hopefully it will be removed from youtube and their website as well. If you post a video online, make sure it is copy-written or has your name on it or it may end up on z5films.com.
thanks
~Chris Loughran
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