Getting a deep dof with a 35mm adapter.
Posted 07 December 2007 - 01:49 AM
Posted 07 December 2007 - 02:08 AM
In the case of relay lens adapters the circle of confusion is increased a bit by the groundglass, in other words the image is made softer overall compared to the optics of the taking lens or the camera's lens. You also lose a bit of contrast.
If you want deep focus with 35mm optics you use the combination of highest aperture, shortest focal length, and farthest distance to subject that you can manage for the setup. This isn't always so easy with 35mm adapters.
If you want to take advantage of the deep focus offered by 1/3" chip cameras but still want some of the softening and lowered contrast of an adapter, you can try different diffusion filters like Ultracons and low-cons.
But I have to admit, getting deep focus with a 35mm adapter is really going 'round your a$$ to get to your elbow. Take a good look at what you like about the "look" of these 35mm adapters -- is it influenced by the shallow depth of field? Have you seen a deep-focused image from one of these, or are you just imagining what it might look like? If you have seen it, what did that image look like? Was it just washed-out and softened compared to the camera's "clean" image? Unless there's some other particular characteristic you like of the lenses you're using...
Posted 07 December 2007 - 02:20 AM
Keep in mind that with the adapter you're probably losing up to 2 stops, and if you're closing down the 35mm lens to let's say T.8 your ASA is going to be extremely slow.
IMHO, the aesthetic of achieving that film look by using 35mm lenses on an adapter is completely lost if you're not taking advantage of the shallow depth of field.
Posted 07 December 2007 - 02:50 AM
Posted 07 December 2007 - 04:20 AM
On a recent shoot, we switched from using a Pro35 adapter to a Canon zoom to gain our two stops back for some night exteriors. To soften the image a bit and get it closer to that ground glass look, we adjusted the Master Detail level from -5 to -15 and adjusted the shutter from 1/48 to 1/36.
I couldn't quite tell in camera whether the shutter angle made much of a difference, but in tests we could definitely see the difference when we adjusted the master detail level. It just brought back some of that softness in the highlights that comes as a result of the ground glass when shooting with an adapter.