Day to night exposure for timelapse shoot
Posted 02 March 2008 - 02:00 PM
We figure we'll set everything to manual (WB, Exposure, Shutter) as changing halfway through is likely to cause a noticeable exposure, colour temperature or depth of field change.
But how do we deal effectively with the light level change from day to night?! We obviously can't be adjusting all the way or we won't have an effective fall towards night, but then if we're still on our day exposure at night we're going to be in trouble...
I'm not talking about the need for an intervelometer etc, as I believe the camera will be controlled from a computer, just dealing theoretically with this day to night change.
I'm sure there's no magic solution to this, but can anyone advise?
Posted 04 March 2008 - 05:23 AM
If your trying to maintain a short DOF then setting the iris to auto probably won't work for you, but on a wide shot of a landscape it'll work fine. If you do need to maintain a consistent DOF then you could set the shutter to auto.
Posted 04 March 2008 - 01:30 PM
Posted 18 March 2008 - 09:08 AM
Posted 18 March 2008 - 10:05 AM
Can you tell us more about the shot? For example, if you start your timelapse about 1 or 2 stops over, you can let it get darker, and sometimes the streetlights and cars, etc, will compensate. This assumes you are shooting in a city with lights.
The other unknown is your computer controlling the camera. If this connection can MANUALLY ramp the shutter in very small increments, it might work. But if you are relying on the camera's light meter, my experience is that it jumps all over the place as clouds move, cars come by, subject matter changes, etc.
If I can offer any advice, feel free to pm me and we can chat by phone.
Posted 18 March 2008 - 02:48 PM
In fact, it sounds like a very bad idea.
I agree. Maybe I should have added 'it-depends-on-the-shot' to qualify my suggestion a bit better.
Here's an example of timelapse shot with the exposure controlled automatically... (spot the artifacts - there are some in there, none however are related to exposure)
This worked because the lighting changes were rather low frequency changes, it will not work very well with high frequency exposure changes.
Posted 23 March 2008 - 10:14 AM
So, I can't be specific about how the shoot worked, but from what research I did do in the run-up, I came to similar conclusions to Aaron - that the best approach is to adjust exposure to register your main lighting changes correctly. Let your day fall under, effectively getting a fall out by under-exposure; open up to adjust for the real sunset and let it fall to night; open up again for night. Then smooth the transition in post.
There's an interesting article here: