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K-3 Problem...URGENT!


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#1 ben mccandlish

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Posted 12 April 2008 - 10:44 PM

i'm new to the forums, and i'm a film student at wright state university. right now i'm filming with the K-3 16mm, and i believe i overcranked it. when i turn it, the crank makes no noise now. and it wont film. what should i do?
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#2 David Venhaus

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 12:58 AM

Is there film in the camera? If so, it could be jammed.
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#3 ben mccandlish

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 01:22 AM

Is there film in the camera? If so, it could be jammed.


i checked, and its not. i think i have sprung the clockwork mechanism through too much aggressive winding. is it easy to fix if i did?
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#4 David Venhaus

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 02:28 AM

When you were winding it, did it make any abnormal sounds like a sudden crack or something. If you broke the spring, you probably would have heard something. If it is actually broken (or the gears) then it will require someone to repair it.

Sometimes the camera just gets stuck. I used a K3 that this occasionally happened to. Just pressing the trigger a couple times, letting it spring out, back into place, usually worked, or tapping the camera on the side, with the palm of your hand, will get it working.
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#5 Robert Houllahan

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 03:00 AM

When you were winding it, did it make any abnormal sounds like a sudden crack or something. If you broke the spring, you probably would have heard something. If it is actually broken (or the gears) then it will require someone to repair it.

Sometimes the camera just gets stuck. I used a K3 that this occasionally happened to. Just pressing the trigger a couple times, letting it spring out, back into place, usually worked, or tapping the camera on the side, with the palm of your hand, will get it working.



Welcome to the wonderful and less complex world of filmmaking, try pressing the trigger a few times while smacking the side of the camera, if the movement does not knock loose then you might want to pop the door off and start messing withe the film in the movement, perhaps your loop is too short? the cameras are simple, thinking simple is part of the appeal of making moving pictures with film...

-Rob-
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#6 David Venhaus

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 05:31 AM

Well, given the limited amount of info on the problem, I'm just giving a few simple general suggestions. I've rebuilt k3's before, if I knew the specific technical problem, I could probably give a more definitive answer.
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#7 Will Montgomery

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 08:13 PM

I thought with K3s you just bought another one when you ran out of film? :rolleyes:

If the spring actually broke, I would think it would have made a really loud snap and probably scared the crap out of you. Although I have heard of an issue of "overwinding" these cameras quite a bit.

If a few good smacks and pushing the trigger doesn't seem to do any thing you could send it over to Du-Al camera in NYC or Super16Inc. in upstate NY... they could tell you pretty quickly what the issue is for a minimal fee then you can decide if you want to fix it or just buy another one. Keep your lens and grip as spares and you'll have a nice set. At $150 it's pretty affordable to pick up another one. 2 rolls of film, processing & transfer will cost you about the same anyway.
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#8 aapo lettinen

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 11:09 AM

I opened my K2 once, and reattached the sprocket wheel (which drives the film)
to a slightly wrong position. this causes sometimes that the wheel jams.
Try to open the pressing wheels, if it is this kind of problem it should help immediately.
(you hear a huge 'click' or 'crack' and then the camera works again :rolleyes: )
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#9 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 05:09 AM

I opened my K2 once, and reattached the sprocket wheel (which drives the film)
to a slightly wrong position. this causes sometimes that the wheel jams.
Try to open the pressing wheels, if it is this kind of problem it should help immediately.
(you hear a huge 'click' or 'crack' and then the camera works again :rolleyes: )


The mechanisn of Krasnogrosk included one sproket wheel and 4 film rollers from two side of wheel.
The rollers set on two levers at two rollers on one lever.
The every roller have gnowing-through,( turning ) for cog's of sproket wheel.
If the position of sproket wheel or rollers incorrect, the cog of wheel can jam at roller.
The next problme can be at gaps between wheel and rollers.
If the gap too small, the film will jam between wheel and rollers, if too mach - the cogs will lost of perforation of film and film will jam too.

The every lever have screws for fix of position of lever and screw for adjust of position of lever.
Need uscrew of " fix" screw a some, closed rollers on wheel with film and turn of " adjustable " screw and adjust of positon of rollers.
The gap between of rollers and wheel must be like two thickness of Kodak film.

Krasnogorsk-2 good device, have body like Krasnogorsk-1, bayonet mount and zoom lens "Meteor", like Krasnogorsk-3.
You can use of all prime lenses from set of Kransogrosk-1, 12.5mm, 20 mm, 50 mm and lenses from 16SP professional cine cameras.
The professional 16 mm russian zoom lens 16OPF-12-1 10-100 mm can be upgrade of ruse with Krasnororsk cameras with bayonet mount.

K-2 use metal film magazines.
K-3 build for use of 100 ft daylight spools.
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#10 aapo lettinen

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 08:30 AM

The mechanisn of Krasnogrosk included one sproket wheel and 4 film rollers from two side of wheel.
The rollers set on two levers at two rollers on one lever.
The every roller have gnowing-through,( turning ) for cog's of sproket wheel.
If the position of sproket wheel or rollers incorrect, the cog of wheel can jam at roller.
The next problme can be at gaps between wheel and rollers.
If the gap too small, the film will jam between wheel and rollers, if too mach - the cogs will lost of perforation of film and film will jam too.

The every lever have screws for fix of position of lever and screw for adjust of position of lever.
Need uscrew of " fix" screw a some, closed rollers on wheel with film and turn of " adjustable " screw and adjust of positon of rollers.
The gap between of rollers and wheel must be like two thickness of Kodak film.

Krasnogorsk-2 good device, have body like Krasnogorsk-1, bayonet mount and zoom lens "Meteor", like Krasnogorsk-3.
You can use of all prime lenses from set of Kransogrosk-1, 12.5mm, 20 mm, 50 mm and lenses from 16SP professional cine cameras.
The professional 16 mm russian zoom lens 16OPF-12-1 10-100 mm can be upgrade of ruse with Krasnororsk cameras with bayonet mount.

K-2 use metal film magazines.
K-3 build for use of 100 ft daylight spools.


I like K2 too :rolleyes:
Loading the magazines is quite nasty becourse I don't have any kind of device to spool the film to those cores.
Winded it manually using my fingers, huh :blink: (only 40 feet not 100 usually ;) )

I also converted it to s16 but have no tools to collimate it. Still works fine in r16. :unsure:
(the Meteor 5-1 seems to cover the s16 frame when about below 50mm and
under f2.0 or something. btw, are those f or T -stops?)
# OMG can I use Kinor zoom in K2? :huh: If so, I'll maybe visit the Ebay soon ;)
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