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CP motor on Mitchell.


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#1 Paul Bruening

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:26 PM

Hey all,

I've got this Cinema Products Multi-speed sync motor for my Mitchell NC. My problem is that I don't know which pins to put the 24Volt power on. Can you take a look at the pics and help me out?

CPmotor_02.jpg
CP_motor_power_jack.jpg
CPmotor_03.jpg

Firstly, have you ever cracked one of these open? Secondly, do you know the usages of each of these pin positions?

If you look at the inside picture, you'll see the three pins side of the plug. The orange wire goes to the start capacitor (I assume that's what that shiny, metal housed component is). The red cable goes to the motor. The black cable goes to the speed switch. Which do you think is + and which -?

As well, what's this Cannon connector's name so I can try to rustle one up from somewhere?
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#2 Olex Kalynychenko

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 12:53 AM

Hey all,

I've got this Cinema Products Multi-speed sync motor for my Mitchell NC. My problem is that I don't know which pins to put the 24Volt power on. Can you take a look at the pics and help me out?

I think, You need study of main PCb of electronic module, search of power components of motor control, voltage stabilizers and other.
You need study of wires between main components of motor and show of all wires on diagram.
This is DC motor ?
What kinds of feed back sensor have motor? This is tachometer generator or optical encoder or magnetic sensor, other type?
I see, the speed switch show of " Synch" near 24, 25 fps only.
May be, the other speeds with manual speed adjusting ?, not crystal sync speed ?
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#3 John Sprung

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 12:16 PM

As well, what's this Cannon connector's name so I can try to rustle one up from somewhere?

It looks like Lloyd's Camera might still be in business:

Contact







90028 Hollywood
California, USA.
Location Map


Phone: 1 323 4677956
Fax 1 323 4670626


30 years ago, Lloyds' was the mother lode of overpriced obsolete junk.

If you don't find the matching female connector, don't be afraid to take the screws out and replace it with the connector of your choice.



-- J.S.
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#4 Paul Bruening

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 02:34 PM

Thanks for the contact, John. I've got 4 pin XLRs, both jacks and plugs that will work in place of this 8-pin Cannon. I'm hoping some one here has been inside this housing and knows which of these big wires does what.
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#5 Marc Alucard

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 06:03 PM

Pin Five is negative pin Seven is positive power in on my camera.

Other pins are for buckle trip camera utility lights and I have seen them wired a variety of ways.

You still will need a Mitchell run switch box or something home brewed with a circuit breaker and a switch.

The motor may need 30 Volts DC instead of 24. Check the labels.

Good luck!

BTW- The gear is for a BNC blimp.
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#6 Paul Bruening

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:19 PM

Hey Marc,

Do you recall how CP liked to color code the wiring? On mine pin 5 is black and pin 7 is red. If mine is wired the same as yours then red stands for ground and black for hot. Does that sound right? Does your motor have a big start capacitor in the housing?

The label on the mount side says 24 - 30 Volts, 7 amps nom. I have a power supply that delivers 24V DC supply (27V, 13A actual). I'm assuming it will be enough.

Thanks for your help,
Paul
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#7 John Sprung

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:39 PM

then red stands for ground and black for hot.

Yikes -- It's the other way around. In DC, black is negative and ground, Red is positive and hot. In AC, white is neutral/common, and the legs are red and black.



-- J.S.
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#8 Marc Alucard

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:43 PM

I've never opened the motor unit itself. Sorry I can't offer more info.
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#9 Paul Bruening

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:49 PM

I'm inclined to agree with John. I kinda' got the feeling CP would follow conventions with the color coding. I guess I can find out the hard way. If it runs it's right. If it smokes, It's wrong. Isn't that a good determinant?
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#10 Paul Bruening

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:53 PM

Hang on Marc,

I'm looking at it wrong. This one is wired like yours. 5 is black and negative. 7 is red and positive. Sorry 'bout that.

I guess I'll put a toggle switch in the chassis for power since I don't have an inline, Mickie switch.

Thanks for all the input, fellas.
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#11 Marc Alucard

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:57 PM

Hang on Marc,

I'm looking at it wrong. This one is wired like yours. 5 is black and negative. 7 is red and positive. Sorry 'bout that.



I just took the motor blimp off my camera to see if I screwed up.

The info I gave you is correct for MY camera.

Let us know if "It's alive".

Cheers,
Marc
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#12 Paul Bruening

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 07:45 PM

I just found the power cable/on-off switch for this thing. I chopped the battery end and wired it into a 27V DC supply. The motor works really well and is utterly quiet.
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#13 Paul Bruening

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 10:42 PM

Dang. This thing locks up after 18 minutes. I took it apart. It is an amazing bit of engineering. All hand built down to the brass bodied servo motor. Too bad the bearings are shot. I gets hot and locks up. The bearings are grinding themselves up. Little bits of metal are leaking out of the motor. It has a Universal Studios inventory label on it. I guess they slap wore it out shooting... heck, it's a techniscope vintage motor. There's no telling what it shot.
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