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#1 tom doherty

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 07:09 AM

hi
recently bought a braun nizo 801, my first super8 camera. have used this camera before, but was not mine, and the ektachrome when processed and sent back to me was fine.

with my new nizo, i shot 2 rolls of e-64t and just got them back(processed) from the widescreen centre, and by just looking at the film they seem very overexposed, so much that you cant even see what has been shot. i then went to project it with my eumig mark 60, but the bulb has gone. typical.

so a few questions -

1. any reason why both would have turned out like this? i checked the instructions for the nizo, and it says that it could be because of the meter batteries? has anyone came across this problem before?

2. if it is the batteries and they need replacing, the instructions state that i need to replace with 2 X 1.35volt mallory PX625 batteries. does it have to be 'mallory' batteries whatever that is, and are these batteries easily bought on the internet? also, if these bateries do get replaced, can i guarantee that the next time i shoot (barcelona hopefully) that the shots will be correclty exposed? this worries me as i dont have the largest bank balance in the world, and dont fancy waiting another 3 weeks to see how the footage has turned out.

3. also, ive tried looking for a bulb for my projector, but cant find any. anyone know where i can get a replacement bulb for a eumig mark 60?


thanks in advance for any help, quite desperate to be honest
much appreciated
tom
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#2 Nate Downes

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 07:14 AM

hi
recently bought a braun nizo 801, my first super8 camera. have used this camera before, but was not mine, and the ektachrome when processed and sent back to me was fine.

with my new nizo, i shot 2 rolls of e-64t and just got them back(processed) from the widescreen centre, and by just looking at the film they seem very overexposed, so much that you cant even see what has been shot. i then went to project it with my eumig mark 60, but the bulb has gone. typical.

so a few questions -

1. any reason why both would have turned out like this? i checked the instructions for the nizo, and it says that it could be because of the meter batteries? has anyone came across this problem before?

2. if it is the batteries and they need replacing, the instructions state that i need to replace with 2 X 1.35volt mallory PX625 batteries. does it have to be 'mallory' batteries whatever that is, and are these batteries easily bought on the internet? also, if these bateries do get replaced, can i guarantee that the next time i shoot (barcelona hopefully) that the shots will be correclty exposed? this worries me as i dont have the largest bank balance in the world, and dont fancy waiting another 3 weeks to see how the footage has turned out.

3. also, ive tried looking for a bulb for my projector, but cant find any. anyone know where i can get a replacement bulb for a eumig mark 60?


thanks in advance for any help, quite desperate to be honest
much appreciated
tom

Could be a dozen things, but the meter battery is the most likely culpret. The batteries do not need to be Malloy, but they do need to be PX625, and yes, they are readily available. What are the three letter codes on the light bulb?
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#3 Richardson Leao

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 09:57 AM

Could be a dozen things, but the meter battery is the most likely culpret. The batteries do not need to be Malloy, but they do need to be PX625, and yes, they are readily available. What are the three letter codes on the light bulb?


one option is to replace the lightbulb socket. I did it to a B&H I have and put other modern bulb.

with ektachrome 64, i'd always use an external lightmeter. I have a nizo something (not the fancy ones) and it's always nicely exposed (measuring with a pentax spotmeter). Back to the projector, maybe u should consider this for previewing:

http://film.club.ne....lishgakken.html

u probably will never have to replace the bulb in your lifetime.
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#4 tom doherty

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 10:15 AM

Could be a dozen things, but the meter battery is the most likely culpret. The batteries do not need to be Malloy, but they do need to be PX625, and yes, they are readily available. What are the three letter codes on the light bulb?


sorry what bulb are you reffering to?
projector?
thanks for all help
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#5 Nate Downes

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 10:22 AM

sorry what bulb are you reffering to?
projector?
thanks for all help

Right, the projector bulb.
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#6 tom doherty

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 10:40 AM

Right, the projector bulb.


not sure, cant see any code on the bulb.

for the nizo, would these meter batteries be ok? http://www.camcentre...p;productId=44m
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#7 Nate Downes

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 10:45 AM

not sure, cant see any code on the bulb.

for the nizo, would these meter batteries be ok? http://www.camcentre...p;productId=44m

right batteries. As for the bulb, only other option is to post a picture of it and hope someone hear knows it.
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#8 tom doherty

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 11:09 AM

right batteries. As for the bulb, only other option is to post a picture of it and hope someone hear knows it.


thanks, just bought the batteries.

guess i'll try send the projector back. it came with a promising looking 'cine set' on ebay with a eumig mini3 servofocus super 8 camera, and an EV-1000 super8 editor viewer which i know nothing about.
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#9 andy oliver

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 01:23 PM

Hi, was the camera indicating say f11 in full sun?, have you checked the iris blades are closing within the camera? Eumig mark 60, 12v 100 w lamp?? look on the base of the projector, is the lanp a single casuple lamp, or a built in reflector type?
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#10 Michael Lehnert

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 05:10 PM

Should be standart 12V 100W reflector spots, as Eumig used them throughout their builds.

Hey, DON'T GIVE UP! Dead batteries and burnt-out lamps are totally normal and occur regularly. It's like running out of milk when you lust for porridge, or running out of beer when the semi-final turns sour and looses pics and sound... <_<
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#11 Richard Tuohy

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 07:11 PM

Yes, the Wien cell 1.35v zinc air is the only battery to use.
The bulb you mention sounds like the most common 12v 100W bulb and is readily available. If nothing else, Wittner in Germany sell them inexpensively.

Yes, don't give up. Shoot a thorough test roll with your new batteries and a roll of 64t. Do some bracketing of exposures + and - in 1/3rd of a stop increments from the reading given on auto (writing all the info on a card that is in shot!). Also, carefully set the eyepiece diopter then do some focus tests with the camera to see how well you set it. You could even 'bracket' with the eyepiece diopter to confirm correct setting.

enjoy your nizo!
Richard
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#12 tom doherty

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 09:34 AM

andy oliver - "was the camera indicating say f11 in full sun?, have you checked the iris blades are closing within the camera?" sorry, being new to this i have no idea what that means. the first time ive used super 8, i did the basic point and shoot without touching any settings, and the footage came out fine. but this is something i need to learn if i want to start using super8 more. i also looked at the base of the projector and it had nothing(no details) on the bottom. i have been told that it is a 75w 12v halogen lamp with a diachrome reflector. also have no idea what most of that means.


michael lenhert - trying not to give up. just hoping that with new meter batteries in the camera, everything will turn out ok. plan on taking my camera and some film to barcelona in a few weeks, and hoping the footage doesnt come back the same as before. and yeah i caught the semi final, typical bbc. as long as the germans dont win in the final. personal grudge.


richard tuohy - thanks, i have bought those batteries, and waiting for them in the post. just wondering, but how long do these batteries typically last? and for the bulb you mentioned, does it matter between 75w and 100w, ats ive been told by some people that its 75w, and 100w by others. also because am new to this, still have no idea about any of this "Do some bracketing of exposures + and - in 1/3rd of a stop increments from the reading given on auto (writing all the info on a card that is in shot!). Also, carefully set the eyepiece diopter then do some focus tests with the camera to see how well you set it. You could even 'bracket' with the eyepiece diopter to confirm correct setting." - sorry

thanks for all help so far
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#13 Michael Lehnert

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 09:51 AM

as regards iris:

switch the camera on, open the film compartment door and look at the camera gate (the assemblage with the hole pointing towards the lens, with the moving pull-down claw on the side. Now try to look as much as possible through the camera gate so that you see through the hole by bringing the camera close or alongside to your head. Alternatively, use a small mirror (shaving mirror or survival mirror) and align that one 45° alongside the inner corner edge of the compartment so that you can see through the camera gate (sorry, sounds terrible complex and my English isn't helping here, but it really is utterly straightforward. Then point the camera into a bright spot and look - when moving it to a darker area and back, you should see with automatic exposure control on how the lamels of the iris in the lens open up and close down when you move the depicted image from dark to light. Try to point it to the sun, so that the iris would close down maximum, then switch without moving the cam from automatic exposure control to manual aperture control ('manual'), thus fixing the iris opening (a.k.a. the f-stop). Look through the viewfinder to see what f-stop number is given.


as regards battery lifetime:

depending on usage, they should hold for several years! No need for immediate replacements. I am quite sure that most Nizos sold still come with original and still functional batteries.


as regards 75 - 100W: DO NOT use a 100W lamp in a projector designed for 75. The other way around is okay (will have dimmer light). If your source is correct, it's a normal halogen spot set within a shiny-silvery reflector, looking like a satellite dish. You should find such a lamp in lighting stores (I do on Fleet Street) or good hardware stores as they are increasingly used for interior designed flats and houses. Just go with that name to the store and hope that you get a knowledgable sales person. It can be ordered, too. Check the English-language website of Wittner Cinetec in Germany or Widescreen Centre in the UK, as they also list projector lamps.


as regards the footie:

yeah, can see your point about Germany. Have a German passport, but wanted to see Turkey go through... well, didn't happen as the Mannschaft delivered in the end, as they always do. And there won't be a new Stalingrad in the final either (to quote a German newspaper). So: Spain all the way :lol: !
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#14 Alessandro Malfatti

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 07:17 PM

You should be careful when buying bulbs in hardware stores, for projection the mirror should be flat... well not flat, but without the "texture" that bulbs for ilumination have. I have to admit I've never tried using those, but I was advised quite some time ago not to use those. The Voltage and Wattage should be legible on the outside of the socket (The round part between the pins and the reflector). A 12V 100W bulb is a EFP, a 75W one is a EFN (According to Osram). Hope I could help a little.
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#15 Jim Carlile

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 03:20 AM

The easiest way to see if the iris blades are functioning is to hold the camera on your lap and point it back and forth in front of a light source, say a nearby lamp, or even shine a flashlight into the lens.

Then, look way down into the light path and see if you notice anything opening and closing. You might have to move the camera a little to get the right angle. If you move the light source in front of the lens and see the blades opening and closing in response, it's working.

This is also a good way to check if the internal 85 filter works-- just slide the switch back and forth and notice if it goes into the path.

Make sure the camera and the meter are on!
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