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#1 Vincenzo Condorelli AIC

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 11:50 AM

i'll have to shoot in this location for a scene in the upcoming project i'll be shooting on s16mm 7218 500t and not having a color temp meter i'm not sure about the nature of the lights over the pool tables.

this is a resized jpg from a raw pic that i took of the place with my dslr (the metadata says it was shot at 3000 K):

http://img142.images...onarch01jv9.jpg

this is a pic taken by the director and i presume it was tungsten balanced:

http://img58.imagesh...dsc01431qf6.jpg

the second one shows the lights from the ceiling being much warmer than the table lights, the director wants to keep both lights on for script reasons, as i'd prefer to use just the table lights as practicals. in any case, what kind of lights are the ones on the tables? how should i match them? how should i balance them for shooting on 500t? what if i have to keep both lights on?

thx you...
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#2 David Rakoczy

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 01:07 PM

in any case, what kind of lights are the ones on the tables? how should i match them? how should i balance them for shooting on 500t? what if i have to keep both lights on?

thx you...
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Call the Location and ask them to tell you what is written on the Pool Table Globes.

If they are 5500k use HMIs or Tungsten with Full... or even Half Blue. Half Blue on Tungsten would be a safe area between the Pool Table Lights and the Ceiling Lights.

Don't worry about the Ceiling Lights.. they aren't Lighting much and will look interesting on.. even when very warm. Let them go...

Be sure to shoot your Color Chart with Half Blue should you go this route.

Edited by David Rakoczy, 06 August 2008 - 01:10 PM.

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#3 David E. McMurray

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Posted 18 August 2008 - 11:12 PM

I guess I'm an old fashioned control freek. I would use 3200K bulbs and augment with tungsten lights as necessary. Worse case for cost, shoot with normal 2800K bulbs and augment with 3200K lights. I personally feel people do notice a lack of color balance, just because they can not articulate it, does not mean they don't feel it.

And don't let the director tell you how to light unless he is a better D.P. than you, or you are getting paid. Because some times... they are a better D.P.!

Thanks,
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#4 Vincenzo Condorelli AIC

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 04:06 PM

i was on location today and i checked by myself...the lights on the table are cool white neons manifactured by philips (both circular and linear) does that mean that i'll be safe with ctb (whether full or half) or do i have to gel them with minus green?

besides that, i was taking some readings with my lightmeter for the wide shot that the director wants (tracking out with the talent and pan to a wide shot of the entire room). i tried to strike all the lights on the tables (i''ll have 16 tables in shot) and of course even rating my lightmeter at 500 asa (which is the 7219 vision 3 im going to shoot) i couldnt get to f 1.3 (the speed of my lenses set).

that's cause the lights are centered on the tables and the spill is not enough to get the exposure. though the reading on the centre of each table is around 2.8 and 1/5 i need to fill in with ambient light. i want to keep it low key cause i like the look of such pools of light (the table) popping out. rating the stock at 320 asa, if i shoot the scene at 2.8 and 1/5 i want the ambient to be 2 stops under so that the talent in the middle of the room will be underexposed, but with enough details. i cannot light from the top, i do not have anything fancy like space light and the only side i can light from the floor is right of camera (from the side).

will a 2.5 hmi (thru diffusion) and a 2k on a egg crate be enough?

thx for your feedback...
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#5 David Rakoczy

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 04:32 PM

Vincenzo, it is hard to tell what your Gel Package will need to be without a Color Temp Meter.

That said, the Pool Tables Lights can be a bit 'cooler' as they will also be hotter. That is why I (personally) don't mind seeing the 'warm' sconces in the ceiling as that helps motivate the use of 1/2 Blue on Tungsten Units (between the Warm Ceiling Lights and the Cooler Pool Table Lights.

As far as your 'Fill' goes.. just take a little more than what you think you need.. like three 10ks that you can bounce or punch thru Diffusers. That is a large (Dark) room..
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#6 Vincenzo Condorelli AIC

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 04:40 PM

i know david, it's a big room and it's giving me a big headache lol...one problem is that i cannot find a color temp meter in this country so i assume that the color temp of the neons will be around 4200K (but it might slightly vary from one to the other). now, their green spike could be acceptable because there's a lot of green in the frame, still 'd like to have some control of what im shooting...

for the ambient, did you mean 1K or 10K? i guess 1K...10k is way beyond the amp i can pull out of the location (no genie for this one)...

one last thing...i'll also have a couple of night exteriors under mercury vapor street lights...for that i was thinking to match them with peacock blue + 1/4 of plus green...what do you think?

thx a lot...
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#7 David Rakoczy

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 05:06 PM

10ks.. but if amps are a problem I'd take a couple 1200 Pars and run 1/2 CTO on them.

For the Street Lights, do you mean Metal Halide (Green/ Blue) or Sodium Vapor (very Orange)?

What country are you in? What City?

Edited by David Rakoczy, 19 August 2008 - 05:06 PM.

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#8 Vincenzo Condorelli AIC

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 05:26 PM

i'm in tel aviv, israel...for street lights i mean metal halide...the ones where my location is seem to my eye they seem more greenish than what i'm used to in europe that's why i was thinking peacock blue + 1/4 plus green...for the billiard room though a couple of 1200 par could be a good solution thx...thru diffusion of course...maybe the overall green of the frame will work without gelling the table lights...
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