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K3 first time footage


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#1 Curtis Bouvier

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:47 AM

first time shooting with film too for that matter :lol:


I found an Absolutely incredible place here in canada that scans at 480P, at any frame rate you want. NO NTSC or 2:3 pulldown.

saved directly to DVD (Data Disc with AVI file)

for a good price.

anyway, this is my first film footage, first time using a light meter.

One thing I must say is the exposure latitude of 50D is amazing.

I just went with a rule of thumb some one said,,, (11and1/3 stops in sunlight, 8and1/3 stops in the shade)
and this is how it all turned out.

(sunset was F2.8)

Viewable here on youtube (click the high quality feature so it looks and sounds better)



--Ultra high copy here: ---> http://www.sendspace.com/file/4s4ico


the whole point of this film was to mainly just see if the K3 worked properly, so everything was pretty random. I just put it together in post as best I could to help make it more enjoyable.

hope you guys like it.
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#2 Ira Ratner

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 08:25 AM

Hey Curtis--I'm downloading the high-quality now. Don't know if you saw my question in the the other thread, but do you remember when you loaded your K-3, were the perfs up or down? I'm going to experiment loading mine with leader today, but all of the YouTube instructional videos showed double perf.

Maybe it doesn't make a difference, but I just want to be sure.
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#3 Ian Cooper

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 12:04 PM

Perfs go towards the bottom of the camera.

Fresh film at the top, take-up spool at the bottom.
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#4 Curtis Bouvier

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 12:17 PM

yea the pull down claw comes downward so I don't think you could accidently put it in the wrong way!

put it in from the top.

to greatly reduce the chance of it getting jammed as your feeding it through the mechanics, cut the corners off the front of the film.

when I left the corners on mine it jammed almost every time because the sharp pointy corners kept catching on something in the end of the track (some plastic piece right before getting to the take up spool)
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#5 Ira Ratner

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 01:20 PM

yea the pull down claw comes downward so I don't think you could accidently put it in the wrong way!

put it in from the top.

to greatly reduce the chance of it getting jammed as your feeding it through the mechanics, cut the corners off the front of the film.

when I left the corners on mine it jammed almost every time because the sharp pointy corners kept catching on something in the end of the track (some plastic piece right before getting to the take up spool)


Cut the corners--that makes sense!

But the reason I was asking about the perfs is that I'm not using real film. I'm going to be practicing my loading with leader. I know how alive load is supposed to spool off the reel, but I never HAD one to see whether the perfs are on top or bottom.

THANKS!

Edited by Ira Ratner, 09 August 2008 - 01:24 PM.

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#6 Michael Althaus

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 01:58 PM

some of the better fake muzzle flashes I have seen. How did you do them?
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#7 Curtis Bouvier

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 02:18 PM

my live load from what I saw had no intention of spooling off the reel ("you'd think it would tho!!")

when I loaded it, i left it completely lose for a bit in the dark when i was loading it. it didnt un-spool the slightest bit.

if you have practice film and its wound backwards for whatever reason then it will love to unspool itself!

so don't worry too much about that.

this is with Kodak 50D though, no idea about FujiFilm...

I think canned film likes to un-spool too if given the chance, from what I hear anyway, does anybody here know if this is correct?
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#8 Curtis Bouvier

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 02:24 PM

a Very particular technique i've been mastering for years.

the blow back and smoke is real

the brass and flashes are done with photoshop CS3.

this cannot be done properly with after effects as most people tend to think...

photoshop cs3 is a requirement.

its a burning technique that I stumbled across one day (after trying countless other methodes through trial and error)

this process allows you to shape and control the fire rather than just taking a picture of a flash and layering it over (which is what 98% of people usually do)

here's a before and after comparison.

http://img374.images...ompare1aqd2.jpg
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