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LED 1000 by Flolight


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#1 Justin Lovell

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Posted 12 August 2008 - 12:20 PM

I am about to purchase this LED 1000:
http://www.prompterp...com/led1000.php (specs found here).
100w, 12vDC (10-15, no higher), 100-240v ac 50/60, 10amp draw

1. What battery would power this light for approx 1.5 - 3 hours? (I will be getting 3 of these lights, so will be looking for a cost effective and not too heavy solution). Most likely a single battery for each light, not 1 massive battery to power all 3.
2. Looking ideally for battery suppliers in Toronto who you could recommend. I'd like to pickup rather than ship the product.

These were recommended to me:
Motomaster Eliminator 1,200A PowerBox
http://www.canadiant...D=1218560950472
(A little bigger than I would hope to have it).
Bescor PRB-24 Heavy Duty 12Volt 24 Amp
http://www.markertek...amp;pagesize=20
A little more expensive than hoped, figuring I would be better off getting multiple 'eliminator' style batteries such as:
Duracell Powerpack 300
http://www.tigerdire...a...76&csid=_21
Though, I don't know how long the light would run for on this battery.

Advice? Anyone have a similar setup?


Thanks,
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#2 Mitch Gross

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Posted 12 August 2008 - 04:43 PM

Volts X Amps = Watts.

If it is a 100w unit then at 12v it will draw a little over 8amps. So the 24amp Duracell unit would run it for almost three hours. That's your cheap solution, although you'll likely need a cable or adapter to plug one into the other. Be sure to fully recharge that battery right away or you'll kill it.
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#3 Justin Lovell

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Posted 12 August 2008 - 05:06 PM

Interesting.
Forgive my lack of knowledge about electricity.
How did you figure that the duracell battery is 24A ? is that approx equal to 240W ?

The Xantrex rep told me to go with the 1200a Eliminator Power box and said that should give me 2.5-3 hours running time. That doesn't seem to match up with what you're saying about the Duracell 300a, if that would give me 3 hours.. doesn't seem right to me..?
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#4 Mitch Gross

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 03:15 PM

I read the stats on the link you provided incorrectly. The 12vdc output has 14amps, not 24. The Bescor is 24amps.
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#5 Justin Lovell

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 04:23 PM

I read the stats on the link you provided incorrectly. The 12vdc output has 14amps, not 24. The Bescor is 24amps.


Alright, so then what are you saying? (forgive my lack of knowledge).
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#6 Mitch Gross

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 10:40 AM

The light is 100w. Battery is 12v. Divide 100 by 12 and you get an 8.4amp draw per hour. So a 24amp battery would last a little under three hours and a 14amp battery would last about 100 minutes. And realistically, these run times should always be trimmed about 10% because the batteries begin to fail as they get near te end of their charge, and the lamps may dim to the point of being unusable.
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#7 Phil Rhodes

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 11:05 AM

And realistically, these run times should always be trimmed about 10%


I'd say at least 10%. Take into account every loss you can think of (including the fact that batteries are usually characterised using unrealistically low currents) and they'll often do two-thirds to three-quarters what it says on the can.

P
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#8 Chris Keth

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 08:03 PM

Why not get anton plates and a few of the thinner dionics? Anton batteries are so easy to come by and are very reliable.
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#9 Justin Lovell

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 08:30 PM

That sounds cool, can you provide me with some links/contacts on where I can get those batteries?
I'll be in NY this week so I could buy them there, unless there is a place in Canada that I could order from.

I would be concerned about the anton bauer batteries though, as I don't know if they make one that will supply a 100W draw.
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#10 Mitch Gross

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 02:02 AM

Justin, if you're in NYC this week, come by our shop. We can set you up with what you'll need. Feel free to ask for me.
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#11 Chris Keth

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 02:32 AM

That sounds cool, can you provide me with some links/contacts on where I can get those batteries?
I'll be in NY this week so I could buy them there, unless there is a place in Canada that I could order from.

I would be concerned about the anton bauer batteries though, as I don't know if they make one that will supply a 100W draw.


I admittedly don't know the wattage draw of them, but I've used Anton-powered 1x1 foot litepanels. They're probably similar in power consumption.
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#12 David Auner aac

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 04:03 AM

Why not get anton plates and a few of the thinner dionics? Anton batteries are so easy to come by and are very reliable.


Hi Justin,

You might also look at V-mount battery packs. Anton Bauer is pretty scarce here in Europe and much more expensive. Don't know about North America though, but you might have a lower cost with these. And you don't need to buy expensive IDX or Sony packs, you can go with the Swit brand if available, these are really good value for their money.

Regards, Dave
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#13 Justin Lovell

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:50 AM

Great, thanks Mitch.
Do you have a website or a contact number for your store, I'll probably give you a call first. I'm staying at the www.chopwood.com production studio (195 Chrystie st.). Dunno if that is nearby.


Justin
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#14 Michael Morlan

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:12 PM

Mitch, I believe you should technically be rating the capacity of the battery as 24 amphours, not 24 amps.

Regarding the LED 1000, I am suspect of any instrument that claims an equivalent light output to a tungsten source without actually providing luminance charts and ratings. Which tungsten source using which lens system? A 1kW Mole-Richardson Baby fresnel has a different light output (440fc @ 20ft fully spotted 9deg beam angle) than a 1kW Mole-Richardson Mickey open-face (330fc @ 20ft fully spotted 14deg beam angle.) Each instrument's beam spread can also be adjusted where the fixed 30-degree LED solution cannot except with diffusion.

When I write about useful luminance charts, I refer to these:

Comparison Luminance Charts

Definitely do your research. Even better, pull out your meter (or borrow a friend's) and compare.

M
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#15 Walter Graff

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 08:08 PM

"Forgive my lack of knowledge about electricity."

And that is the reason why you should not do what you are doing. You know little about it and dc current can be dangerous. You can be blinded, burnt, and even worse. Do you know how long the cable runs are? Are you aware of the wire gauge necessary for such a run? If the batts are next to the fixture your fine. But if they run 20 feet or more, you need certain gauge wires to be safe. Also, while the mathematical current of 100 watts is 8.3 amps, you always round it off to 9 amps per fixture for safety.

As for time? Take the Duracell. It is rated at 14 amp hours. it will run a 100 watt fixture at 9 amps for 1.5 hours. But this is also a perfect mathematical number and realistically as the voltage drops in a battery resistance is increased in that battery meaning you will get closer to 1.2 hours if everything is perfect. It never is. 24 volts might give you 2 hours. And fixtures like this usually have minimum voltage thresholds so you might loose power even quicker if that is the case as can be with solid state circuits such as how these fixtures work.

Bottom line, if you don't know what you are doing, find someone who is to set this up for you properly if it involves more than simply plugging in connectors.

My next question is why batteries? That is an awful lot of money to spend on a battery operated fixture. Also, while they loosely specify comparisons to tungsten, I'd bet these lights aren't nearly the kind of light that an equivalent would give. More like a beam of light similar to a flashlight than the spread you get from a real lamp. I was in on the ground working on LED fixtures years before others took on the idea and started selling them and I can tell you that LED are not the same light as conventional bulbs. One of the reasons I stopped my r/d, LEDs just aren't ready for prime time as anything more than niche lighting.
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