Posted 09 September 2008 - 12:18 AM
If this is the case, why not make an array of 10 X 10 lamps to get a 12K that only draws around 3K?
Posted 09 September 2008 - 02:00 AM
Someone please correct me if I'm not completely accurate on some of these points, I'm not an electrician
Posted 09 September 2008 - 03:04 PM
Cost of 12K (3000W) Compact flo DIY light? I'm guessing around $900.00 depending on how handy a person is with metal and wiring. Of course, I don't know if it would melt the plastic ballast covers on the lamps or anything like that. They recommend not putting them in enclosed lamp houses. So, I'm thinking their guts are heat sensitive. It would be a broad only, as well.
I'm just musing.
Posted 11 September 2008 - 12:58 AM
The hard light of undiffused tungsten or HMI will have more throw than your broad 3K flo panel. Shadows would be cast differently. You can use a hard light for projection of cookies but never could with your 3K panel.
What you'll have is really something more like a homemade Fisher light or huge softbox and would most appropriately be used in the places where you'd use such a light like for car photography / video / film use.
You just can't turn a fluorescent bulb into a hard source no matter what you do and it would never be suitable for use in a fresnel or have a lot of throw. HMI is the king of energy efficient hard light and you can get the 4 to 1 leverage there too like you can with fluorescents--also remembering though that HMI fixtures get very hot but the light output is cool like fluorescent without all the infrared that comes from a tungsten light.
And yes, the guts are heat sensitive so you'd want to pay attention to natural ventilation and not restricting air flow if you want to keep the bulbs going for a long time.
Edited by Richard Andrewski, 11 September 2008 - 01:00 AM.
Posted 12 September 2008 - 11:06 AM
What's the flicker concerns on those things?
Posted 12 September 2008 - 01:08 PM
On the horizon is Luxim's LIFI technology, which can more than double the lumens per watt you get from CFL, with better color. They have a notch, but no spikes in their spectrum.
Posted 12 September 2008 - 01:14 PM
The guys in the link above were selling those for $10.00 each on large enough orders. I can't account for if they're any good or not. Do you know those guys source for 500 and 1000 watt units? $50.00 sounds cheaper than a pile of smaller lamps.
The new technology you mentioned sounds interesting. Please, keep us informed.
Posted 12 September 2008 - 06:16 PM
A 200w CFL is about the largest with some rare exceptions that you will find around the market. Assuming a good power factor in its ballast it would put out about the equivalent of 700w worth of light--comparing to tungsten behind diffusion. That bulb is normally in an "8U" configuration which means that there are 8 flo tube "U"s attached to the ballast in its base and it will normally also use a mogul (E39 or E40) base so you need to use a larger socket. Lastly, while you might get away with it, I wouldn't use plastic sockets. Go for ceramic, you'll have greater peace of mind.
Posted 14 September 2008 - 02:00 PM
These are cheaper per watt than the 200W units. Just from the look of them, I'm guessing you could line them up in a row at about 12 and have a fixture roughly 3 feet wide by 1.5 feet tall and about 6 inches deep. It would kick out 6KW at a CRI of 93 and plug into a wall socket with no troubles. Clip a sheet of frost in front and you've got a broad to fill softly in window lit interiors. All for around $650.00 in lamps and parts. I'm glad to hear that the flicker isn't a problem. Another benefit is that you can put the smaller CFLs into the scene lamps and be color groovy all the way through the shot: scene lamps, high KW fill lamps and windows without the hassle of gelling or lens filtering. At about 24 lbs. they wouldn't need monster stands. None of that ballast hassle. No sunburned cast and a lot less heat.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 12:49 PM