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35mm Lens adapter questions


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#1 Jonathan Burton

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Posted 09 September 2008 - 10:56 PM

I am hiring a P+S 35mm lens adapter for my upcoming shoot in October. Money is tight, in fact its gone on the hiring of this thing. However they recommend a matte box and follow focus to go with it which is an extra bunch of cash i really don't have. I understand the benefits of these items, but my question is this: Do you think i can get by without, or is this pretty critical? (i don't have many focus pulls, its more just the matte box I am concerned with) Any help would be great.
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#2 Allen Achterberg

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Posted 09 September 2008 - 11:04 PM

look for a redrock m2 or letus extreme setup, so you can have the matte box and follow focus. dont blow your budget on gear! save some money for other things, like food for those who help. give them a reason to help again next time.
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#3 Jonathan Burton

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 01:15 AM

look for a redrock m2 or letus extreme setup, so you can have the matte box and follow focus. dont blow your budget on gear! save some money for other things, like food for those who help. give them a reason to help again next time.


Thanks Allen. I have money put aside for catering and other expenses, its just my hiring budget that is all out. I have a good deal on this equipment and don't really want to look for a different option, I really just want to know if you think i can get away without the Matte box?
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#4 john anderson

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 01:36 PM

What Allen said.

However, since you have a deal...

Focus pulling is often difficult to do hands-on with still photography lenses. So, just make the best of it and ensure that the shots you need with racked focus can actually be performed. If you don't have breathing issues, then it's all about the hand on the gear. Last minute shooting on caffeine overload doesn't improve racking for noobs... or cam geezers for that matter. Take your measurements, make your marks, and take your shots (and chances). You'll do it anyway, it's just easier if you de-couple the force from the lens.

Whether or not you need a box depends on the lighting. For many shots, you do. It's all about the lighting and camera position. Try to visualize any possible problems in advance and alter the plan if needed. Otherwise: cardboard, black gaffers tape, and black foil make great raw material for matte boxes and french flags. You did budget for gaffers tape and foil, neh? If not - make it so!
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#5 Jonathan Burton

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 07:31 AM

look for a redrock m2 or letus extreme setup, so you can have the matte box and follow focus. dont blow your budget on gear! save some money for other things, like food for those who help. give them a reason to help again next time.


Hey, just another quick question. Did you suggest the redrock because it is better or cheaper than the P+S? In fact, has anyone had dealings with the P+S, if so can you give me any feedback?
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#6 Morgan Lowndes

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 11:00 AM

hi jonathan

are you using the pro35 or mini35? and is there a set of lenses included, if so are they stills lenses or PL mount?
i have never used the mini35 but i have used the pro35, movietube, letus and brevis with a variety of PL and stills lenses...
cheers

morgs
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#7 Jonathan Burton

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 06:10 PM

hi jonathan

are you using the pro35 or mini35? and is there a set of lenses included, if so are they stills lenses or PL mount?
i have never used the mini35 but i have used the pro35, movietube, letus and brevis with a variety of PL and stills lenses...
cheers

morgs


I am using the Mini 35 with a Sony Z1p. I am also hiring a kit of Zeiss Mk2 (T2.1) primes with PL mounts. So what do you think, i should get some good results with that set up? Also here is another question that just occurred to me, (yes i know it started out as just one question, but oh well :rolleyes: ) Will this setup affect my shooting aspect ratio. The Z1p has a 16:9 chip, so in HDV mode, you can only shoot in this format.
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#8 Morgan Lowndes

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 04:01 AM

you shouldnt have any probs shooting 16:9.
ive only used the t1.3 superspeeds and the quality was fantastic. dont stop down more than t4 because youll see the grain of the mini35 and remember youll be loosing a couple stops of light to begin with.
do some tests with the ground glass running at different speeds to see where you find the least grain.
the hire company will probably be happy to show you how it all works.
have fun!
morgs
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#9 Andrew Koch

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 05:16 AM

I would avoid the redrock. It is cheaper, but the cost savings are not worth the pain in the a**, With the redrock, the image is upside down so you have to flip all of your monitors upside down to view the image on set. The Letus adaptor might be a bit cheaper than the mini 35. It doesn't flip the image and you only lose about 1/2 a stop, whereas most other adaptors cut light by a whopping 2 stops, although I'm not sure if the optical quality is as good as the P+S. That said, any of these adaptors will make your image less sharp.
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#10 Danny Lachman

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 09:29 PM

You should be absolutely fine. You could put cardboard over the lens for flare if you had to, and the focus racking is minimal so you should be good.
I've noticed the cinema zeiss, panavision, cooke lenses don't really make a noticeable difference with these 35mm adapters. I'd go for cheap nikons or canons in your case - just save the money instead of buying something you won't be able to see on the screen.
my 2cents.

Edited by Danny Lachman, 12 September 2008 - 09:32 PM.

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#11 Jonathan Burton

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 08:11 AM

You should be absolutely fine. You could put cardboard over the lens for flare if you had to, and the focus racking is minimal so you should be good.
I've noticed the cinema zeiss, panavision, cooke lenses don't really make a noticeable difference with these 35mm adapters. I'd go for cheap nikons or canons in your case - just save the money instead of buying something you won't be able to see on the screen.
my 2cents.


Thanks for the replies everyone! So Danny, are you saying that the 35mm adapters don't make any visible difference in your opinion, or that they are effective, but it is hard to tell the difference between a good lens and a cheap lens when using one? I have seen a lot of test footage with various adapter setups, and they seem to make a huge difference to me, hence me hiring one :P
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#12 Danny Lachman

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Posted 15 September 2008 - 09:55 PM

Naw, I was just saying that different lens manufacturers don't seem to make a big difference on the 35mm adapters. I'm sure the P+S technik is definitely a better designed and quality adapter over the others though.
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#13 Satsuki Murashige

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 07:03 PM

Keep in mind also, most adapters work best when the taking lens is wider than T4. Stopped down further than that, you'll start to see the pattern of the ground glass. So if you're shooting in bright conditions, you will need ND filters (the internal camera NDs won't help because they sit behind the ground glass), and thus a matte box. It's worth nothing that the P+S Technik has an ND filter wheel built in, while the Redrock does not.

* I've used Master Primes on a mini35 (on an HVX, for the web!) and I can tell you it did not appear any sharper than the same setup with Super Speeds. So I'm inclined to agree with Danny.

Edited by Satsuki Murashige, 16 September 2008 - 07:07 PM.

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#14 Chris Keth

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 09:02 PM

I would get properly calibrated lenses made for film production rather than lenses made for still photography. Beyond that I don't think the exact series of lens matters.

I say this because it will help your 1st AC work much more efficiently. If he/she has lenses with distance markings that can be counted on, gearing that is solid, and a focus scale that is spread out nicely he will be able to do a much better job. Also, the camera won't have to be monopolized for a time every setup while he gets eye focus for all of the marks in the scene. I haven't seen still photography lenses yet with distance marks that are useful for our purposes.
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