This time, all dolly pictures
Posted 05 October 2008 - 10:57 AM
First, we have eight 3" L brackets with what I recall were 3/8" bolts. These were Stanley brand brackets available at Home Depot, and the pre-drilled holes position were perfect for roller blade wheels. (Since I'm not 100% sure they were 3/8" bolts, check if you decide to do this, that the bolt fits in the hole. They DID require a slight zets with the hammer.)
Next, we put adult-size roller blade wheels on there. And old roller blades can be found at any yard sale for next to nothing:
Other sides of bolts get nylocks, which I didn't show because I respect my audience's intelligence here.
Repeat 4 times:
Next, cut 4 blocks of wood approximately 3" square--could be more or less, doesn't really matter, as long as they're all the same size. You're supposed to use 2 by 4 which actually measures 1 1 1/2 by 3 1/2--but I couldn't rationalize buying a stick of 2 by 4 since I already had a piece 1 by 4 lying around, so I laminated two pieces together for each.
I painted and drilled a hole in the center:
(Yes, these came out looking like crap, but they still work. I know that YOU'LL do a much better job!)
Next, we attach the wheel assemblies to each block screwing into the remaining holes in the bracket. To accommodate the bolt heads, just use a 3/8" drill bit and gauge a hole to accommodate the bolt heads. I ain't winning no woodworking awards for this one, but it seems to work:.
Now, a 3/8" carriage bolt (make sure it's long enough) goes through the wheel assembly into a 2" PVC cap end, then lock washer and regular nut:
These assemblies get connected to this 2" PVC contraption, made up of straight pipe and T connectors:
Use small wood or sheet metal screws anywhere where PVC parts connect. No glue needed since the fit is so tight anyway:
Depending on how tight you connected the wheel assemblies to the end caps, you may notice some play if you apply force. To me, this is NOT a negative, because you WANT it to rotate and follow the rules of gravity anyway, especially when using on uneven terrain.
That's the end of the photos, but next step is mounting the tripod. I have two options:
The instructions for this say to just drill holes into the PVC and stick your legs in there. The center of dolly then gets an eye screw, and you attach a cable/rope/whatever from the bottom of the tripod head to secure.
I don't like this idea, so when my tripod arrives this week (oy, big bucks for me to be spending on a tripod), I'm going to check the leg spread, the design of the feet, and look for a latch mounting solution mounted to surface of the PVC.
My other idea is to cover the entire dolly with a triangular piece of plywood, and work on a tripod mounting solution from there. This idea seems more practical for some working situations, but I'm just not sure. Yes, it will give me more ballast and a place to set things, but it may push me too far away from the viewfinder to be practical.
Anyway, that's it. And although I'm not a religious man, I'm on my knees praying that the photo attachments actually worked.
Posted 16 October 2008 - 10:36 PM
Posted 17 October 2008 - 04:39 AM
So filming on something other than pavement is out of the question with this one?
You lost me:
This has to go on a track which I'm making out of PVC, and I'm HOPING it works okay on grass.
Posted 17 October 2008 - 09:10 PM
I might have used wider wheels, but yours might do the trick. BTW there are internal pvc connectors to join to pipes together with only 2 screws. you can rotate the pipe so the wheels on your dolly never hit these wheels, and depending on how well you make it, the connection point shouldn't be noticeable. It has to be level also by the way.
Posted 18 October 2008 - 02:30 AM
BTW there are internal pvc connectors to join to pipes together with only 2 screws
I've seen people use wooden dowels that fit nice and snug inside the pipes and join them together. Seems to work quite well.
Posted 18 October 2008 - 06:44 AM
I'm going to assemble complete sections of track, say 3' long. Opposite rails on each section are connected to each other by 3 small sticks of furring wood, just screwed into the PVC. The sections then just snap into each other like a model railroad set using wooden dowels. I'm not exactly sure if I can find the exact size dowel for a snug fit for 1" PVC, but if I can't, I figured I could use the next smaller size dowel and wrap with inner tube rubber for a tight yet flexible fit. The challenge will be curved track.
The wood will help prevent sag and is good for crappy terrain, and they'll have some large holes drilled into them so I can stake them down into earth if need be.
Posted 24 October 2008 - 12:26 AM
Posted 24 October 2008 - 07:06 PM
In addition, I'm just a hobbyist...shooting 16mm and no synced sound for now.
I'll be happy if it all just ROLLS okay when I actually shoot for real.