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AAton LTR7 questions


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#1 Marc Roessler

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 04:13 PM

Hi guys..

I got a few questions concerning the Aaton LTR7..

1. How do distinguish magazines convterted to S16 from those not converted to S16? Is milling down the pressure rail in the sound area necessary? Is flipping the roller necessary?

2. When turning the LTR "by hand", you press the inching button and wind anti clockwise, correct? Just how smooth should this movement go? When I press the inching knob, it doesn't turn at all. When i only press it very slightly (just enough for getting a grip) and turn carefully, it works. But this is very hard to do without depressing the inching knob. What's wrong here?

3. Shouldn't the S16 ground glass be centered within the viewfinder horizontally, even with older S16 converted cameras? Or is a slight offset to the right expected?

4. The camera seems to have a modification in the mirror area: felt glued to the edge of the mirror shutter where it's open. I suppose this is a desperate measure against flares.. is this out of the factory oder an "after market" addition...?

Thanks & Greetings,
Marc
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#2 Marc Roessler

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 04:20 PM

Hm I don't seem to be able to include pictures here for whatever reason.. (155 kB of 100 kB used? huh?..)..

Here are some pictures:
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7294.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7306.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7320.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7330.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7336.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7337.JPG
http://de.geocities....TR/IMG_7345.JPG
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#3 Marc Roessler

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 05:26 PM

Oh by the way.. the three linear rubber film guides glued to the inside sides of the feed department of the magazine seem to start to disintegrate: they have a gooey, somewhat oily surface.. any easy replacement for this?
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#4 Saul Rodgar

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 08:41 PM

[/quote]
1. How do distinguish magazines convterted to S16 from those not converted to S16? Is milling down the pressure rail in the sound area necessary? Is flipping the roller necessary?
[/quote]

There are many ways of doing it, milling is preferred by some techs. This also depends on the mag as well and on for cameras designed to fun up to 54 fps, which needs extra -read expensive- attention.

[/quote]
2. When turning the LTR "by hand", you press the inching button and wind anti clockwise, correct? Just how smooth should this movement go? When I press the inching knob, it doesn't turn at all. When i only press it very slightly (just enough for getting a grip) and turn carefully, it works. But this is very hard to do without depressing the inching knob. What's wrong here?
[/quote]

Refer the camera to a tech if the camera motor doesn't run smoothly when used to a properly charged battery. Not all cameras operate exactly the same. In the early days Aaton was constantly tweaking their design and often cameras a couple of hundred serial numbers apart operate different from each other.

[/quote]
3. Shouldn't the S16 ground glass be centered within the viewfinder horizontally, even with older S16 converted cameras? Or is a slight offset to the right expected?
[/quote]

A tech can't correct this if you can't.

[/quote]

4. The camera seems to have a modification in the mirror area: felt glued to the edge of the mirror shutter where it's open. I suppose this is a desperate measure against flares.. is this out of the factory oder an "after market" addition...?
[/quote]

This is not clear to me.

It sounds you just acquired the camera. I would send it to a tech for a check up, it never hurts and can only prolong the life of the camera, as well as answer some of your questions. Les Bosher in the UK and Bernie O'Doherty at Super 16 Inc are excellent choices.

Definitely, disintegrating rubber is NEVER good inside a camera. Must address before use.
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#5 Mitch Gross

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Posted 07 October 2008 - 01:40 AM

That is a very OLD camera. We're talking thirty years or more. There appears to have been some interesting mods over its lifetime. I don't know what the heck that connector and that purple box are on the dummy side. The gate is the old "shiny" chrome one instead of a newer matte black one. Shoot outside at light with streetlights and car headlights passing through frame and you'll see what I mean right away. That inching knob doesn't appear factory standard either. Perhaps someone retrofitted it for use with an intervalometer like a Norris? I'm sure that felt was to help with preventing gate fares. No clue why someone felt it necessary to mill out a chunk of the videotap port cover. Maybe a unique battery rig?

One thing I can help you with is the centering of the 16/Super-16 fiber optic. First you need to determine if your camera is set of standard 16 or Super-16. To do this, shine a light into the eyepiece, look through the lens port and manually rotate the mirror to see how it aligns with the framelines. If it is centered for Super-16 then all the edges will line up. If it is centered for regular 16mm then one of the inner lines on your combi-screen will line up to the side. It is also important to know if your lens mount is centered, although this process changed on different generations of cameras so I don't want to go into that now. Suffice to say that when you zoom in an object in the center of the frame should remain centered, not shift to one side. Assuming your camera is set for Super-16 and the frameline is set correctly to the gate, then there are two points of adjustment to the eyepiece. The first is the simplest: just rotate the outermost part of the eyepiece (just before the right angle that ends with the eyecup) 360 degrees. There can be two seating positions for the prism within and sometimes this is all that is needed to seat it where you want (and I'm guessing that's the case here from your photo). If that doesn't do it then the other option is to align the entire viewfinder assembly correctly to the fiber optic screen. The viewfinder and handle attach to the camera via four 2mm hex bolts. Remove these bolts (don't loose 'em or let them fall into the camera!) and there should be a small metal shim all of 1mm thick resting on one side or the other. If it is on the left two bolts then it needs to be moved over to the right two and then the bolts reattached. (I may have gotten the left/right backwards as it's been awhile and it's late). This is shoving your viewfinder over by 2mm, which is the proper recentering difference between 16mm and Super-16.

For all else, take the camera to a tech who knows how to service it. As the North American distributor for Aaton, Abel does this work all the time.
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#6 Marc Roessler

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Posted 07 October 2008 - 02:04 AM

Thanks for all your replies so far..

Yes I just aquired the camera... and I'm actually not that thrilled with it... It was sold as "ready to go" so I'm a bit surprised in a negative way...

It also was sold as "with s16 converted mags", so I'd be interested if they actually are - does not seem like that to me, I'd be happy if anyone could comment on this...

According to the gate/flares, do you mean the actual gate or the chrome pressure pad at the back? In case it is the gate itself, I guess the effect will be some wild flares bouncing off the gate edge? Does anyone happen to have some pictures on what this will typically look like?

Will check the S16 viewfinder centering etc this night..

Greetings,
Marc
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