Fist time poster here. Been lurking round these parts for a few months now, thought I should step up to the plate and ask some questions. Go easy!
Soon, I'm going to be filming a live rock band, for one song, simultaneously with four different S8 cameras. I've organised crew and will be able to obtain sound straight from the desk for syncing in post-production. This will be in a modest sized indoor venue that is fit enough to host international bands. I've never been there but I'm told the capacity, sound system and lighting facilities are by no means lacking. I'll be inspecting it first hand this Saturday night, on a gig night to see it for myself.
Here are some youtube clips for a rough idea of the location:
I've done this type of project before, with the same band (not the above bands in the link), except at an inferior venue using Tri-X. Whilst I was generally pleased with the results there was still room for improvement. This was mostly due the Tri-X not being able to keep up with somewhat poor lighting arrangement.
So.....I want to give it another go except this time using Kodak Vision3 500T as it seems that this film stock will be ideal for such a situation. Using colour film indoors and catching movement in clarity will be an added bonus.
I will be using a Canon 814AZ, 518SV, 310XL and Beaulieu 1008XL.
My main concern is with over-exposure. I know I'm probably beating a dead horse by bringing up such an overdone topic here but I'm still not quite sure what to expect. I've never used negative film before and I hope to get the "best" possible film speed out this stock, with the cameras I have.
That said, from my research, using 500T, the 518SV and 1008XL should drop down to 250 as they both can read up to 400ASA Tungsten.
As for the Canon 814AZ and 310XL, they should drop down to 160 as they both read up to 250ASA Tungsten. Am I correct on this?
Now, I've read by cutting out the notch filter you can bring the speed back up to next level, against how Kodak have designed the film to be over-exposed by 1 stop and effectively cutting down the exposure.
Kind of a moot question I guess, since it's all relative to how strong the lighting is and how I set the cameras in their different positions, but is it REALLY worth my while performing notch hacks on any of these cameras? I have a particular concern with the Canon 310XL as it is very sensitive to light. How forgiving will the Vision 3 500T be?
Will I get finer grain by not using 500T to overexpose to what Kodak have set it to be stock?
Sorry for the lengthy post.
Edited by Christopher Curry, 14 January 2009 - 11:28 AM.