Joining the camera to the Lens I attached a simple Polarized Filter (with the filter glass removed), attached that to a 58mm-67mm step up ring. The ring is then attached to a lens hood, which was screwed onto the Anamorphic lens. This allows me to adjust the focus ring without moving the Anamorpher.
I was able to get the hood, step up ring and polarizer for about $7 by digging through the Misc. used accessories box at my local camera shop.
*Lens alignment looks slightly crooked because I did a quick reassembly for the picture after doing some tests with a video camera earlier.
I also want to voice my opinion on anamorphic filming is the way to go as opposed to Max 8. Not only is the aspect ratio more fun to work with, but you are actually using the entire area of the film as opposed to having nearly 1/4 of it cropped out. This yields in higher image quality, and you don't have to worry about staying "inside the lines" to avoid having a part of your work getting cut.
You can still get the High Def. Scan if you choose, and instruct the telecine operator weather to have it morphed to 16:9 or leave it stretched with letter box on the sides. Either way, you will be un-morphing it in post to get the proper aspect ratio. You can also get great results doing a home HD telecine.
True, there are a few disadvantages to shooting it anamorphed, but they are easily remedied.
1. True, you usually have to be zoomed in at least 20mm to avoid seeing the inside of the lens, but you can simply plan your shoots around this by allowing your self space to be far enough back that it wont matter.
2. A big issue is that with an Anamorphic lens you usually have to be at least a meter or so away from the subject to have it in clear focus. This is easily remedied by placing a Diopter in front of the Anamorph. I have been mere inches away from the subject and still have it in clean focus using a 4+ diopter (the down side is the extremely shallow DoF, but I think that is to be expected filming in close proximity).
3. Distortion of vertical lines. Just always be sure you have the camera mounted on a leveled tripod. Once that is done, the horizontal field will never change and you shouldn't run into any distortion. (if for some reason you do, you can simply correct this in post, in much the same way that you used to correct the aspect ratio. True, with the lens you cannot have any oblique angle shots, but I think it is worth the trade off.
Sorry if I've just rambled off a bunch of stuff that you already might know, but I figured a few people could benefit off my trials and errors.
All in all, I got the lens off ebay for $80 (including shipping), and I built the mount for roughly $27. As a result, I can now shoot widescreen 8mm, and I didn't have to fork over the $1500 or what ever it is that Pro 8mm charges to basically cheat you out of even more film area than they already do. (referring to the cropping and under-loaded cartridges.)
Edited by Will von Tagen, 27 January 2009 - 07:20 PM.