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Nikon R10 Modification and Motor Problem


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#1 Matt Kemp

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 04:47 AM

Hi All,

I've been given a Nikon R10, which I'd really like to get up and running.
The electric zoom and lightmeter both appear to work perfectly, but the motor drive does nothing at all when the trigger is fully depressed..
I've never used a Nikon camera before, so was researching if anyone had experienced similar problems, and realised that this camera has a switch on the back which is not in any of the manuals or pictures from the internet, and so can be assumed to be some kind of modification.
I wonder if anyone has seen anything like this before, what the mod might be for, and indeed if it's possible that it's this switch that is causing the motor not to run.

I've attached a picture below (apologies for the quality - it's supposed to illustrate the switch at the back).

Any help appreciated, would be great to get this lovely camera working

Best,

Matt
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#2 andy oliver

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 11:45 AM

Hi Matt, its been about a year since i owned an R10 and i dont recall that switchon the rear of my camera. Reckon its some kind of mod, perhaps and i'm only guessing, some kind of crystal synch mod, i wonder if you require another part to plug into a jack on the camera for the motor to run. I'm only guessing. Looks like the mice have been at your eyecup rubber :lol:
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#3 Matt Kemp

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:00 PM

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the reply. Crystal sync mod would be nice, but I can't see any other tell-tale signs..
I'm not sure if the mod could be that advanced that it stops the motor drive running unless it's connected either..

To be honest I'm a bit in the dark with Nikons, I've only ever had Nizos.

Anyway thanks for writing, any more thoughts welcome.

Cheers,

Matt
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#4 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:50 PM

The switch is definitely a homebrew mod. We can only guess what the purpose is. You would have to take the left panel off to see where the wires go. The motor is close to the new switch. If that has anything has to do with it...

With NIKON R10 and R8 it happens at times that the REV/FOR switch on the left panel is unintended on REV. The camera then only exposes 100 frames and stops by itself. And only starts again when you slide it to FOR again. :)
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#5 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:01 PM

oh, and check the batteryholder contacts. on the clip and inside in the camera...
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#6 Matt Kemp

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 07:46 PM

Andries,

Thanks for the message. After some more days messing about with the camera, I think you're right, the only way of seeing if it will ever run again is to tear off the leatherette and open it up.

Kind of a shame, I wonder how the person who added the mod managed it.

Maybe I could re-cover it with faux carbon fibre, or some other contemporary equivalent of leather embossed pvc.

Cheers

Matt
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#7 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 04 November 2009 - 03:36 PM

Opening is not too difficult. Would be interesting to see what they modified into the camera. I really am into these R10 camera's.
First you need to take off the EE knob. See if you can take off the metal cover disc and then take out the screw.
The left side leatherette should lightly be warmed and then be peeled off. It has been done before because of the mod. It now depend on the glue they used.
After it is off you wil find a number of screws which hold the left cover. Take them out and lift the cover. There is some extra wiring for the switch.
Then start the discovery. Mind the controls. Don't displace these because otherwise placing it back becomes a hassle.
You can use it without the leatherette. Paint the panel for effect or use a replacement fabric.


You could have it checked by retro8 in Tokyo:
Nikon R10 repair address

Likely the work isn't to expensive. The shipping could be more of a problem.
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#8 Matt Kemp

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Posted 07 November 2009 - 07:04 PM

Hi Andries,

Thanks very much for your reply. I did exactly as you said, lifted the leather and opened up the side. A bit of gentle blowing and prodding inside got the motor running again! It seemed the motor at the top straight up from the trigger, was having difficulty turning over. A little loosening did the trick nicely. Unfortunately I'm no electronics wizz, so I couldn't say what the mod switch was intended for, only that it was wired with four cables, two going to the reverse/forward switch, and two to the main motor, if that rings any bells.
Anyway thanks again to all who replied, it seems like I now have a working R10. Nice.
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#9 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 08:32 AM

Hi Andries,

Thanks very much for your reply. I did exactly as you said, lifted the leather and opened up the side. A bit of gentle blowing and prodding inside got the motor running again! It seemed the motor at the top straight up from the trigger, was having difficulty turning over. A little loosening did the trick nicely. Unfortunately I'm no electronics wizz, so I couldn't say what the mod switch was intended for, only that it was wired with four cables, two going to the reverse/forward switch, and two to the main motor, if that rings any bells.
Anyway thanks again to all who replied, it seems like I now have a working R10. Nice.


Hm, then it is likely a direction reverser. Don't understand how that can work when then stop pins near the film gate are not swapped. Certainly a strong motor if can transport the film past the stop pin if the wrong one is switched in. :)

Still, glad that it works.
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