Jump to content


Photo

New Crazy Eyemo Q's.


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Paul Bruening

Paul Bruening

    (deceased)

  • Sustaining Members
  • 2858 posts
  • Producer
  • Oxford, Mississippi

Posted 12 November 2009 - 12:41 PM

Hey gang,

On the speed settings, will the Eyemo run on "inbetween" settings? Like, if you set the lever or knob between 8 and 16 can you get 12fps? Is the governor (inside, not the clickable knob or lever) notched or is it a variable thing within it's end limits?

Why do some have the speed control on the front lens board and some on the top-rear of the integrated mag? Which one is better? I assume the mag one since that's what they evolved into.

Do I understand correctly that it will run for about 50 seconds at 12 fps (38 ft.) on one winding?
  • 0

#2 John Sprung

John Sprung
  • Sustaining Members
  • 4635 posts
  • Other

Posted 12 November 2009 - 02:16 PM

I'm pretty sure it's continuously variable. I think they ran them with a tachometer and used that to make witness marks for the various speeds. You could just run the camera, starting at a slow speed, and turn the knob to see if it continuously goes faster. Going fast to slow might not be good for the governor, but slow to fast shouldn't hurt anything.




-- J.S.
  • 0

#3 James Steven Beverly

James Steven Beverly
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 4199 posts
  • Director
  • El Paso, Texas

Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:16 AM

I getting the impression you're still bouncing between the Konvas and the Eyemo for an inexpensive complimentary hand held MOS augment to your FrakenMitchell production package. For my money, the Knovas might be a better alternative simply because the glass available for a 2M is pretty new, made up into the 90s. You can get a 2M for under 800 bucks:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item4cebee9113

Hell, there was a set of square front anamorphics on ebay a week ago for 2500 bucks:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

the anamorphic gate (which is installed without tools and takes about 10 seconds) and de-anamorphic viewfinder (which installs wwith 2 tiny screws in about MAYBE 3 minutes) might set you back another 150.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEWAX:VRI

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item43981350e4

IF you go with a 1M turret Konvas, you can pick up a complete package WITH OCT-18 mount lenses (which are comparable to Schneider lenses of the era) also well under 800 bucks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item518d347581

The 6 volt motored Konvas KSR-1 can be had for even less:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item335737bdfb

2 piece OCT-18 mount anamorphic square front Lomo sets come up from time to time for about a grand, this one is a little pricey although it looks to be in great condition but it shows you what they look like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item4cebfbbedf

The negative, it takes a 16 volt battery to run the thing BUT an 18 volt Dewalt Flashlight can be turned into a nifty little battery pack be removing the head and adding a coiled cable to the leads and add a plug to the other end. so it's not really a problem. A Crystal sync motor is more desirable but the stablized motor will work for what you want to do. Thw 200 foot mags usually come with the Russian cores or you can pick them up at Raf's site or buy Rafcamera's core adapters which will allow you to use standard Kodak cores and load 170 ft loads into the MAG ONLY so you don't have to tread the camera. You just slap in a new mag and keep on rockin' and the 200 ft mags are cheap REALLY cheap, 25 to 50 bucks each :

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item22f770e1f3

400 ft mags (which will handle Kodak core without an adapter) go for 50 to 100 bucks each:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item5ad4ad3bb9

The Little Konvas is very light and tough as a Soviet T-34 BUT if you are determined to buy American here is a real nice Eyemo with a Nikon mount which wiill give you better glass:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item1e5912addb

Edited by James Steven Beverly, 13 November 2009 - 01:20 AM.

  • 0

#4 James Steven Beverly

James Steven Beverly
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 4199 posts
  • Director
  • El Paso, Texas

Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:24 AM

OOORRRR you might consider this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item518d347406
  • 0

#5 Robert Houllahan

Robert Houllahan
  • Sustaining Members
  • 1582 posts
  • Industry Rep
  • Providence R.I.

Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:48 AM

I'm pretty sure it's continuously variable. I think they ran them with a tachometer and used that to make witness marks for the various speeds. You could just run the camera, starting at a slow speed, and turn the knob to see if it continuously goes faster. Going fast to slow might not be good for the governor, but slow to fast shouldn't hurt anything.
-- J.S.



It is continuously variable on mine which has the speed control o the top and not the front, you can even do some crude ramps with it...

-Rob-
  • 0

#6 Hal Smith

Hal Smith
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2280 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • OKC area

Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:20 PM

You might think about an earlier Arri 2. A decent looking small 2B kit went for less than $500 a couple of weeks ago. The advantage of an Arri would be the huge range of motors, tripod heads, etc. available, all of which are starting to go for cheaper and cheaper prices. Only good quality lenses like Cooke SPII/III's and Zeiss seem to be holding their value.
  • 0

#7 K Borowski

K Borowski
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 3905 posts
  • Camera Operator
  • I.A.T.S.E. Local # 600 Eastern Region

Posted 13 November 2009 - 02:30 PM

Hal: Has the effect of the RED on the 35mm glass market finally started to wear off?
  • 0

#8 Hal Smith

Hal Smith
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2280 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • OKC area

Posted 14 November 2009 - 07:33 PM

Hal: Has the effect of the RED on the 35mm glass market finally started to wear off?


I follow older Cooke glass somewhat but not Zeiss. What I've noticed is the eBay dealers are now asking $1200 or so for the average SPII/III lens. Most lenses being sold by individuals go for maybe one-third to half of that. I haven't seen a 100mm Deep Field Panchro go for less than $1K for a year or so. I didn't get around to buying one when they were still $500 or so...darn!

It would be interesting to know how many adapters to PL for those lenses Les Bosher has been selling. As opposed to all the cheap asian adapters on eBay for Arri standard to PL, Les' adapters work with internal focusing lenses like Cooke SP's. If the Cookes being sold are going on RED's I'd expect Les to be selling a lot of his adapters.
  • 0

#9 K Borowski

K Borowski
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 3905 posts
  • Camera Operator
  • I.A.T.S.E. Local # 600 Eastern Region

Posted 14 November 2009 - 09:16 PM

Thank you for the follow-up info., Hal.

Good to know.
  • 0

#10 James Steven Beverly

James Steven Beverly
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 4199 posts
  • Director
  • El Paso, Texas

Posted 15 November 2009 - 01:35 AM

It's been killin' OCT-19 mount Lomos. Any decent Lomo from the late 80s or early 90s is almost sure to be in PL mount, IF you can find them any more, at an amazingly inflated price, going for nearly what a comparable Ziess or Cooke will go for.
  • 0

#11 James Steven Beverly

James Steven Beverly
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 4199 posts
  • Director
  • El Paso, Texas

Posted 20 November 2009 - 02:59 AM

The negative, it takes a 16 volt battery to run the thing BUT an 18 volt Dewalt Flashlight can be turned into a nifty little battery pack be removing the head and adding a coiled cable to the leads and add a plug to the other end. so it's not really a problem.


I don't know what I was thinking here, The EP17 crystal sync motor runs on 12 volts not 16 volts and the 12 volt Dewalt batteries will run it in this same flashlight configuration but the 14.4 battery belts will also run it fine (make sure to check the leads) 16 volts have the potential to burn up the electronics especially the old Russian electronics. the EP15 stabilized motor runs on 14 volts so the 14.4 battery belts will run it as well. I noticed my mistake when I re-read this thread and just wanted to make that correction in case someone read it who is not famillar with the Konvas BTW, the KINOR 35 is the camera that runs on 16 volts and will run on a 18 volt battery. Sorry for the screw up. I shouldn't write when I'm tired. :rolleyes:

Edited by James Steven Beverly, 20 November 2009 - 03:03 AM.

  • 0

#12 Robert Houllahan

Robert Houllahan
  • Sustaining Members
  • 1582 posts
  • Industry Rep
  • Providence R.I.

Posted 20 November 2009 - 02:08 PM

Here is a factoid for your Eyemo considerations I just shot a full eyemo daylight spool. I wound the film right to the top of the spool and it seems to be just about 130 feet. I set the NCS Intervalometer to run 85 sec of film which is 127.5 feet and there was enough film left over to thread the camera and the spool had not run out at the end of the day so I ran the camera at 6fps for a second or two to spool it out.

Hope this helps...

-Rob-
  • 0


Glidecam

Technodolly

Ritter Battery

Abel Cine

FJS International, LLC

Rig Wheels Passport

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Metropolis Post

rebotnix Technologies

CineLab

Opal

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

CineTape

Paralinx LLC

Wooden Camera

Tai Audio

Aerial Filmworks

Willys Widgets

Visual Products

The Slider

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Aerial Filmworks

rebotnix Technologies

Wooden Camera

Metropolis Post

Abel Cine

Opal

Rig Wheels Passport

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Glidecam

Paralinx LLC

Tai Audio

FJS International, LLC

Ritter Battery

CineLab

CineTape

The Slider

Willys Widgets

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Technodolly

Visual Products

Gamma Ray Digital Inc