Jump to content


Photo

Camera Testing


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 Graham Murphy

Graham Murphy

    New

  • Basic Members
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Film Loader

Posted 23 January 2010 - 02:04 PM

Hi All,

I'm about to start testing for a drama using the Red. I'm just wondering what tests should I need to carry out - Lens tests, etc.? This is my first time where I have extensive testing with the camera. Is it different from normal prepping with a film camera? I look forward to your advice.

Thanks in advance.


Graham
  • 0

#2 Markus Rave

Markus Rave
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 103 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Frankfurt, Germany

Posted 24 January 2010 - 10:13 AM

In my eyes you test just as you would do with a filmstock. Since there are so many options, see what you will get with the camera. Especially the shoulder mount would be worth spending some time with. I am using an ARRI plate and be comfortable with what a rental can supply. Make sure you have something else on set beside the Red monitor with a larger viewing angle. Check you have an Element Technica EVF mount or something sturdy. Red provides only a Noga arm and this will not hold the EVF. You may find a workaround using two arms which I did in the beginning but it is not the best solution. The EVF is heavy and may come loose. The Red is a heavy camera. Make sure you have enough CF 16GB cards. The RAID ist heavy too and that adds. Also the dropframe problem will be minimized using CF.

For exposure work with the internal help, especially the false colors and the waveform are a good tool to decide whether you have proper exposure in the part you desire. I use my light meter 320 ISO during the day and 200 ISO during nicht shoots as a good starting point. You will find that the Red responds nicely doing so. Later check detail with false color and/or waveform.

A must is a DIT on set. It is desireable to have someone with good knowledge of postpro processes the check for focus and exposure when you feel insecure. Prep with him to know what to expect and how communication works with the both of you.

Good shooting

Markus
  • 0

#3 Jay Oxley

Jay Oxley
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • London, England

Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:13 AM

Hi,

I don't know how much help this is going to be but I did a small amount of work testing out the power draw on the RED a little while back. When it comes to playback try and avoid doing so with the camera plugged into the mains adapter as most sockets cannot issue enough power in order to playback smoothly.

For safety I'd ensure you have enough batteries in order to playback efficiently if you do need to.

As Markus mentioned the internal help does what it says on the tin, a great little feature the RED has.

Hope all goes well.

Jay
  • 0

#4 John Sprung

John Sprung
  • Sustaining Members
  • 4635 posts
  • Other

Posted 27 January 2010 - 03:23 PM

When it comes to playback try and avoid doing so with the camera plugged into the mains adapter as most sockets cannot issue enough power in order to playback smoothly.


That sounds more likely to be an issue with the adapter than the mains. The Red is supposed to draw about 75 Watts IIRC, and typical mains circuits are good for at least 1500 Watts. It could be as simple as a connector somewhere not making good contact.





-- J.S.
  • 0

#5 Markus Rave

Markus Rave
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 103 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Frankfurt, Germany

Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:38 AM

That sounds more likely to be an issue with the adapter than the mains. The Red is supposed to draw about 75 Watts IIRC, and typical mains circuits are good for at least 1500 Watts. It could be as simple as a connector somewhere not making good contact.





-- J.S.


I guess it´s more like 90 Watts. Very hungry anyway. I had an adapter built covering 150 Watts and that just does the job fine. Paid under 50 USD and just had a 4 pin installed in the metal box. Gives you some reserve running other gear as well beside the Red.
  • 0

#6 James Martin

James Martin
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 227 posts
  • Cinematographer

Posted 12 February 2010 - 04:35 AM

Just a precaution I do these days on many digital cameras, but especially the RED

Shoot a purely black (or very dark scene), static. Fully open the lens and shoot the scene so what is dark is genuinely dark (ie the whole picture will be nearly black).

Check the footage carefully in REDCINE, bump up the ISO if need be and check the image for any static noise, that is a pattern of noise which does not move between frames.

You should ideally only do this when the camera has had a chance to heat up. Bear in mind film sets can be considerably warmer than a nice wide open camera floor with not much on it...

I did a RED feature as AC and we had this problem appear, only came on when the camera got very warm. Oh, also make sure you're in 4K otherwise you're not seeing the whole sensor.

I'd like to know if anyone else has experienced this. We were told it was a problem with a board in the camera, not the sensor. Which I found strange.
  • 0


Technodolly

Wooden Camera

Tai Audio

FJS International, LLC

Opal

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Rig Wheels Passport

rebotnix Technologies

CineTape

Glidecam

CineLab

Ritter Battery

Metropolis Post

Abel Cine

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Aerial Filmworks

Willys Widgets

Visual Products

Paralinx LLC

The Slider

Metropolis Post

Aerial Filmworks

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Visual Products

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Ritter Battery

Technodolly

Rig Wheels Passport

CineLab

Tai Audio

Abel Cine

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Opal

Willys Widgets

CineTape

rebotnix Technologies

FJS International, LLC

Glidecam

The Slider

Wooden Camera

Paralinx LLC