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DIY telecine with t1i dslr


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#1 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 12:52 PM

Brief description of my setup for which I will post results from soon:

I was inspired by a slide duplicator. It works great.

I'm shooting directly at the film (projector lens removed, 15 watt bulb fitted in lamp house instead of 500 watt bulb) with my t1i/m42 to eos adaptor/extension ring/macro bellows/takumar 135 lens. It takes patience to set up but works great. You can focus down to the film grain. The analyst projector has variable speed so I can avoid most phase issues. I'm going to get a 105 lens instead, I'll be able to get a bit closer to the film and ditch the macro rings and just use the bellows. Minus the camera this whole setup cost me about $150, including projector.

I know the photo looks a bid ridiculous but it works.

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#2 Ari Davidson

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 12:57 PM

Brief description of my setup for which I will post results from soon:

I was inspired by a slide duplicator. It works great.

I'm shooting directly at the film (projector lens removed, 15 watt bulb fitted in lamp house instead of 500 watt bulb) with my t1i/m42 to eos adaptor/extension ring/macro bellows/takumar 135 lens. It takes patience to set up but works great. You can focus down to the film grain. The analyst projector has variable speed so I can avoid most phase issues. I'm going to get a 105 lens instead, I'll be able to get a bit closer to the film and ditch the macro rings and just use the bellows. Minus the camera this whole setup cost me about $150, including projector.

I know the photo looks a bid ridiculous but it works.


Interesting! Post a sample maybe?
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#3 Paul Bruening

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 02:54 PM

Looks like a realtime rig in HD. Have you set it up for high res captures? Looking forward to some images.
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#4 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:12 PM

Here is a link to some footage from my experimental system. I think a little exposure adjustment, and eliminating camera shake will make this a pretty good system.
The source film is on b/w reversal 4 years expired before i used it, and I had the t1i set on monochrome. I'm going to try it in color, I think it will work better. The film was shot at 12 frames a second with the actor moving slowly and the projector was running at 30ish fps.

Feedback and ideas welcome.



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#5 Paul Bruening

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:39 PM

Here is a link to some footage from my experimental system. I think a little exposure adjustment, and eliminating camera shake will make this a pretty good system.
The source film is on b/w reversal 4 years expired before i used it, and I had the t1i set on monochrome. I'm going to try it in color, I think it will work better. The film was shot at 12 frames a second with the actor moving slowly and the projector was running at 30ish fps.

Feedback and ideas welcome.



Hey Erik,

All I got was black screen on the Vimeo link.
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#6 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 06:46 PM

Hey Erik,

All I got was black screen on the Vimeo link.



Hmm,

I tried it on my, and a different computer, it seems to work fine over here. The first couple frames are maybe black. Or maybe you have some sort of codec/driver issue.

Any one else have a problem seeing the link?
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#7 Chris Burke

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:37 PM

Hmm,

I tried it on my, and a different computer, it seems to work fine over here. The first couple frames are maybe black. Or maybe you have some sort of codec/driver issue.

Any one else have a problem seeing the link?



No, I could see it and it looked fine. have you tried any color negative film? The reversal footage was steady but not that sharp. It may be because the original footage was old. I'd like to see more.
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#8 Paul Bruening

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 11:08 PM

The link's working for me now. Congratulations on your rig. Do you know what the light and dark rolling banding is from?
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#9 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 09:07 AM

Yeah,

The band is because The shutter of the projector needs customization.

To improve sharpness I need to stabilize the whole system and be able to fine tune the focus more easily. You can zoom in with camera to aid in focusing but the system has so much shake that its hard to touch it gently enough to be able to see what you are doing when you are fine tuning. I'm going to mount the whole thing on a unistrut base and attach a heavier duty tripod head to cheap xy bed for a drill press. Also a slightly shorter lens, like a 105, should help. I think anything shorter that 105 will bring the lens too close to the projector and I would have to start modifying it.


The link's working for me now. Congratulations on your rig. Do you know what the light and dark rolling banding is from?


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#10 William Fradette

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 01:47 PM

Hey Erik, I'm trying to put together a similar setup to telecine negative film and reverse it in post, do you think it could give me similar results? I'm worried the the image might end up as expected after the whole process...

Thanks
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#11 William Fradette

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 05:50 PM

sorry, of course I meant to say that I'm worried the image might NOT end up as expected.

I haven't found a way to edit my post, sorry
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#12 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:05 PM

sorry, of course I meant to say that I'm worried the image might NOT end up as expected.

I haven't found a way to edit my post, sorry



Hi William,

I'm getting some color negative processed this week and I'm going to try it. It will probably be about 2 weeks before I have results to show. I will post when I have them. The only Issues I can see other than solidly aligning the optics is getting rid of the scanning bar from the way the digital slr shutter functions. I think I can do this by modifying the shutter in the projector.

Good luck. Let me know how it goes.

I'm no pro and I'm just doing this for personal projects so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Erik
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#13 William Fradette

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 09:43 AM

Hey Erik! Any news on those color negative reels?
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#14 Erik J Lindahl

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 09:47 AM

Thanks for prodding me,

I just got some film back from the lab. I'll probably set it up and do it this weekend or maybe sooner.

Have a good day.

Erik

Hey Erik! Any news on those color negative reels?


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#15 William Fradette

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:26 AM

Nice!! Can't wait!
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#16 Boris Belay

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 08:28 AM

Hi Erik, Looks like you're well on your way to a decent home-built transfer ! A few tips, if I may:

Yes, get the lens closer. I you have a zoom lens that mounts on your bellows, use that to experiment and find the focal you need at a closer distance. And then, maybe look for a macro lens that will give you optimal optical results.

I use a cheap piece of PVC tubing to mask out the open space between the lens holder on the projector and the taking lens. Cheap-looking, but works well to avoid problems with stray light. Or you should at least find a long lens-shade for your takumar.

I bolted both parts of my rig on a single piece of wood so that, if they sake, they shake more or less together. And the whole thing is attached to a main wall of my studio so I don't get floor shake.

I was lucky to find a Fumeo T-C projector, so I don't have any phase problems at 25Hz (PAL) capture. Projector is two-blade, locked on 25ips speed from the factory. I shoot with a very good 3 CCD 1/2" sensor JVC lab camera, on which I adapted a C-mount (Macro Flange-focal distance, but that suits the purpose), then some C-mount macro rings and a good 50mm. lens. I set the aperture manually on the lens depending on film exposure (wide variations!). Then I capture in SD but uncompressed with a Black Magic capture card, and I get excellent SD results.

My next rig, and you should consider that too with your slow-speed projector, is to trigger frame by frame captures from the projector (low speed) to a DSLR with a Macro set-up like yours, allowing for excellent 2K or more frame-accurate transfers. Optically, the set-up is the same, and the trigger systen can be very simple. I experimented a while back with a computer mouse that I took apart, using a moving part on the projector to push the mouse trigger button at each new frame. Simple, but it worked well enough.

None of that is complicated, it just takes a bit of experimenting. But re-filming the film itself is the key to good quality transfers.
Cheers,
B.
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