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video to 16mm the dirty way?


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#1 Terje Luven

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Posted 18 February 2010 - 10:43 AM

I have a couple of slow motion clips that i would like to use in a project otherwise shoot on 16mm with a Canon Scoopic. Is it possible to play the digital files on a tft screen or an lcd projector and film this with the scoopic, or will I end up with a can full of flicker? The reason for wanting to do this is to get hte same grain an somewhat soft characteristics on the digital scenes as the rest of the film.

Is this at all possible?
Am I better of using a tft screen or a LCD projector?
Is there a recomended camera framerate (on the 16mm)?
Is there something else that i need to think of?

Thankfull for any tips or suggestions
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#2 Brian Drysdale

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Posted 18 February 2010 - 11:46 AM

You can shoot at 25 fps with a crystal controlled motor. However, I doubt it will match the rest of your footage, usually this just looks like video that has been transferred to film. If your film project in being mastered for video, I'd get the the video material matched to the film during your post production by the colourist or editor.
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#3 kevin jackman

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 11:36 AM

if you can do it the best way is a frame at a time. the kodak website had some info on shooting crt screens this way and i think exposure per frame was suggested to be 1/30th of a second. this made the image look best apparently
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#4 Oliver Christoph Kochs

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 11:57 AM

Yeah. Kevin, that's the way i do it. I have used 50d vision 2. Rather use a slight telephoto lens. On the Bolex i stopped down the 50mm to 8 and exposed each frame one second. I measured a grey on the monitor. Next I built a timer and connected it to the "next frame" key on an older keyboard. So the whole process with quicktime and camera was self running.
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#5 Chris Millar

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 03:08 PM

I've done single frame and yes, a long lens to avoid pin cushioning and other wide angle issues. Also shoot it in a dark room so there will be no reflections of ambient light on the screen - even the light coming from the screen itself will eventually reflect back onto itself in your average room so I'd snoot it off with black material also.

As for exposure, have it long enough to get more than a frames refresh worth - making it shutter priority after a certain point... Dial up full white, full black and %18 grey in photoshop and use a spot meter to find your f/stop, %18 grey will give a big hint at your base exposure and the difference between full white and full black the DR of your screen - you'd be wise to make your video top out at both these extremes and then push your film accordingly to make up for the probable lack of range compared the DR of the scene in a real world situation... If you have the stock you may as well bracket not only base exposure but screen possibly DR, curves/gamma and the amount of push also.

Only been up 10min, still bleary eyed - hope I'm making sense.
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#6 kevin jackman

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 02:11 AM

its slow but the way i think. nasa did their stills this way with voyager way back when. i remember ebing a kid and seeing these weird soft/sharp images of saturn and thinking how cool and different they were. they fixed a 35mm camera in front of a high end crt and get this...they did it witha super long exposure. the system was set up so the shutter opened and one pixel at a time xposed itself and moved down the line from line to line, top to bottem. apparently it was the best way to get the images. its cool to know. i wouldnt use an lcd screen. i would find a small hd crt.crt's are the ways to go with this one
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