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Manual Exposure for Nizo 6080


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#1 Robert Capria

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 10:17 PM

Manual Exposure for Nizo 6080

I'm going to shoot a music video with my Nizo 6080 on Ektchroma 100D. The location will be
on a baseball field between 2pm and 6pm. I have a UV Protection filter but no ND filters.
I know that with Ektachrome 100D you flip the switch from Daylight to Tungsten to dismantle
the built in warming filter. I've never used to the manual exposure on this camera but would
like to try without screwing things up. I suppose I can take an automatic reading with the
built in light meter and then change the camera to manual and lock it to that setting. Also,
I plan to frame out large areas of sky in the shots unless it's a wide shot. Please let me
know if I'm going about it the right way to get even better exposures manually than just using
the automatic exposure. You can view something I shot on the same camera using just the
automatic exposure, which I think it pretty good, but would like to do better.

Nizo 6080 with B/W Plus X

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#2 Jamie Frazer Noakes

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:15 AM

Manual Exposure for Nizo 6080

I'm going to shoot a music video with my Nizo 6080 on Ektchroma 100D. The location will be
on a baseball field between 2pm and 6pm. I have a UV Protection filter but no ND filters.
I know that with Ektachrome 100D you flip the switch from Daylight to Tungsten to dismantle
the built in warming filter. I've never used to the manual exposure on this camera but would
like to try without screwing things up. I suppose I can take an automatic reading with the
built in light meter and then change the camera to manual and lock it to that setting. Also,
I plan to frame out large areas of sky in the shots unless it's a wide shot. Please let me
know if I'm going about it the right way to get even better exposures manually than just using
the automatic exposure. You can view something I shot on the same camera using just the
automatic exposure, which I think it pretty good, but would like to do better.

Nizo 6080 with B/W Plus X


Hi,

I would do as you suggested yourself - use the internal autiomatic exposure system as a spot meter and then base your manual exposure on that reading. It is often best to work with the camera based automatic exposure system as it is calibrated to the camera and takes into account light lost through the lens for the viewfinder etc.

Your camera should be fine with 100D - I think it will automatically disengage the 85 filter - but just to be sure click down the filter siwtch to the bulb setting.

I can't answer your question about ND filter requirments as I've not used any of the new stock from Kodak myself yet. But from what I've heard watch out for bright highlights which could end up blown out.

BTW - you could answer the comment I posted on your youtube clip 4 months ago!

Jamie
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#3 Robert Capria

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 12:49 AM

Hi,

I would do as you suggested yourself - use the internal autiomatic exposure system as a spot meter and then base your manual exposure on that reading. It is often best to work with the camera based automatic exposure system as it is calibrated to the camera and takes into account light lost through the lens for the viewfinder etc.

Your camera should be fine with 100D - I think it will automatically disengage the 85 filter - but just to be sure click down the filter siwtch to the bulb setting.

I can't answer your question about ND filter requirments as I've not used any of the new stock from Kodak myself yet. But from what I've heard watch out for bright highlights which could end up blown out.

BTW - you could answer the comment I posted on your youtube clip 4 months ago!

Jamie


Hi Jamie,

Thanks for your insight. I went to a Pro8mm seminar tonight in NYC at the Millenium Workspace.
The owner Phil Vigeant was there. He said that Super 8 isn't so good for shooting on a tripod
since the transport of Super 8 through the gate shakes somewhat. However, some of the samples
they showed us on higher end productions were using tripods and dollies. He said that hand held
covers up some of this natural shake. I'm not completely sold on that because I would prefer
well composed shots with some internal shake over hand held most of the time. Also, I was told
by another filmmaker that I could zoom in on a grey card and use the auto-exposure and then
turn on the manual and lock off the f-stop. Would you concur with this?

Sorry about not responding to your comments on the B/W Nizo footage. I will go there now and
put up a reply. Since I didn't get any comments other than yours, I didn't think anybody was
looking.

Bests,

Robert
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#4 PaulIVX

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 06:11 AM

Here is a video of super 8 trix I shot; it's quite stable, most after digital satbilizing in post:



Dit you make a test film?; it's worth it. I found out my Nizo has to open one stop extra for compensating the glass and the prism; but that's only for when working with an external meter.

Paul

Edited by PaulIVX, 25 June 2010 - 06:13 AM.

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#5 Robert Capria

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 10:13 AM

Here is a video of super 8 trix I shot; it's quite stable, most after digital satbilizing in post:



Dit you make a test film?; it's worth it. I found out my Nizo has to open one stop extra for compensating the glass and the prism; but that's only for when working with an external meter.

Paul


Hi Paul,

Nice work on your film. The staging and camerawork looks more mature than a lot of
stuff I've seen on Super 8.I noticed Eddy Van De Putte's name in the credits. I'm
familiar with his transfer work "AviSynth" scripting colorist work --- he's really good!
Did he work on your film? How much does the digital satbilizing cost in post? The
owner of Pro8mm said that they have to crop a part of the frame in order to do
that -- if I remember corrrectly. If so, did you frame it so you could lose a little?

I did test my Nizo 6080 a few times just to see it's working correctly but never
made an auto/manual exposure test. There is a link on this page above if you want
to see the stability of the image. I was shooting it on a monopod.

I read that you lose about 1/2 stop of light to the viewfinder. I don't plan on
using an external meter until some time later. I'll probably just use a grey card
to take an automatic reading and then set it manually and add 1/2 stop of light.
Hopefully, that should work.

Bests,

Robert
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#6 PaulIVX

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 11:31 AM

Hello Robert,

Eddy wrote a program for me, for stabilizing. I've done it my self with that program and when having difficulties, he always helped me a lot. All for free. He likes helping. So if you are having problems with stabilizing, jus ask him.

I think working with the grey card should be fine. I would still recomment making a test film though, with one thirds of a stop over and underexposing, so you will know your camera well. Maybe you do already.

good luck with shooting Robert!

Paul
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