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the right choice


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#1 Lorenzo Berti

Lorenzo Berti
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 06:00 AM

hello
i will be shooting a short S8 film in the next few days and i need a help..

I own a nizo 3056 and some V3 200T i think i will not use the internal light meter for decideing the exposure but my trusty Nikon F$ camera and a grey card
Now the question is this, what ISO and Shutter speed should i set the nikon on?

I know that my nizo has a shutter speed of 1/43 wich is something in between 1/30 and 1/60.

i also should keep in mind that this camera has a beam splitter prism wich take some of the light (but how much?)...how do i compensate for this??
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#2 Lorenzo Berti

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 06:47 AM

...i figured out this:

i think the beam splitter reduces the light of about a whole stop
and that 1/43 is 1/3 of a stop slower than 1/60

i rate the V3200T iso 160 (T) 100 (D)

in daylight:
-settings on Nikon f4
shutter priority on 1/60 iso 64
in artificial light:

-settings on nikon f4
shutter priority on 1/60 iso 100
i will use internal spot meter setting to read the light on the grey card placed in front of the subjec and directed towards the camera

Edited by Lorenzo Berti, 02 December 2010 - 06:49 AM.

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#3 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 03:41 PM

...i figured out this:

i think the beam splitter reduces the light of about a whole stop
and that 1/43 is 1/3 of a stop slower than 1/60

i rate the V3200T iso 160 (T) 100 (D)

in daylight:
-settings on Nikon f4
shutter priority on 1/60 iso 64
in artificial light:

-settings on nikon f4
shutter priority on 1/60 iso 100
i will use internal spot meter setting to read the light on the grey card placed in front of the subjec and directed towards the camera


Don't make things more complicated than they are.

The aperture dial of your camera with a fixed lens is already compensating for the light-loss to the viewfinder. So just measure the light using a F4 or a exposure meter and calculate the aperture for the exposure-time and film ISO rating and all will be well. How could the camera expose correctly otherwise? How could consumers end-users use manual exposure if there was undocumented light loss?
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