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Sunrays coming through window


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#1 Christoph Wieczorek

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:27 AM

hey everone,

i'm shooting a commercial next week and i need your help concerning the lighting.

we are shooting in a villa, family is sitting at the table and eating breakfast.
i want a "golden morning look" with warm sunlight coming through the window (ca. 1m x 1m) and sunrays being visible.

my idea was to use something like a 4 kW HMI PAR and position it outside under the window and bounce it into a mirror (standing about 10 m away from the villa) and back through the window. then use a little bit of haze inside to make the sunrays visible.

but i have no idea if this approach will work. :rolleyes:

thx for your help and sorry for my english. :lol:


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Edited by Christoph Wieczorek, 18 February 2011 - 08:30 AM.

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#2 Adrian Sierkowski

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:32 AM

Why not just put the HMI itself through the window? Why the mirror bounce?
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#3 Gabe Spangler

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:40 AM

I agree. No need for the mirror bounce. Experiment with the different lenses, getting the right punch and spread you want. And you are correct, the haze is what will make the rays of light visible. If you want warm, you may have to gel the light with like a 1/4 CTO and/or white balance a little warmer. Good luck with your shoot.
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#4 Christoph Wieczorek

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 09:02 AM

i thought that i have to use the mirror to get more distance between the light and the window so that the light will become sharper and the rays will be more visible.

wrong?
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#5 JD Hartman

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 01:19 PM

Why bounce it? Because it's easier on the crew, unless your renting a Super Cinevator to put the head on. After a while, even the toughest guys get a little winded and frustrated dealing with a 4K on a Mombo-Combo. If your worried about losses, go for the 6K.
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#6 Andrew Wheeler

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 03:46 PM

Bouncing it from the mirror will also get the "inverse square" working in your favor and the light rays will be more evenly exposed across the room.
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#7 David Mullen ASC

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 04:04 PM

Bouncing it from the mirror will also get the "inverse square" working in your favor and the light rays will be more evenly exposed across the room.


Bouncing it off of a mirror will increase the distance of the light to the subject and sharpen it a bit, but if you can just back the light farther and higher without a mirror, you'd get the same effect without all the problems of the mirror, like the shaking.

You can also use a cluster of Joker 800 Source-4 Lekos, all with 19 or 26 degree barrels let's say for a mini-Xenon effect, the multiple parallel beams will hopefully look like the same beam being broken up a bit. Or get something like a 2K Xenon if it's a smallish window or you can live with it not filling the window. Here are some examples from my shoot on "Manure":

2K Xenon:
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Two Joker 800 Source-4 Lekos inside the room off camera right:
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#8 Mathew Rudenberg

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 05:22 PM

Why bounce it? Because it's easier on the crew, unless your renting a Super Cinevator to put the head on. After a while, even the toughest guys get a little winded and frustrated dealing with a 4K on a Mombo-Combo. If your worried about losses, go for the 6K.


4k par head = roughly 40lb, 4x4 mirror board = roughly 50lb...

also, a 4x4 mirror board has a larger surface area and is thus much more susceptible to wind. I saw one that had 5 ball busters on it blown off a 4 story building, it's path to the ground was interrupted by an 18k ballast - messy. Better then a person though.

If you're going up high with it make sure to secure it with tie lines.
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#9 JD Hartman

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 11:29 AM

4k par head = roughly 40lb, 4x4 mirror board = roughly 50lb...

also, a 4x4 mirror board has a larger surface area and is thus much more susceptible to wind. I saw one that had 5 ball busters on it blown off a 4 story building, it's path to the ground was interrupted by an 18k ballast - messy. Better then a person though.

If you're going up high with it make sure to secure it with tie lines.


Arri 2.5/4K HMI PAR, 46lbs plus the weight of the head cable dragging it down.
Matthews 4x mirror, 37.5lbs. including the yoke. Agreed, larger surface area exposed to wind.

I jumped to the wrong conclusion about the reflector. I was thinking shiney board, maybe a silver mylar covered board, not a 4x glass mirror. As far as tie lines, the head would also have to be guyed for safety. The mirror board could be repositioned with lowering it, that would make it my choice.
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