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16mm Film Viewer Editor Splicer MINETTE SIXTEEN (16)


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#1 James Harris Sr

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 09:24 PM

I recently purchased 16mm Film Viewer Editor Splicer MINETTE SIXTEEN (16)and do not any info about this viewer.

Any one have any info at all Replacement bulbs Threading instruction etc etc

I can be contacted through jassr38@gmail.com

Edited by James Harris Sr, 13 May 2011 - 09:28 PM.

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#2 Jean-Louis Seguin

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:10 PM

Can you post a picture of the unit as there are at least three different models that I know of and each has a different bulb type.

Cheers,
Jean-Louis
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#3 James Harris Sr

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 11:10 PM

Can you post a picture of the unit as there are at least three different models that I know of and each has a different bulb type.

Cheers,
Jean-Louis


I tryed to attach but message said it was to big. Give me a email address and I will attach and send to you

Edited by James Harris Sr, 13 May 2011 - 11:14 PM.

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#4 Jean-Louis Seguin

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:54 AM

I tryed to attach but message said it was to big. Give me a email address and I will attach and send to you




Send to:

seguin@alcor.concordia.ca

Cheers,
Jean-Louis
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#5 Jean-Louis Seguin

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 11:30 AM

I believe it takes a 6V 25W bulb single contact bayonet.

May be very difficult to find the exact equivalent.

Ideally, for best light distribution, filament should be FC8 type.

For illustration, see:

http://www.donsbulbs.../g632/f/fc8.gif

Like all viewers, threading is from left to right.

Good luck.

Cheers,
Jean-Louis

Edited by Jean-Louis Seguin, 14 May 2011 - 11:31 AM.

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#6 James Harris Sr

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 04:02 PM

Thanks for the info.

I just purchased the viewer and have not gotten delivery as of today !

From looking at the photos the film rollers and other controls appear to be more than simple.

What control does what and etc I guess finding a manual even a Zerox would be next to impossible which is why I am here.

My observation from all the searching I have done this unit is much desired for a desktop portable.

I bought this to edit and view a hugh box of 16mm film that I had professionly cleaned and made ready to be digitized.
This film is dated back to the 1940's through 1960 by a deceased Inlaw it has footage not able to be replace at any cost,
So I really need to be very carefull and not damage the film.
I bought some practice film to learn with.
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#7 Alan Duckworth

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 08:52 PM

Be very sure that your viewer does not put any extra scratches on the films. The best way to test for this is to use black leader, splice up into a loop and run it through several times. Look for scratches by shining a light at an angle to the surface of the film - and check both sides! Black leader can hopefully still be bought, but you can make your own by light-fogging some black & white 16mm film and then processing out. I am very glad to see that you resisted the temptation to view the films by projecting them - an almost guarantee of scratches and damage if not done correctly on well-maintained equipment.

One more point - I am assuming from the age of these films that they are most likely to be double-perf [that is, have perforations on both sides], but the later ones [after about 1955] may be single-perf. The issue here is that if you buy any older equipment [viewer, splicer, projector] that was built when only double-perf 16mm film was made, you will not be able to use it with the single-perf films.

Good luck with this project, preserving home movies for future generations is extremely important.

Alan Duckworth
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#8 James Harris Sr

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 10:18 PM

Be very sure that your viewer does not put any extra scratches on the films. The best way to test for this is to use black leader, splice up into a loop and run it through several times. Look for scratches by shining a light at an angle to the surface of the film - and check both sides! Black leader can hopefully still be bought, but you can make your own by light-fogging some black & white 16mm film and then processing out. I am very glad to see that you resisted the temptation to view the films by projecting them - an almost guarantee of scratches and damage if not done correctly on well-maintained equipment.

One more point - I am assuming from the age of these films that they are most likely to be double-perf [that is, have perforations on both sides], but the later ones [after about 1955] may be single-perf. The issue here is that if you buy any older equipment [viewer, splicer, projector] that was built when only double-perf 16mm film was made, you will not be able to use it with the single-perf films.

Good luck with this project, preserving home movies for future generations is extremely important.

Alan Duckworth





You guys are a wealth of information for person with no knowledge in this film world.

Now put me in the digital world and I do above average produceing video for this family history production I am making.
I am 72 years old and not in the best of health. I traced my family history back to 1700's in England and want to set down what I know to record and started this project.
When a generation dies a ton of information history etc is lost forever.
This 16mm and 8mm and super8mm is important parts of this older history.


I have double checked the 16mm film and it is all double perf if I understand the term correctly means film has holes on both edges for the film to track on the projectors sprocket
I found a source for black leader and will ordered it Monday.

I sure hope somebody out there reads this and knows of a instruction manual.

Reposting my email contact....... jassr39@gmail.com

Again thanks to you folks that have answered my plea

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#9 James Harris Sr

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 08:01 AM

I went into my photo program and split up the large image into small images this view is looking into the mechanics useiung zoom you can get a good view.

Isee 2 controls on the front ??? purpose of each.

it appears to have onlt one sprocket how does that effect my use of double perf ?

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#10 Alan Duckworth

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 07:01 PM

Running double-perf film through single-perf equipment is not normally a problem - the exception to this is with optical sound projectors, because the second set of perfs is located where the soundtrack would be on single-perf film. No actual damage to film or projector - just be sure to turn down the amplifier.

However, running single-perf film through equipment built only for double-perf film will cause severe damage to the film, and potentially also to the equipment, as there is no second row of perforations for the second set of sprockets to engage into, thereby causing the film to jam.

Wish I could help you with the Viewer manual, I use a Zeiss Moviscop viewer which is somewhat different. It appears from the photos that the film is laid in emulsion side down, and then the upper piece snaps down on it to hold it in place. The silver knobs are unlabelled, but I'll go with one as the focus knob, and the other as the on/off switch for the lamp [assuming there isn't one on the back of the unit]. The triangle-shaped piece of chrome will most likely be the frame marker [punches a small hole in the film to mark frames for editing purposes] - don't use this, as it damages the film. If you need to mark frames use a white or yellow china marker [available from art stores]. The other small chrome lever is likely to be the framer - or it could be the focus control, in which case a silver knob would be the framer!

Your photo does not show if you have a set of rewinds to use with the viewer. If you have no idea what I am talking about, then I'll bet you don't have them. Google "film rewinds" for more info.
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#11 James Harris Sr

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:27 PM

Running double-perf film through single-perf equipment is not normally a problem - the exception to this is with optical sound projectors, because the second set of perfs is located where the soundtrack would be on single-perf film. No actual damage to film or projector - just be sure to turn down the amplifier.

However, running single-perf film through equipment built only for double-perf film will cause severe damage to the film, and potentially also to the equipment, as there is no second row of perforations for the second set of sprockets to engage into, thereby causing the film to jam.

Wish I could help you with the Viewer manual, I use a Zeiss Moviscop viewer which is somewhat different. It appears from the photos that the film is laid in emulsion side down, and then the upper piece snaps down on it to hold it in place. The silver knobs are unlabelled, but I'll go with one as the focus knob, and the other as the on/off switch for the lamp [assuming there isn't one on the back of the unit]. The triangle-shaped piece of chrome will most likely be the frame marker [punches a small hole in the film to mark frames for editing purposes] - don't use this, as it damages the film. If you need to mark frames use a white or yellow china marker [available from art stores]. The other small chrome lever is likely to be the framer - or it could be the focus control, in which case a silver knob would be the framer!

Your photo does not show if you have a set of rewinds to use with the viewer. If you have no idea what I am talking about, then I'll bet you don't have them. Google "film rewinds" for more info.



FIRST OF THANKS AGAIN.

Term "emulsion side down" means the shinny side if I remember correctly.

I have a set of rewinds and I have done several reels of 8mm already. I was lucky enough to find a portable hot splicer, 8mm 16mm splicer that appears almost new it looks like it was just removed from a new box.
It is a Maier-Hancock Model 816 16-8mm It works very well and I did a lot of practice film before spliceing any film.

I have several other questions.......

My film is all kodak film, what type of film is kodak for choice of glue and leader Etc? or does it make no difference ?

I noticed suppliers list different types of leader composition.

Is the black leader ok to use for leader for all my reels?

I have a motorized DUAL 8mm/super8mm viewer exactly like the viewer I have been using, I can modify the parts viewer by machineing some parts (Ihave a lathe and milling machine) adapting it to this viewer (Minette)
I bought it for a parts unit for my viewer I have been useing, and when this project film editing prep for digitizing is complete I will most likely sell all the viewers splicer etc. You can feed the film through the viewer very slow frame by frame or speed it up to a projector speed. I see no reason why it cannot work the same on 16mm viewer.

My skills come from my years as a scratch model builder about 50 years. I have machined and built my own engines when we was pylon raceing with R/C models

Well I am rambling so I will get out of here for now.

Oldman Jim
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#12 Alan Duckworth

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 10:00 PM

Good about the rewinds and splicer - sounds like you are well organized. Have you tried the 16mm reels on the rewinds? Not all 8mm rewinds can handle the larger 16mm reels, or even fit the hub keyway of the 16mm reel.

The emulsion side is duller, the base side is shiny. In the case of Kodachrome, both sides are "shiny", but the emulsion side looks "etched" when you view it from the side.

In the time frame of your movies, the filmstock would all be acetate base, so if you are using cement to splice them with then you need a leader that is also acetate base. A lot of leader is polyester base which must be spliced with tape, even to attach to acetate film. Make sure your supplier specifies the base material. Black leader is normally used only at the end of a reel [technically therefore it should be called "trailer" not "leader"!] to prevent a blast of white light from the projector. If you splice together some shorter lengths of film to fill up a larger reel, black leader is also used for that purpose for the same reason. White [or some other colour] leader is used at the beginning of the reel [called the "head"], primarily because it can be easily written on for identification purposes [use a fine point black Sharpie].

Just a note, people who archive film professionally often don't like to use leader at all because of its varying chemical composition, and prefer to simply use raw filmstock that matches the film as leader and trailer.
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#13 Rudy Velez Jr

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Posted 23 January 2016 - 04:51 PM

i recently purchased one of these was wondering if anybody had a manual online>?


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#14 Charlie Peich

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Posted 23 January 2016 - 09:04 PM

Greetings Rudy....

 

Contact this forum member: Erkan Umut

 

 

In this link: http://www.cinematog...showtopic=39649  he states..

 

I have one complete set of gray-colored Minette SIXTEEN editor with the Minette DELUXE manual-operated Rewinder, which is an excellent product. I also have a black-colored Minette EIGHT editor/viewer. SIXTEEN is very rare though! Try the Japanese auction sites with translation... 

 

He should be able to answer your questions about using your Minette and what bulb it takes. Possibly he has a manual. 

 

I've known Erkan for any years. He has amassed a vast collection of paper on cinemachinery. We have shared paper over the years. He's a great guy and is willing to pass on any info he has to forum members.

 

​I use a Moviscop and a Moviola M-50 for 16mm.

 

Charlie

 

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#15 Erkan Umut

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 12:19 PM

OMG, it's so nice to hear from Charlie again!!!

 

The lamp is 6V 10W.

 

A photo tutorial will be posted soon...


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#16 Erkan Umut

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 02:23 PM

minette161.jpg

 

minette162.jpg

 

minette163.jpg

 

minette164.jpg

 

minette165.jpg

 

minette166.jpg

 

minette167.jpg


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#17 Rudy Velez Jr

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 10:50 PM

Wow!

My sincerest gratitude cannot be expressed by my words.

Thank you gentlemen for passing along your scholarship of this machinery.


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#18 Rudy Velez Jr

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 10:51 PM

I have a moviskop that needs to be fixed. How is the Magnasync 16mm viewer? I her tell of how superior it is to all other viewers.


Edited by Rudy Velez Jr, 29 January 2016 - 10:51 PM.

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