Processing Tri X (7266) as negative having only HC110 or TMAX at hand... and a Morse G3.
Posted 30 May 2011 - 08:47 PM
Well... I'm a bit of in a problem here... I live in Mexico and it is getting quite hard to find the chemics necessary for the following process:
100' of Tri X (7266), reversal film, to hand process @ home with an old suffering Morse G3. I understand that the idea of processing this film to have a positive result, would be nearly impossible nowadays and having limited access to "strange" chemicals.
So... for now, I'm only able to get HC-110 or TMAX. What would you suggest? What would be the implications on using one or another developer?
One other thing... I've been looking on the Internet but so far, I haven't found conclusive information on steps and processing this film on a Morse G3.
Can anyone help?
Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:29 PM
as for the tmax kit im gonna watch the post and see what you get back. ill add in that ive heard it thins the negative. but the inet is full of what people have heard. im ready to order chems, ive got 4 rolls awaiting processing right now. i decided that i am adding too much grain by processing my 7266 and 7265 as neg and would like to just do reversal. thats the decision that keeps me from feeling bad about not wanting to pay for lab contacts, one lites, or my own JK.
Posted 09 July 2011 - 10:12 PM
Posted 09 July 2011 - 10:19 PM
Posted 09 July 2011 - 11:11 PM
Be sure to use the correct film speed. For some reason, processing neg as reversal and reversal as neg BOTH WAYS produce loss in speed (you would think one way it would cause a GAIN in speed).
TEST with a grey card; if you can get access to a densitometer and shoot it full frame, it should read in the 0.60 to 0.90 range, forget the exact figure for B&W neg. Will look it up for you.
Any lab with a transmission densitometer can help you, as long as you shoot the grey card filling up basically the whole frame. Then you can be CERTAIN to get the correct development time.
The only three steps you NEED in the tank are DEVELOPMENT, STOP BATH, AND FIXER. You have the developer, you can use vinegar from the grocery store as stop bath, and you want a HARDENING FIXER.
Then I think 5 minutes wash, some sort of archival wash aid if you want to shorten wash time (otherwise it is an entire hour), another minute wash to remove wash aid, and a wetting agent to prevent drying marks (like Kodak Photo Flo, but dish soap will work).
If you want to test to get perfect fixer times, it is, with a piece of the film you clip, doesn't have to be exposed, processed, TWO TIMES the time it takes the silver halides to clear. So if it takes say three minutes for the purple to disappear, fix for six minutes. Fix can be re-used, but times will go up as the silver builds up in solution; this reduces efficiency.
Make sure not to dump silver down the drain. Take it to the photo lab and they can turn the silver in for money :-)
I will see if I can extrapolate times for you, as I know D-96 is comparable to D-76 I can give you starting times for 20 Cels./68 Fahr. temperature.
Posted 10 July 2011 - 09:07 AM
Posted 10 July 2011 - 11:49 AM
You'll want to extend all these times, maybe have a prewash. The master on this subject is Martin Baumgarten. The 8mm metadirectory has all the information you'll ever need and then some. . .