Meter Reading for Digital.
Posted 09 January 2012 - 12:07 PM
"Has anyone else watched the 2009 camera assessment series? There was a section on light meters. All these DP's were setting the exposure of their digital camera (RED, viper, f35, etc) based on their light meter readings, and finding them to be a full stop, sometimes even two, completely off. The conclusion they eventually came to was that the light meters out there were designed to emulate the near-logarithmic response of silver halide film, and are more or less useless for setting exposure of a digital sensor. (adjusting lighting ratios on the other hand, that's a different story. Always useful!) They recommended to ALWAYS set exposure for a digital imaging system based on waveform, and histogram if you have access to such."
I often myself read the histogram to expose more efficiently prior to doing the eyework, although I do want to become more efficient at balancing the shots in the scene instead of tweaking settings in camera to expose, I wonder now if it is good practice to learn how to meter properly by biting the bullet and buying one or waiting until I can afford to shoot film or waiting to observe a more experienced DP in the field.
Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:08 PM
Posted 09 January 2012 - 04:54 PM
Nice one dude, gonna get an analogue I reckon to hone the skills a little tighter
Posted 09 January 2012 - 05:39 PM
Also If you can find one of the old Minolta meters, the IVF; it'll treat you well forever. It was my first meter before I gave her away to a friend.
Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:31 PM
I guess we need to start looking at Digital Sensors like we look at Film Stocks. I expose different film stocks differently based on personal experience with the stock. I know most negative film stocks will hold if I open up a stop or two and I choose to open up a little more when shooting faster stocks to help reduce grain in shadows and help with DI.
If a RED One MX sensor is set to 320 but needs to be metered at a 250 then that's where I'd start. I've personally done some tests and have noticed the RED One MX eats light like crazy... I open up at least a stop to compensate. The great thing about shooting R3D is the minimal amount of noise you get when adjusting ISO in post, so that can save your a$$ from time to time.
With that aside. Light by eye... start your metering to get the contrast and fine tune from there. A DoP paints with light, and knowing exactly light is hitting the film stock or sensor is our job.
Buy a light meter and learn how to use it! You'll never leave the house without it.