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Beaulieu 4008zm4 exposure with Sekonic L358


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#1 JayneAmaraRoss

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 01:31 PM

Hello!

I have a question about metering light with my new Sekonic L-538 for my Beaulieu 4008zm4 on which I had a Schneider 6-66 (max. aperture 1.8) mounted.

The beaulieu manual states that at 24f/s, I have to expose for 1/87th sec.

Unfortunately the sekonic will only allow 1/60 or 1/125 settings.

The cine mode on this meter is for cameras that have 180 degree shutters. I have read up on the beaulieu 4008 and apparently it has a 100 degree shutter so the cine setting won't work for me either.

How would you guys compensate for this difference? And how much would you compensate? 

All the best,

Jayne


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#2 christophernigel

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 06:14 PM

Hello!

I have a question about metering light with my new Sekonic L-538 for my Beaulieu 4008zm4 on which I had a Schneider 6-66 (max. aperture 1.8) mounted.

The beaulieu manual states that at 24f/s, I have to expose for 1/87th sec.

Unfortunately the sekonic will only allow 1/60 or 1/125 settings.

The cine mode on this meter is for cameras that have 180 degree shutters. I have read up on the beaulieu 4008 and apparently it has a 100 degree shutter so the cine setting won't work for me either.

How would you guys compensate for this difference? And how much would you compensate? 

All the best,

Jayne

Hello Jayne ,

If I was you' do some tests" , shoot some film in the kind of light you will be making the film in ! make  sure the battery  has a good charged , and play  !  see what you get ,

have made some nice films with this camera over the year's , used to swear by it , Then the Leicina special  came my way and have been in love ever

since "never looked back"

 

The camera a tool' its the hands and the eye that makes good Film" , Play play play ! you learn as you go on , make mistakes throw away the rule books as you go on ,

keep note's on what you do ,

christopher ,


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#3 Rafael Rivera

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:57 PM

Hi Jayne,

 

I have an L-358. I set it at 24fps and compensate using the iso button by 2/3 of a stop, i.e., for 200 iso stock (like vision 200T) I set the iso on the meter to 125. I then compensate further if I want to overexpose. Say I want to shoot 2/3 of a stop over, I set the iso on the meter to 80. I then take a reading with the meter and set the lens to the f-stop indicated by the meter.

 

I have also made the assumption that the f1.8 of the schneider lens is likely something around a T2.5. I simply make a note whenever the sekonic meter calls for anything less than an f2.8.


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#4 JayneAmaraRoss

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 04:35 AM

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies! 

I thought of perhaps setting my meter to 1/125 ( 2/3 stops less than my 1/87 aim right?) and then compensating by bringing my ISO down from 200 to 125ISO (equivalent to 2/3 more than 200...?). Does that seem logical to you?

Rafael: I'm really sorry, I'm not much of a technician  :( and I don't really understand the f. / t. stop difference. Could you please explain? I'm sure that I have a lot to learn from you!

When it comes to compensating for shutter degree difference, I feel a bit lost. So I'd prefer to work in photo-mode (which I can understand a little easier) and compensate either with the time or ISO settings.


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#5 Dom Jaeger

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 10:04 AM

If you're setting the meter to a faster exposure time it will give a reading that would overexpose the film, so you need to increase the ISO to compensate. In Rafael's case, he sets his meter to a slower time and decreases the ISO to compensate. 

 

A T stop (T standing for transmission) is an exposure adjustment to the f stop, adjusting for the light that is lost passing through the lens. The amount lost depends on how many glass to air surfaces (lens elements) there are and how good the coatings on those elements are at stopping reflections and light dispersion. Going by similar zooms from that era, the f/1.8 6-66 would be about T2.1, so losing around 1/3 of a stop.

 

The simplest thing then would be to set the meter to 24fps (1/48 sec), giving you a reading that would underexpose by about 2/3 stop, and with a further 1/3 stop in transmission loss, you'd need to compensate by increasing the reading one full stop. So with the meter set to 24fps you could either set the ISO to half its actual value, or just open the lens up a stop more than the meter reads. Easy!

 

Always good to shoot a test too, and like Christopher said, experiment with it.


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#6 Mark Dunn

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 01:45 PM

Hello Jayne ,

If I was you' do some tests" , shoot some film in the kind of light you will be making the film in ! make  sure the battery  has a good charged , and play  !  see what you get ,

have made some nice films with this camera over the year's , used to swear by it , Then the Leicina special  came my way and have been in love ever

since "never looked back"

 

The camera a tool' its the hands and the eye that makes good Film" , Play play play ! you learn as you go on , make mistakes throw away the rule books as you go on ,

keep note's on what you do ,

christopher ,

Sorry, but exposure is a matter of science, not 'feelings'. It's a basic craft skill you have to master before moving on to higher things. Film is too expensive to take a chance with.


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#7 christophernigel

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 01:48 PM

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies! 

I thought of perhaps setting my meter to 1/125 ( 2/3 stops less than my 1/87 aim right?) and then compensating by bringing my ISO down from 200 to 125ISO (equivalent to 2/3 more than 200...?). Does that seem logical to you?

Rafael: I'm really sorry, I'm not much of a technician  :( and I don't really understand the f. / t. stop difference. Could you please explain? I'm sure that I have a lot to learn from you!

When it comes to compensating for shutter degree difference, I feel a bit lost. So I'd prefer to work in photo-mode (which I can understand a little easier) and compensate either with the time or ISO settings.

Hi , From my understanding you are going to shoot kodak tri x  are you going  to reversal process the film or dev as a Neg ?

what is the camera meter reading and can you trust it ? do tests  ,  as there is not any or much forgiveness in reversal process you would need to get the  meter reading right , like still photography it,s the same !

It sounds to me that you really need to play with this camera and get the feel  for this" Baby '

As She is now at least thirty years Old ? and check that all is working well ,

 

Christopher ,


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#8 christophernigel

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 02:52 PM

Sorry, but exposure is a matter of science, not 'feelings'. It's a basic craft skill you have to master before moving on to higher things. Film is too expensive to take a chance with.

 

Hi , From my understanding you are going to shoot kodak tri x  are you going  to reversal process the film or dev as a Neg ?

what is the camera meter reading and can you trust it ? do tests  ,  as there is not any or much forgiveness in reversal process you would need to get the  meter reading right , like still photography it,s the same !

It sounds to me that you really need to play with this camera and get the feel  for this" Baby '

As She is now at least thirty years Old ? and check that all is working well ,

 

Christopher ,

That's right Mark ,

I am just a DIY man , 


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#9 JayneAmaraRoss

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 08:50 AM

And I am a DIY woman Christopher ;-) !

Thanks to all for your great replies. Dom and Rafael, you really saved my life! THANKS! I will set the ISO to 100 on 24f/s and go from there!

Best wishes to you all,

Jayne


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