Simulating Daylight from a dark set
Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:21 AM
Posted 06 April 2013 - 09:54 AM
Can you rig lights from the ceiling? Can you get a generator up there so you can use biggers light, how big is this barn? Pictures?
Posted 06 April 2013 - 11:06 AM
Posted 06 April 2013 - 01:42 PM
I'm guessing outside the rehersal studio for "Smash"? If so, it played quite well.
Posted 06 April 2013 - 03:02 PM
Thank you, David. A perfectly illuminating reply (if you'll forgive the pun) and that picture is worth a thousand words.
Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:58 PM
In this case, instead of bounces, the soft skylight is coming for Image 80 Kinos. Since the windows are frosted, we didn't need a backing outside of them but we did put some light bulbs on the backside of the set to illuminate the stage wall seen (barely) through the glass. In this photo, the window was off-camera so I covered the whole window with Grid Cloth and put a 9-light through it for a soft side-key but in most cases, the Kinos were enough light to create a soft window light in the room and get me up to an f/4, it's just that since the Kinos are mounted above the windows, the angle of light is downwards and doesn't reach across the whole room as well as the lights on stands could. On some sets, I've put the Image 80 rows on a motorized bar so that I could raise or lower them depending on how far I wanted them to dig into the room. The Kinos have the advantage of being able to be rigged with a mix of daylight and tungsten tubes for a cooler effect at a 3200K base setting on the camera. The downside is that I can't dim them fully up or down on the dimmer board, just turn off select tubes. The other advantage to the Kinos is that they pull less power and generate less heat on the set.
Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:17 PM
I am definitely not a seasoned pro but I recently did day for night in a power limited location and was pretty successful I think.
The room I was in had two normal sized windows. From the top of the window frame I hung two daylight fluorescent bulbs a piece. They were cheap daylight photo bulbs from china. They draw 45w a piece and are advertised as having a 250w tungsten equivalent output. I don't know if that's really true but they are bright. They just hung from a cord like the one you put in a china ball. Behind them on the window itself I put white seamless to reflect and even out the source. I put a big piece of light diffusion in front of both bulbs and had sheer curtains in front of that. This whole technique only works if you are ok with using shear curtains which means not really seeing out the window. For hard light coming through the window I had a 650 fresnel in the room with full ctb. Its output balanced nicely with what the fluorescent bulbs were doing.
If I remember right we shot mostly at f4 iso 800. I was able to get the most from the lights since the camera was basically looking straight at them. I wanted the windows a little blown out but you could probably not blow them and it would still work. I had the idea and wasn't confident it would work but I was pretty pleased with the results. I'm not saying do this exactly but I think you'd be surprised how little you really need to do day for night. You save a lot of power by having the camera look right at the light rather than a bounce.
Posted 19 April 2013 - 12:03 PM
I hate to be picky, but isn't that night for day? Day for night is where you make day look like night. qv. Truffaut.
Edited by Mark Dunn, 19 April 2013 - 12:04 PM.