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Where do I cut the ASA notches on a super 8 cartridge for CHROME 200D?

asa notches notch notching super 8 super-8 cut iso help chrome 200d

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#1 Harry Stevenson Miller

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 02:31 PM

I recently purchased a reloadable super-8 cartridge from Wittner and I'm extremely confused about where to cut the ASA notch.

 

I bought the CHROME 200D film which is Daylight: 200 and Tungsten: 50.

 

Please could someone tell me where to cut the notches for this stock? Or somewhere said something about not needing notches for daylight film? Im very confused. 

 

I have been trying to use this guide:

 

http://peaceman.de.w..._Tools_v1.0.pdf

 

But I'm struggling. Please could someone tell which notch to cut to on this guide?

 

Thank you!

 

-Harry

 


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#2 Joerg Polzfusz

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 02:46 PM

160asa daylight (as there's no 200asa in the super8-standard)
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#3 Richard Hadfield

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 03:00 PM

I recently purchased a reloadable super-8 cartridge from Wittner and I'm extremely confused about where to cut the ASA notch.

 

I bought the CHROME 200D film which is Daylight: 200 and Tungsten: 50.

 

Please could someone tell me where to cut the notches for this stock? Or somewhere said something about not needing notches for daylight film? Im very confused. 

 

I have been trying to use this guide:

 

http://peaceman.de.w..._Tools_v1.0.pdf

 

But I'm struggling. Please could someone tell which notch to cut to on this guide?

 

Thank you!

 

-Harry

 

Okay,  I'll give the really, really easy way first...

The easy way:  Buy a roll of AGFA 200D, which is available at Dwayne's or The Reel Image.  Use the notch on the cartridge that you bought as a template to make the notch on your un-notched cartridge.  The "retail' cartridge is notched for 250D.  The reason it is notched for 250D is because there is only two choices, a notch that slightly, 1/3 of a stop,  under-exposes (250D) or a notch that slightly, 1/3 of a stop,  over- exposes (160D).    There is no notch for 200D.  

The harder way:  Measure .3 of an inch from the center groove of the Kodapak cartridge.  That's where you make the cut to set the ASA at 250D which is probably the best for reversal film. 


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#4 David Cunningham

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 09:29 PM

After testing was completed at Wittner (and I believe Pro8mm) it was decided to go with 250 so that it would under expose by 1/3 stop as this is just safer... especially since most Super 8 cameras have auto exposure systems that aren't much more accurate than 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop anyhow.  So, the last thing you want to be is WAY over exposed.  You're better to end up way under exposed.  Way over will leave you with a bright white disaster.

 

Another thing to note is the large number of cameras out there that won't even read 250.  A lot will only go up to 160.  But, that's not much of a problem as long as the meter is accurate.  If you end up over exposing by a half stop, you would probably hardly notice.  And, if you do, it will be in some of the bright highlights.


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